Which oil after kreen
- Thread starter gs300tx
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I'd run a dino oil after the Kreen treatment for a short OCI for a couple of reasons. The first reason would be any residual Kreen will come out with it at the next change. The second reason, odds are the Kreen will still be doing some cleaning and I'd want that junk out early. After that use whatever oil you like. JMO
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd run a dino oil after the Kreen treatment for a short OCI for a couple of reasons. The first reason would be any residual Kreen will come out with it at the next change. The second reason, odds are the Kreen will still be doing some cleaning and I'd want that junk out early. After that use whatever oil you like. JMO
x2
I'd run a dino oil after the Kreen treatment for a short OCI for a couple of reasons. The first reason would be any residual Kreen will come out with it at the next change. The second reason, odds are the Kreen will still be doing some cleaning and I'd want that junk out early. After that use whatever oil you like. JMO
x2
I third what the others say, but add: Please post some pictures. I'm dying to see the latest cleaner fad on BITOG, in pictures.
I like Kreen products in general, real nasty old fashion Chemistry that has a tendency to work.
Post some pics, ANYBODY!
I like Kreen products in general, real nasty old fashion Chemistry that has a tendency to work.
Post some pics, ANYBODY!
Pablo you know that proof is only required of Auto-RX, and compression tests don't count
I say call them at Kano Labs. 800 311 3374.
I called them yesterday after putting 1 pint of Kreen into 5 qts of very dirty, fuel diluted oil...after a 2 mile drive and 30 minutes idling, the oil was dramatically cleaner on the dipstick and white paper towel!?
I had to call and ask them how that could be?...I spoke to Joe, he said to me, "well i dont want to say that the Kreen is bleaching the oil but lets say that it has some amazing ingredients"
he advised me to persevere with the Kreen rather than using a can of "engine restore"...so im gonna put in supertech 20w50 and another pint of Kreen for the duration of this change interval.
That one of the great things about it, you can leave it in there and just run it.
Kreen has the power to dissolve the stuff it is removing, not leave "pieces" of it floating around in the engine.
Its the real deal Id say.
I called them yesterday after putting 1 pint of Kreen into 5 qts of very dirty, fuel diluted oil...after a 2 mile drive and 30 minutes idling, the oil was dramatically cleaner on the dipstick and white paper towel!?
I had to call and ask them how that could be?...I spoke to Joe, he said to me, "well i dont want to say that the Kreen is bleaching the oil but lets say that it has some amazing ingredients"
he advised me to persevere with the Kreen rather than using a can of "engine restore"...so im gonna put in supertech 20w50 and another pint of Kreen for the duration of this change interval.
That one of the great things about it, you can leave it in there and just run it.
Kreen has the power to dissolve the stuff it is removing, not leave "pieces" of it floating around in the engine.
Its the real deal Id say.
I am confused! I thought Kreen makes your oil dirty quickly because it gets all the dirt out. Somebody please clarify.
Otherwise we are back to old wives tales. I remember how engine running smooth and engine being more noisy were both touted as the proof of ARX cleaning the engine!
Let is agree upon a method to measure the results first.
- Vikas
Otherwise we are back to old wives tales. I remember how engine running smooth and engine being more noisy were both touted as the proof of ARX cleaning the engine!
Let is agree upon a method to measure the results first.
- Vikas
Not true!
All the engines i have used it on you would not want to pull the covers or do a mechanical compression test e.g Ford 5.4,Infiniti 3.5,etc.
All i can say is try it for yourself,you will see noticeable results on a dirty engine in 1K.I hope someone does take pictures and do the compression test.
Edit: The oil on the dipstick never got cleaner on the engines i used it on.Not saying it didn't i just cant understand why it would.
All the engines i have used it on you would not want to pull the covers or do a mechanical compression test e.g Ford 5.4,Infiniti 3.5,etc.
All i can say is try it for yourself,you will see noticeable results on a dirty engine in 1K.I hope someone does take pictures and do the compression test.
Edit: The oil on the dipstick never got cleaner on the engines i used it on.Not saying it didn't i just cant understand why it would.
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The color of the oil on the dipstick (or rather on the paper towel used to wipe it) changes quite dramatically depending upon the temperature of the engine. At least that has been my experience. The oil which looks nice and golden when warm seems to be lot darker when the engine is stone cold.
- Vikas
- Vikas
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd run a dino oil after the Kreen treatment for a short OCI for a couple of reasons. The first reason would be any residual Kreen will come out with it at the next change. The second reason, odds are the Kreen will still be doing some cleaning and I'd want that junk out early. After that use whatever oil you like. JMO
I agree.
Pictures before and after Kreen treatment will be the best proof of capability of the Kreen cleaning.
I'd run a dino oil after the Kreen treatment for a short OCI for a couple of reasons. The first reason would be any residual Kreen will come out with it at the next change. The second reason, odds are the Kreen will still be doing some cleaning and I'd want that junk out early. After that use whatever oil you like. JMO
I agree.
Pictures before and after Kreen treatment will be the best proof of capability of the Kreen cleaning.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
The color of the oil on the dipstick (or rather on the paper towel used to wipe it) changes quite dramatically depending upon the temperature of the engine. At least that has been my experience. The oil which looks nice and golden when warm seems to be lot darker when the engine is stone cold.
- Vikas
A BIG +1.
Also, you seem obsessed w/ a clean engine
. IIRC, this motor has seen plenty of ARX and MMO as well. You could run a syn to keep it clean, or run dino and maybe Kreen once a year or something.
The color of the oil on the dipstick (or rather on the paper towel used to wipe it) changes quite dramatically depending upon the temperature of the engine. At least that has been my experience. The oil which looks nice and golden when warm seems to be lot darker when the engine is stone cold.
- Vikas
A BIG +1.
Also, you seem obsessed w/ a clean engine
Originally Posted By: panthermike
. IIRC, this motor has seen plenty of ARX and MMO as well.
The OP has used auto-rx as well as MMO, maybe he can tell us his experiences with both products.
. IIRC, this motor has seen plenty of ARX and MMO as well.
The OP has used auto-rx as well as MMO, maybe he can tell us his experiences with both products.
Thanks guys,
I have not been able to take the valve cover of so any feedback I give here is just my opinion. I did notice cleaning on the dip stick when doing ARX and I would definitely feel the filter filling up within 400 miles or so. After I would chance them the car would feel much smoother, much easier to rev.
MMO, I think is a very gentle cleaner, cant comment on it even tho I have used ti for a while. If being replaced with oil, you will have to add oil again later on. The oil definitely get darker.
Kreen, is a cleaner I will probably stick with, simple to use, no harmful effects. I ran it for 2k the first time and the oil was dark, very dark. This will be the last time I go with kreen.
As advised I will go with a dino, run it for say 1500 miles or so and then switch to a high quality synthetic, I am leaning towards Amsoil.
Hope that helps.
I have not been able to take the valve cover of so any feedback I give here is just my opinion. I did notice cleaning on the dip stick when doing ARX and I would definitely feel the filter filling up within 400 miles or so. After I would chance them the car would feel much smoother, much easier to rev.
MMO, I think is a very gentle cleaner, cant comment on it even tho I have used ti for a while. If being replaced with oil, you will have to add oil again later on. The oil definitely get darker.
Kreen, is a cleaner I will probably stick with, simple to use, no harmful effects. I ran it for 2k the first time and the oil was dark, very dark. This will be the last time I go with kreen.
As advised I will go with a dino, run it for say 1500 miles or so and then switch to a high quality synthetic, I am leaning towards Amsoil.
Hope that helps.
Great experience and feedback.
I guess I'm just not sold on this Kreen yet. It seems like a powerful cleaner with some very strong ingredients and may be beneficial to some really sludged up engines as a last resort.
But for a routine cleaning, where there is just varnish and slight build up, maybe a less potent formula like MMO should be used.
Changing the oil and adding 1 pt to a full crankcase and driving 1K miles.....adding another pt of Kreen and driving 1K miles....and then adding another pt and driving 1K miles and then changing the oil.....seems like a lot of solvent to use for a basic cleaning at 3K miles. At most, maybe 1Pt added to the crankcase for the last 1K miles would be sufficient.
But for a routine cleaning, where there is just varnish and slight build up, maybe a less potent formula like MMO should be used.
Changing the oil and adding 1 pt to a full crankcase and driving 1K miles.....adding another pt of Kreen and driving 1K miles....and then adding another pt and driving 1K miles and then changing the oil.....seems like a lot of solvent to use for a basic cleaning at 3K miles. At most, maybe 1Pt added to the crankcase for the last 1K miles would be sufficient.
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