Which FCP Euro oil for 2010 535xi (n54 engine) with almost 216k miles ?

I can only find it in 0w30 on FCP Euro's site.
BTW, the 10w60 used to pop on sale on a well-known site. Nothing currently, but it pops back from time to time. Would have gotten some if I had any use for 10w60. But that's beyond the point. I don't feel comfortable with w30 for some reason. I'm probably wrong.
Euro 30 are 3.5 HTHS and the Euro 40s are not much higher for the major brands.
 
Indeed, but the BMW branded one ends up still more expensive, and it simply appeals to me less.
 
Nope, will be done on the LM that will go out on the next change.
The previous owner was a great guy but mostly a mechanical muggle.

As for the 40 grade - yes, also what the Bentley service manual suggested back in the time. If the table I listed above is any reference, I'm not putting 30 in unless I really have to.
 
Nope, will be done on the LM that will go out on the next change.
The previous owner was a great guy but mostly a mechanical muggle.

As for the 40 grade - yes, also what the Bentley service manual suggested back in the time. If the table I listed above is any reference, I'm not putting 30 in unless I really have to.
Just go that Motul.
Also, if FCP does not work for you, Mobil1 0W40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, and Quaker State 5W40 are all excellent oils if not better.
 
Doesn't get much love here, but according to Rennlist and Lake Speed, it shows one of the lowest wear metals consistenly on UOAs for Porsches.
 
I just wanted to say there's nothing about having to send the exact oil back. I needed to fill half a quart so used some old oil I hadn't taken to autozone yet that had been sitting there for a year.
 
They do require the original bottle though, right ?
My indie had a laundry list printed pinned on the steering wheel, first thing was don't throw the original bottles away... Well - guess if I saw them back :)
 
They do require the original bottle though, right ?
My indie had a laundry list printed pinned on the steering wheel, first thing was don't throw the original bottles away... Well - guess if I saw them back :)
Yes they do. But if you car burned a quart somewhere then just grab a junk bottle of something and fill it up. Also they put a receipt of everything inside the box. That receipt also shows the shipping info. They called it an 8x9 box or something close when it was a 14x16" box. I didn't have quite the nerve to put their dimensions in but it let me know shaving an inch off each side was fine. I wanted to keep everything under $20. So for my $18 I put 7 quarts of Redline 5w30 in and a $15-$20 filter.

I know the oil can and is reused but I don't see how they make any money off something like filters. I'm not going to look a gifted horse in the mouth, though. It lets me try other oils I normally wouldn't, like Redline, because honestly I was happy with my QS Euro. But I'm enjoying doing the UOAs on different ones to see how things are affected and find which one the vehicle seems to like the best. So far the Redline is the smoothest sounding at 5w30. Better than the QS 5w40 I was running. On the stock 0w20 it sounded like a small tractor. I wrote and asked about switching to other oils and they had no problem with it so long as the original jugs come back full you get the credit.
 
I live not too far, so I can drop the stuff directly. It's not trivial, it still costs me a few gallons of gas, but there's an Aldi not far so at least I can spend yet some more money on junk food :)
 
To get to 200K, The car was on a maintenance schedule of some sort. Any lube stickers under the hood? At this point, I wouldn't try to improve, just keep on keepin' on
 
There's also LiquiMoly Molygen which already has their additives included and their leichtlauf which has all the approvals you could want. I've been running the Molygen in my 91 octane tuned 6.0L LS 2500HD farm truck with 231k miles. I like the bottles. Easy to recover the oil into. If doing short OCI it all works well. I have 12qts of Motul 300V in the garage I'll toss in the thing next. Truck spent about 200k of those miles towing gooseneck trailers and now I have a 116 gal fuel tank in the back and about 500lbs of other gear. Drive it hard everyday I'm out at the farm. Runs like it's new. The trick is just a quality oil and more frequent OCI. I feel Redline is the best there is. Haven't run the 300v yet. I don't do amsoil as I'm never aiming for 15K OCI. I do every 5k and honestly the QS Euro 5w40 has always performed amazingly well (I get UOI on everything). But with FCP's deal I order whatever I want to try next. I do like the Molygen a lot. I don't care about approvals, just performance. I can't get this truck to burn a drop of oil, the engine looks squeaky clean on the inside, and after the tune it runs harder now than a new one would. But I also believe in all those things many see as nonsense like doing engine flushes and fuel system cleaners. I found Stabil 360 Marine on amazon that I bought several cases of. Came out to about $4 a bottle that treats 80 gallons. I use it in everything gas since it has PEA in it. I wouldn't say it gives the "shock" treatment of others like BG44k but my engine has returned from the dead running it on every tank. Few months ago I couldn't pull my boat going 65mph and there just wasn't any power. 3k miles later of putting an additive in every tank and it acts like it wants to drag race.
 
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