Which is "better" additive?

[poiuy223]

PU uses Boron
Castrol has Titanium and Calcium
M1 0w-40 and T6 have more Zinc
PYB is fully of Moly

Which is "better" and why? Not talking about oil. Those listed are just examples of what it contains.

 

[Ken2]

You cannot pick any one additive and call it better. It all depends on the combination of addtives the oil maker uses, and that includes the exact form of the additives. The real test is to look at the wear in the engines using the oils you mention. Used oil analyses give some insight to the engine internals.

In any case, all the oils you mention range from very good to excellent. I'd use a 5W-40 or 0W-40 "European" automotive oil for your turbocharged engine, not a home brew mixture and not an oil designed primarily for diesel engines.

 

[poiuy223]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
You cannot pick any one additive and call it better. It all depends on the combination of addtives the oil maker uses, and that includes the exact form of the additives. The real test is to look at the wear in the engines using the oils you mention. Used oil analyses give some insight to the engine internals.

That's what I thought too but then I see people commenting here saying "Oh it has a boatload of Moly, I like"...or..."I'm looking for an oil that has lots of ZDDP". I thought I missed out on reading material so I figured I'd ask.

 

[Donald]

Its the package, not any one item. Trust the higher quality oil manufacturers to use better additives and/or more of them. I would not focus on any one additive. And I would not add anything to motor oil to come up with an additive package one feels is best.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: poiuy223
That's what I thought too but then I see people commenting here saying "Oh it has a boatload of Moly, I like"...or..."I'm looking for an oil that has lots of ZDDP".

What can I say? This place is full of oil nuts. Some of them get excited over things for no apparent reason.

I agree with previous posters, it's not any single additive that matters, but a mix of various base oils and multiple additives as a whole.

 

[Phishin]

And absolute wear numbers in a UOA mean NOTHING. Some engines give great wear numbers no matter what you use....like a Honda 4-cylinder. You can run oil from a deep fryer in those engines and it's gonna give you a real nice UOA. Just kidding of course. (You have to say that on here)

Other engines give higher wear numbers no matter what oil or additives you throw at it. Some oils give lower numbers for these engines, but they are ALWAYS WAY HIGHER than the above mentioned Honda 4-cylinder, for example.

It's not the absolute number that matters in terms of wear numbers....but a comparison or trend of wear numbers in the same engine with different oils. And then to make it more complicated, not all engines of the same make, wear the same. Some give higher, some lower even with the same oil.

And to make UOA's even seem more pointless for determining how great an oil is when looking at wear numbers.....compare an engine that typically throws higher wear numbers driven 95% highway versus the same engine that's used to take kids to school and go grocery shopping (short trips).

 

[JHZR2]

How about read up some of MolaKule's white papers in the section on this site and see what each add does, and why. Then you can make a decision.

Sounds almost like you want which one sounds best, rather than which one might be the best option for technical reasons associated with your use profile and your engine.

 

[poiuy223]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
How about read up some of MolaKule's white papers in the section on this site and see what each add does, and why. Then you can make a decision.

Sounds almost like you want which one sounds best, rather than which one might be the best option for technical reasons associated with your use profile and your engine.



Originally Posted By: poiuy223
Originally Posted By: Ken2
You cannot pick any one additive and call it better. It all depends on the combination of addtives the oil maker uses, and that includes the exact form of the additives. The real test is to look at the wear in the engines using the oils you mention. Used oil analyses give some insight to the engine internals.

That's what I thought too but then I see people commenting here saying "Oh it has a boatload of Moly, I like"...or..."I'm looking for an oil that has lots of ZDDP". I thought I missed out on reading material so I figured I'd ask.

 

[JHZR2]

Read the technical and white papers articles by MolaKule and others on the topic. There is a ton. There are also 8 or more articles (really questions with some detailed answers) on additives in the question of the day section. here is one to start you off:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=530321#Post530321

 

[poiuy223]

Nice thanks! More reading to do @ work.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: poiuy223
PU uses Boron
Castrol has Titanium and Calcium
M1 0w-40 and T6 have more Zinc
PYB is fully of Moly

Which is "better" and why? Not talking about oil. Those listed are just examples of what it contains.

Calcium is not an AW additive.
All AW additives are good.
Moly is better than Ti, it's just more expensive. The more moly the better up to around 700 ppm (maximizes fuel economy).
99.9% of motor oils use ZDDP just in varying amounts.

Generally the more AW additives an oil contains the better although whether it's needed is very much application dependant.
That's why most say oils like Red Line are great but in practice are overkill or unnecessary.

 

[Maxima97]

Synthetic has better base oil compare to dino. Oil blender use additive to compensate this. So in your case, the M1 0W40 (PAO) is better oil than PU and Castrol (Group III) and much better than PYB (with moly)

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Maxima97
the M1 0W40 (PAO)

As was noted earlier, M1 0w-40 hasn't had much PAO in it for a while now, not that it matters much when it comes to its performance.

 

[poiuy223]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
PU uses Boron
Castrol has Titanium and Calcium
M1 0w-40 and T6 have more Zinc
PYB is fully of Moly

Which is "better" and why? Not talking about oil. Those listed are just examples of what it contains.

Calcium is not an AW additive.
All AW additives are good.
Moly is better than Ti, it's just more expensive. The more moly the better up to around 700 ppm (maximizes fuel economy).
99.9% of motor oils use ZDDP just in varying amounts.

Generally the more AW additives an oil contains the better although whether it's needed is very much application dependant.
That's why most say oils like Red Line are great but in practice are overkill or unnecessary.

Just the kind of reply I was looking for. Thanks CATERHAM

 

[MrRPM]

Are there any applications where some of these additives are bad?
Moly is said to be bad for wet clutches found in motorcycles and ATVs. not sure if thats true but I also haven't seen a JASO MA oil with moly in it.

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
PU uses Boron
Castrol has Titanium and Calcium
M1 0w-40 and T6 have more Zinc
PYB is fully of Moly

Which is "better" and why? Not talking about oil. Those listed are just examples of what it contains.

Calcium is not an AW additive.
All AW additives are good.
Moly is better than Ti, it's just more expensive. The more moly the better up to around 700 ppm (maximizes fuel economy).
99.9% of motor oils use ZDDP just in varying amounts.

Generally the more AW additives an oil contains the better although whether it's needed is very much application dependant.
That's why most say oils like Red Line are great but in practice are overkill or unnecessary.


This good post sums it up nicely.