Which Michelin's for my Accord?

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I use the Michelin Defenders and they are whole new league of tires. The Contipro Contacts I had were fine, but the Defenders are really good.

Use whatever the manufacturer recommends. Many people say that H-rated tires are overkill for my car, but hey, the manufacturer uses them for a reason (that reason is the result of years of R and D). So don't listen to the people that will recommend you worse tires just because a "4cyl Accord isn't high performing"
 
The Premier only has 8.5/32 tread, and they're probably the most expensive, so I don't like them.

If you're going in a straight line most of the time, even the Pilot Sport AS3 will last long enough to keep you happy. My second choice would be the Primacy MXM4. The Defender would be my third choice, but if long tread life is the most important factor, get the Defender.

But if you can afford a second set of tires for winter, get the winter tires and get the Primacy HP or Primacy 3 for non-winter use.
 
This discussion is a perfect example of tire shopping.
It all depends on the personal judgement of the consumer to choose WHAT THEY WANT:

Ok, in a 225/50or45-18 size:

1. Fuel Economy and Horsepower Maxed: Michelin Energy Saver AS, ahead of everything, except maybe Ecopia EF422's are a close second and available in your size. In the size indicated, the Primacy MXM4 is at least GreenX for LRR.

2. Treadwear: Any 500 UTQG for the highest tread thickness.

3. Ice and Snow traction: Xice3, can run them year around if you want, long wearing high tech compounds.

4. Price: Get a Kumho in your size, cheap and often made in Korea, not quite a 3rd world country anyway! Avoid the cheapos made in Indonesia, China, etc.

5. Traction: Several options have "AA" high traction ratings, but check wet-weather ratings from Tire Rack too just in case.

Visit TireRack.com and order the list in a size by price, brand, etc...., and find out where they are made too.
Tire Rack's tests can help you whittle down a choice based on their relative spider charts, once you decide which attributes (1 thr 4 above)

Each has to choose our priorities, plain and simple.
 
Originally Posted By: TexasVaquero
I use the Michelin Defenders and they are whole new league of tires. The Contipro Contacts I had were fine, but the Defenders are really good.

Use whatever the manufacturer recommends. Many people say that H-rated tires are overkill for my car, but hey, the manufacturer uses them for a reason (that reason is the result of years of R and D). So don't listen to the people that will recommend you worse tires just because a "4cyl Accord isn't high performing"


Defenders +1, I have Defender M/S on my CRV and they are light years above any other tire I've ever ridden on including all other Michelin's.
 
Originally Posted By: Balrog006
Defenders +1, I have Defender M/S on my CRV and they are light years above any other tire I've ever ridden on including all other Michelin's.
Not available in size 225/45or50-18 needed for phishin's Honda.
 
I ended up putting a cheap Ohtsu tire on it. The Michelin's on it have about 6/32" left and with my driving, that's probably 30k miles. This tire should last that long.

$94 OTD and back on the road.

https://www.belletire.com/tires/detail/index/126685/ohtsu-tires-fp7000

I've never put a "[censored]" tire on my car before in a situation like this. I guess we'll see if my "plan" works out. I was half tempted to just buy 2 nice Michelin's and put on the rear and then next year replace the fronts when they are shot. But then I always have 2 new tires and 2 older tire.....and I just LOVE the feel of 4 fresh new tires, which I'd never have again if I started buying tires 2 at a time.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
This discussion is a perfect example of tire shopping.
It all depends on the personal judgement of the consumer to choose WHAT THEY WANT:

Ok, in a 225/50or45-18 size:
...
3. Ice and Snow traction: Xice3, can run them year around if you want, long wearing high tech compounds.
...
Each has to choose our priorities, plain and simple.


Braking from highway speeds on Xi3 (H rated) in summer temperatures does not feel comfortable.
Winter tires are not so good in wet too.
I would not recommend Xi3 for year round use, maybe except Alaska.

But your point that the consumer needs to pick what fits them, not well wishers and sometimes not so well and everybody else is very good.

Krzys
 
I think I'm gonna wait until "Black Friday" and buy me a set of new tires for my Honda. I have a TireRack distribution/sales center about 80-90 miles from me. I'll keep my eyes peeled.
 
Ohtsu tires should be fine. Bargains like Kumho's are. Sometimes the "value" attribute wins. (I had Fuzion tires a few years ago and thought they were very good, even though not the big nice name brand Michelins I favor.)

Ohtsu has been around a long time in Japan, and they know how to make a good tire. With all the mergers, I think they now know all the engineering methods needed, since Ohtsu is part of the Sumitomo/Falken empire, with some alliances with Goodyear for example.

Many people consider tire performance and quality to be worth whatever extra you gotta pay for Michelins, Bridgestones, etc. because the stakes are high.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Ohtsu has been around a long time in Japan, and they know how to make a good tire. With all the mergers, I think they now know all the engineering methods needed, since Ohtsu is part of the Sumitomo/Falken empire, with some alliances with Goodyear for example.

True. But because Ohtsu is Falken's budget brand, and Falken is one of Sumitomo's less-expensive brands... doesn't that make Ohtsu a cheap sub-brand of a cheap sub-brand of a second-tier tire manufacturer?

I'm sure they're fine, as in they can be trusted not to explode or anything. But I can't imagine they're very good.


Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Many people consider tire performance and quality to be worth whatever extra you gotta pay for Michelins, Bridgestones, etc. because the stakes are high.

Very true.

More than that, though, it's the cost/benefit ratio. The functional difference between the best tire and a cheap tire is night-and-day -- but the price difference, when compared to your car's total cost of ownership over the life of the tire, is usually insignificant. You'd have to have a VERY cheap-to-own car and be on a VERY tight budget for that difference to make more than a dent. I'm sure there are a lot of people in that position, and fair enough. But judging by the number of second-rate (or worse) tires on non-economy cars, not to mention many of the threads here, I think it's safe to say that doesn't account for everyone who goes for the cheap tire. And if you're comparing the best tire to a next-step-down "bang for the buck" tire, the price difference is even smaller, so the argument for thrift is even thinner.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Ohtsu tires should be fine. Bargains like Kumho's are. Sometimes the "value" attribute wins. (I had Fuzion tires a few years ago and thought they were very good, even though not the big nice name brand Michelins I favor.)

Ohtsu has been around a long time in Japan, and they know how to make a good tire. With all the mergers, I think they now know all the engineering methods needed, since Ohtsu is part of the Sumitomo/Falken empire, with some alliances with Goodyear for example.

Many people consider tire performance and quality to be worth whatever extra you gotta pay for Michelins, Bridgestones, etc. because the stakes are high.


I had a pair of mastercrafts on my old Equinox and they were awesome. They are the budget Coopers. Worth considering if you need "lower" end tires
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
I ended up putting a cheap Ohtsu tire on it. The Michelin's on it have about 6/32" left and with my driving, that's probably 30k miles. This tire should last that long.

$94 OTD and back on the road.

https://www.belletire.com/tires/detail/index/126685/ohtsu-tires-fp7000

I've never put a "[censored]" tire on my car before in a situation like this. I guess we'll see if my "plan" works out. I was half tempted to just buy 2 nice Michelin's and put on the rear and then next year replace the fronts when they are shot. But then I always have 2 new tires and 2 older tire.....and I just LOVE the feel of 4 fresh new tires, which I'd never have again if I started buying tires 2 at a time.

Did you look for a used tire in that size? Lots of Accords get smashed every year with good tires on them, why not get one of those? Also a single good (Michelin, etc) tire at used place is usually $25 or less installed.
I guess with ABS and stability control, putting the ohtsu on the front is pretty safe even if it has significantly less grip.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyIan

Did you look for a used tire in that size? Lots of Accords get smashed every year with good tires on them, why not get one of those? Also a single good (Michelin, etc) tire at used place is usually $25 or less installed.
I guess with ABS and stability control, putting the ohtsu on the front is pretty safe even if it has significantly less grip.


Oh yeah....but I couldn't find one. 225/45/18 is a tougher size to find. I don't live in the city, so I checked several local tire shops and asked at Belle Tire before I purchased new. No one had one.

The new tire is on the rear. It will be OK back there.
 
We have an Accord with Premier A/S with "V" rated tires, and an Outback with Premier A/S "H" rated tires. I actually prefer the "H" rated tires which ride a little more comfortably and have better snow traction in the mushy snow of SE Michigan and the drier snow of northern Michigan. Both are outstanding in the rain. The "V" rated tire turns and responds a little faster.

Both H and V versions are the best tires we have ever owned for our climate. The Defenders are a little hard and not the best on ice. CR predicts 80-85K life for the Premier A/S and 90K for the Defenders , so not much of a difference.

One very nice feature of the Premier A/S is the rain grooves widen as the tire wears down, reducing hydroplaning.

I would avoid used tires. Get fresh, new tires and you can get 6 years of use for the average driver before UV and oxidation weakens the rubber.
 
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
"Shorter life" means it'll take less time to get down to the wear bars. That's probably true. But even at the wear bars, an A/S 3+ will still work better than those other tires will with most of their tread.


I suppose you have evidence to back that up? I’d like to see it because I think it is hogwash.

I’m particularly interested in the “unexpected wet patch around a blind corner” on 2/32 A/S3 vs Premiers with most of their tread.


These test suggest this is true.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/...wears/index.htm

I wouldn't call it "proof", until a second party verifies it, but Id call it evidence

UD
 
To be fair, that test is on the Premier A/S. The claims I was making were about the A/S 3+.
 
Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
"Shorter life" means it'll take less time to get down to the wear bars. That's probably true. But even at the wear bars, an A/S 3+ will still work better than those other tires will with most of their tread.


I suppose you have evidence to back that up? I’d like to see it because I think it is hogwash.

I’m particularly interested in the “unexpected wet patch around a blind corner” on 2/32 A/S3 vs Premiers with most of their tread.


These test suggest this is true.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/...wears/index.htm

I wouldn't call it "proof", until a second party verifies it, but Id call it evidence

UD


That is pretty much the whole concept behind the Premier. Consistent performance through the life of the tire.

I don’t believe the A/S 3 has this emerging groove technology.
 
The emerging grooves are only part of the benefit of the Premier A/S. There's also 3D shaping in the tread so the siping still works at low depths, and a carefully designed tread compound.

The A/S 3+ lacks the emerging grooves, but has similar 3D shaping and an even grippier compound, plus their "Variable Contact Patch" construction, so it performs at a much higher level to begin with.
 
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