Originally Posted by EdwardC
Originally Posted by WylieCoyote
Bought a Craftsman split beam for wheel work, but it's hard to be very accurate if you can't see the dial while you're torquing the nuts down. I finally marked the gage face at 100 lb-ft with a piece of tape, but seems like it takes a contortionist to read this thing while you're wrenching. Would work fine for torquing things down where the gauge can face you. I went back to my Craftsman clicker for wheels.
I think you're thinking of a normal beam or deflection type torque wrench. The split beam wrenches mentioned above work just like a traditional clicker where you dial in the torque setting by turning the handle. The only difference is that you don't have to unscrew the torque setting in between uses.
Thanks for clarifying. Now that I see them, they look like what I often see used in tire shops. Going to look into one....and get rid of both my existing ones. I think the Craftsman clicker is way out of calibration, and the deflection-style is too hard to use.
Originally Posted by WylieCoyote
Bought a Craftsman split beam for wheel work, but it's hard to be very accurate if you can't see the dial while you're torquing the nuts down. I finally marked the gage face at 100 lb-ft with a piece of tape, but seems like it takes a contortionist to read this thing while you're wrenching. Would work fine for torquing things down where the gauge can face you. I went back to my Craftsman clicker for wheels.
I think you're thinking of a normal beam or deflection type torque wrench. The split beam wrenches mentioned above work just like a traditional clicker where you dial in the torque setting by turning the handle. The only difference is that you don't have to unscrew the torque setting in between uses.
Thanks for clarifying. Now that I see them, they look like what I often see used in tire shops. Going to look into one....and get rid of both my existing ones. I think the Craftsman clicker is way out of calibration, and the deflection-style is too hard to use.