When to change battery>

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Here in Florida, you are lucky to get more than 2.5 years from a battery, and New Mexico might be even worse for battery life.

I would take no chances, and get a battery ASAP.
 
Since battery costs so little (compared to anything else on the car which can leave you stranded away from the home) just go ahead and put a new good quality battery in it. And also teach your daughter how to notice any abnormality in starting the vehicle which can indicate charging problems.
 
Forty year ago I had a shop teacher who had a wife that taught hair care in the evenings at a local vocational school. Every year in Oct he bought her a new 12 month battery and sold the old one for $5.

He said the high month rated batteries were not much better but higher price to off-set the cost of replacing batteries that failed with coverage remaining.

I have found just removing the cables and cleaning connections well each Oct helps get more life out of a battery.

If I have one that is getting slow at 10F degrees (not normally that cold in the winter more than a few days) I will try to make it to the next winter season.

Just like tires getting the last 30% of life out of a battery can get expensive. We were 20 miles from home and the alternator died recently in the Blazer so I charged the battery at the office well and disconnected one low beam headlight and we made it home OK. It was a good thing the battery was not at the end of its life cycle.

Margin of safety is a valid concept.
 
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Forty year ago I had a shop teacher who had a wife that taught hair care in the evenings at a local vocational school. Every year in Oct he bought her a new 12 month battery and sold the old one for $5.

He said the high month rated batteries were not much better but higher price to off-set the cost of replacing batteries that failed with coverage remaining.

I have found just removing the cables and cleaning connections well each Oct helps get more life out of a battery.

If I have one that is getting slow at 10F degrees (not normally that cold in the winter more than a few days) I will try to make it to the next winter season.

Just like tires getting the last 30% of life out of a battery can get expensive. We were 20 miles from home and the alternator died recently in the Blazer so I charged the battery at the office well and disconnected one low beam headlight and we made it home OK. It was a good thing the battery was not at the end of its life cycle.

Margin of safety is a valid concept.

Selling the old battery for $5 may not be practical in all areas. Sometimes the core charge for batteries exceeds $5.
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
I don't trust any battery tester to give an accurate CCA remaining rating. The results can vary even wider depending on whether the place doing the testing can profit from selling you another battery, or profit by denying warranty claims.

I agree with fully charging your current battery. Most people act like the alternator is an instant magical battery charger but the fact is that it does a poor job returning a battery at 80% state of charge to 100%. Hours and hours of charging are needed to go from 80% to 100% no matter the charging source, and the closer the battery lives to 100%, the longer it should last.

So after any time playing the radio with the engine off or any other fairly significant battery depletion, the owner would be wise to use a plug in charger to bring the battery back to or near 100% and not just rely on the 'magical' alternator to do so, on their short trip to the store and back.

I've found some batteries that lived their whole life in the 85% range responded better, when discharged to ~ 50% then promptly recharged at a 25% rate of the 20 hour rate of amp hour capacity.

I am not a believer in the low and slow "trickle" mentality being best. I've taken Sg readings of such a charged battery and found them reading very low where as an automatic charger which holds mid 14's for several hours does much better.

Anyway Lead acid battery myths are likely to never die, as long as we use lead acid batteries.

In the OP's case, I would recommend doing a full charge monthly with a grid powered charger, and consider replacement come winter. At the minimum carry jumper cables, or a fully charged jumper pack when it does get cold again.

I have found my Northstar AGM battery to be impressive in terms of cranking power and voltage held under a longer slower discharge. But it is a very pricey and heavy battery and the extreme cranking power and higher voltage when discharging might not mean squat in the long run. Bragging rights only, perhaps.

Sears Platinum batteries are rebadged Odyssey batteries. They want huge recharging rates when deeply cycled. Just any plug in charger will not allow this battery to perform to its max potential, when cycled deeply. Users of these batteries, in deep cycle applications, need to be aware of this requirement and not just rely on reputation and a high price tag to reap the possible benefits of AGM over the much cheaper flooded starting battery options.

If an Odyssey battery owner every needs a jumpstart, they really need to find a charger that can feed a 100 amp hour battery 40 amps, until 14.7v is reached, then hold that 14.7v for 4 hours while the amps required to hold 14.7 taper toward zero. Not doing this, is dooming an expensive battery to an early demise, though it would likely still outlive a flooded battery given the same treatment.


I think a good set of cables is a better idea than a jumper pack battery that is left in a vehicle. The jumper pack battery will be of marginal value if it gets cold in the winter. Its good to keep warm around the house.

Better yet a Cummins diesel with 2 batteries.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Forty year ago I had a shop teacher who had a wife that taught hair care in the evenings at a local vocational school. Every year in Oct he bought her a new 12 month battery and sold the old one for $5.

He said the high month rated batteries were not much better but higher price to off-set the cost of replacing batteries that failed with coverage remaining.

I have found just removing the cables and cleaning connections well each Oct helps get more life out of a battery.

If I have one that is getting slow at 10F degrees (not normally that cold in the winter more than a few days) I will try to make it to the next winter season.

Just like tires getting the last 30% of life out of a battery can get expensive. We were 20 miles from home and the alternator died recently in the Blazer so I charged the battery at the office well and disconnected one low beam headlight and we made it home OK. It was a good thing the battery was not at the end of its life cycle.

Margin of safety is a valid concept.

Selling the old battery for $5 may not be practical in all areas. Sometimes the core charge for batteries exceeds $5.


I'm guessing forty years ago there was no core charge.
wink.gif


Valid point about not running something marginal. Am guessing today's batteries are a bit more robust, so a modern equivalent would be replacing every five years or so.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I think a good test every fall is the right approach up north.


Gets real cold in parts of NM too....my recommendation would be Sept 21 or there-abouts when you have to turn the clock back...and get ready for winter.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I pulled the battery out of my Buick last night inspired by this thread which re hashed my ocd and my charger indicted 80% state of charge. (DH-15A charger on 1.5 yr old Autocraft Gold 78-2)
It seems my battery and alternator combo keep it around 80% in the warmer months and even lesser in the summer when I'm constantly using heat and rear defrost. Something like 60%-70% in the winter iirc.

I pull it out every couple of months just to charge it at 2 amps. I think last night it took over 5 hours at 2 amps before indicating full. All this while my alternator tests perfect on the AAP tester.



Your over thinking things.

In warm weather the vehicles starter will draw significantly less power from the battery, and in warm weather even with only 80 percent charge any good battery will provide more cranking Amps than the same battery will provide when 100 percent charged in cold weather.

All you are doing by charging a battery from 80 to 100 percent in warm weather is taking a chance of overcharging the battery.

80 percent charge in warm weather with a good battery and a good starter is plenty enough power to start the vehicle.

In cold weather when a much colder engine puts much more load on the starter, and when the battery puts out less because it is cold, then 100 percent charge might have a slight advantage, but even at 80 percent charge there probably is not much of a cold cranking difference, compared to 100 percent charge.
 
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Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
New Mexico... Hot, right? Degrading chemical reactions double very 8C above 25Celsius.

Ever run it down?

Ever charge it fully with a real and smart charger?

To get the best read, charge it with a smart charger slowly, then have a real place test it with a combination of capacitance and real resistive load.


If battery A in New Mexico is on average kept ten degree Celsius (18 degree Fahrenheit) hotter than battery B in Florida, then battery A can be expected to last half as long as battery B.

And yes a battery can fail without warning. And batteries can even fail while the car is running resulting in a stalled engine. So if you ever drive through locations where a battery failure may leave you stranded in an environment that is too hot to be safely stranded in, it would be wise to replace your battery early such as every 24 months.


BTW a vehicle that spends any significant portion of its life in an underground garage where the temperature is significantly cooler, can be expected to have a longer battery life than a similar vehicle with a similar battery that spends significantly more time in the same area but in the hotter environment outside of the underground garage. And the owner of a vehicle that spends most of its life in cool underground garages may brag about the long life they get from a battery without giving credit to the significantly cooler average temperature that their vehicle (and battery) are normally kept at.


The chemical reaction rate increases in hot ambient temperatures, and the battery will have more CCA. The problem with hot weather is that the acid in the battery will eat the plates faster resulting in significantly shorter battery life.
 
Also, it is possible for a battery to fail while the vehicle is in motion, and if it fails so as to place way too much load on the vehicles alternator, then the vehicle will stall and probably will not start from a jump pack, and even if the jump pack can get it started it will not stay running when a battery fails as a high load.

This is why it is a good idea to replace any battery that is 2 years or more old when the vehicle is used in very hot weather.
 
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I know this may sound simplistic to some, but it reflects the reality:

Heat kills batteries, cold buries them.


The very best time to replace them, before they go, is in the fall, before the really cold and dark weather hits.

But FWIW, we just changed out the OE Delco on our '11 with a Deka AGM. The newer Mexican Delcos are dogs, and ours was already starting to fade. Waiting until December to hope for a stranded no-start and getting another lousy Delco under vehicle warranty is not worth my hassle or time.

Of course, in places like NM, where it never gets cold, I wouldn't wait for the cold for that no-start.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: Donald
I think a good test every fall is the right approach up north.


Gets real cold in parts of NM too....my recommendation would be Sept 21 or there-abouts when you have to turn the clock back...and get ready for winter.


Meh......I have never seen it any colder than -25F at my house. (East Mountains of NM.)
 
I have a trustworthy mechanic who tests the battery at every service for my wife's car.

Gives us a report and a computer printout of the health of the battery.

When the time comes to replace it, we will buy a napa battery through him.
 
now that i am retired and cant work on my truck my self any more. i find that if i just replaced the battery and starter every 4 years i do fine. and get a tune up once in a while.
 
Hello, From a solid aircraft mechanic who lived next door during my childhood: "After 3 years, they don't owe you anything."

Also, newer cars pull "computer current" 24/7 at different rates. When I learned that the Saabs in the family pull a stronger-than-average current to maintain their memories and 3 year battery life spans are common, I felt empowered not having to fret over it. I knew.

All the other stuff mentioned in this thread sounds REAL GOOD.

No one has mentioned the bridging within a battery. The weak little moulded strips of lead erode with time and crack. When that happens, the circuit is open and no electricity flows. There's no way to predict it but it does warrant skewing any maintenance and replacement schedule toward caution.

A pampered car which logs 1,000 miles per year which sits on a pillow in a garage can have a battery which can last 15 years. Not so with a real car. Kira
 
Just a note regarding battery life. IME with both fleet vehicles and very seldom used toys battery life seems unrelated to usage.

I have had batteries that only went two years to ones that were simply replaced because they scared us (age).

Sometimes they act up a bit and you can see what's coming, but other times they fail without warning. In short, there seems to be no reliable way to predict their life.

Since there are so few real mfgrs we now buy whatever battery has the longest non pro rated replacement policy...
 
My 99 Ford had a 3 year warranty on most everything including the battery. If you car is 2.5 years old and there is anyway you can get them to declare the battery bad you may be able to have it replaced free. I don't think it is pro rated either. Local dealer here won't replace a marginal battery under warranty. Might want to get the warranty out and see what it has to say.

My Ford batteries died like a week after the 3 year mark.
 
Wait until it slow cranks or doesn't crank and jump start is needed. Having said that, if batteries tend to die young where you live, doing it no later than December as per your thoughts is probably a good way to go.
 
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