When my oil pressure goes up about 4psi, at a reference temp of 90C and 1000rpm.
When do you change your oil?
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Originally Posted By: jxthomps
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll stick with what I'm doing I was just reading some post and people where talking 10k to 15k miles that just seem crazy to me. I don't think the oil is so expensive that you need to run it that long in my opinion. Thanks for the input.
Heh! Go to the oil filter forum and read how many times most of the members there like to use the same oil filter for multiple oil changes! Brace yourself so you don't pass out!
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll stick with what I'm doing I was just reading some post and people where talking 10k to 15k miles that just seem crazy to me. I don't think the oil is so expensive that you need to run it that long in my opinion. Thanks for the input.
Heh! Go to the oil filter forum and read how many times most of the members there like to use the same oil filter for multiple oil changes! Brace yourself so you don't pass out!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: rickmeseke
My jeep gets about 2k miles at most due to lots of high rev offroading on conventional
Bmw goes 7500ish i run it hard all city driving
Kia goes 5000-6000 on conventional city and hwy mix
I really should pull a UOA to see how high the Aluminum and Iron are on this run. I only have 2000 miles on the oil but I was playing around on a motocross track over the weekend (had permission to do so - not doing it illegally). There were 3 or 4 runs where the engine spent 10 minutes or so at 4000+RPM.
I usually do yearly changes on mine. So 4000-6000 miles. That involves off roading, towing ... Jeep stuff.
When you have those sustained 4,000+ rpm runs do you use any oil? Or more oil than normal? Thanks.
I don't believe it consumes any more oil. It does start dripping a lot and right on to the exhaust when that happens. I believe it is a combination of the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: rickmeseke
My jeep gets about 2k miles at most due to lots of high rev offroading on conventional
Bmw goes 7500ish i run it hard all city driving
Kia goes 5000-6000 on conventional city and hwy mix
I really should pull a UOA to see how high the Aluminum and Iron are on this run. I only have 2000 miles on the oil but I was playing around on a motocross track over the weekend (had permission to do so - not doing it illegally). There were 3 or 4 runs where the engine spent 10 minutes or so at 4000+RPM.
I usually do yearly changes on mine. So 4000-6000 miles. That involves off roading, towing ... Jeep stuff.
When you have those sustained 4,000+ rpm runs do you use any oil? Or more oil than normal? Thanks.
I don't believe it consumes any more oil. It does start dripping a lot and right on to the exhaust when that happens. I believe it is a combination of the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal.
I change all my cars at 1 year. Sometimes they do 3k, sometimes they do 10k. Depends on the car and year.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: rickmeseke
My jeep gets about 2k miles at most due to lots of high rev offroading on conventional
Bmw goes 7500ish i run it hard all city driving
Kia goes 5000-6000 on conventional city and hwy mix
I really should pull a UOA to see how high the Aluminum and Iron are on this run. I only have 2000 miles on the oil but I was playing around on a motocross track over the weekend (had permission to do so - not doing it illegally). There were 3 or 4 runs where the engine spent 10 minutes or so at 4000+RPM.
I usually do yearly changes on mine. So 4000-6000 miles. That involves off roading, towing ... Jeep stuff.
When you have those sustained 4,000+ rpm runs do you use any oil? Or more oil than normal? Thanks.
I don't believe it consumes any more oil. It does start dripping a lot and right on to the exhaust when that happens. I believe it is a combination of the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal.
Thanks.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: rickmeseke
My jeep gets about 2k miles at most due to lots of high rev offroading on conventional
Bmw goes 7500ish i run it hard all city driving
Kia goes 5000-6000 on conventional city and hwy mix
I really should pull a UOA to see how high the Aluminum and Iron are on this run. I only have 2000 miles on the oil but I was playing around on a motocross track over the weekend (had permission to do so - not doing it illegally). There were 3 or 4 runs where the engine spent 10 minutes or so at 4000+RPM.
I usually do yearly changes on mine. So 4000-6000 miles. That involves off roading, towing ... Jeep stuff.
When you have those sustained 4,000+ rpm runs do you use any oil? Or more oil than normal? Thanks.
I don't believe it consumes any more oil. It does start dripping a lot and right on to the exhaust when that happens. I believe it is a combination of the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal.
Thanks.
M1 every 5000 to 6000 kms or whenever I get bored and want to change it. I don't care if I do it early.
When did I last do an oil change on the cars ? The Camry gets it when the light comes on. The Rat and the BMW are going on their 2nd or 3rd yr. Both vehicles drove less than 1k miles last yr.
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
I use the OLM on all my GMs. Never had an issues. Usually it is between 6-9k.
Agreed. Confirmed with UOAs. Two V8s (never go back!). 5.3 in Tahoe burns 1-1.5 qts between changes so it is getting some refreshment. Camaro is HO and still tight.
I use the OLM on all my GMs. Never had an issues. Usually it is between 6-9k.
Agreed. Confirmed with UOAs. Two V8s (never go back!). 5.3 in Tahoe burns 1-1.5 qts between changes so it is getting some refreshment. Camaro is HO and still tight.
on my DD (2010 Hyundai 2.4L) I stick to 5k OCIs.
At about 5k, seems to start smelling a little fuel, so I don't push to 7.5k
Easier for me to remember when to change too.
add - Using PYB 5w30 & Hyundai OEM filter
At about 5k, seems to start smelling a little fuel, so I don't push to 7.5k
Easier for me to remember when to change too.
add - Using PYB 5w30 & Hyundai OEM filter
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My last OCI was 20K. Going for 30-40K or infinity; I run bypass filtration and full synthetic, and the OCI will be determined by test lab results which I'm doing every 4K...Right now almost 12K into the intended run. My filter is rated to 30K.
I like 5k intervals with full synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter. While I'm at it, I'll rotate my tires as well. We're already inconvenienced by taking the time out of our lives to maintain our cars, so why not take the extra time to complete the job IMHO.
Simple for me. I need to grease the chassis on my 3/4 ton pickup at 5000 miles, so I change the oil while I am under there. It is just a few quarts of oil and a filter, I don't have to take out a second mortgage to do it, and I have never had any desire to extend drains to extreme limits. And I ignore the OLM, as it cannot account for many variables. It is set up for the generic user. The OLM cannot tell, for instance, that my pickup is being used daily in a very dusty environment.
How many oil changes could be done with the cost of the bypass and UOA's done every 4K miles? It is interesting to see things going to extremes like that, but if something is not cost effective, it is not something that I would have a desire to do myself.
How many oil changes could be done with the cost of the bypass and UOA's done every 4K miles? It is interesting to see things going to extremes like that, but if something is not cost effective, it is not something that I would have a desire to do myself.
In the Firebird, which is driven sparingly, sits for long periods of time, and gets driven spiritedly, every 3k. In the Scion tC, I follow the owner's manual. Every 5k.
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Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
How many oil changes could be done with the cost of the bypass and UOA's done every 4K miles? It is interesting to see things going to extremes like that, but if something is not cost effective, it is not something that I would have a desire to do myself.
I'm not trying to throw money away...I'm trying to set precedent. What if?? What if my bypass filtration cleans effectively enough that with the addition of top up oil as necessary, (which will also replenish the additives) coupled with changing out the bypass filter element per manufacturer specs, what if I can demonstrate through lab analysis that I can ELIMINATE oil changes altogether, and cease the UOA?
How cost effective (and conveniently time saving) does it become then? Not trying to be argumentative, but I admit what I'm doing is using my own car as an experiment, and I'm in discovery phase.
How many oil changes could be done with the cost of the bypass and UOA's done every 4K miles? It is interesting to see things going to extremes like that, but if something is not cost effective, it is not something that I would have a desire to do myself.
I'm not trying to throw money away...I'm trying to set precedent. What if?? What if my bypass filtration cleans effectively enough that with the addition of top up oil as necessary, (which will also replenish the additives) coupled with changing out the bypass filter element per manufacturer specs, what if I can demonstrate through lab analysis that I can ELIMINATE oil changes altogether, and cease the UOA?
How cost effective (and conveniently time saving) does it become then? Not trying to be argumentative, but I admit what I'm doing is using my own car as an experiment, and I'm in discovery phase.
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
How many oil changes could be done with the cost of the bypass and UOA's done every 4K miles? It is interesting to see things going to extremes like that, but if something is not cost effective, it is not something that I would have a desire to do myself.
I'm not trying to throw money away...I'm trying to set precedent. What if?? What if my bypass filtration cleans effectively enough that with the addition of top up oil as necessary, (which will also replenish the additives) coupled with changing out the bypass filter element per manufacturer specs, what if I can demonstrate through lab analysis that I can ELIMINATE oil changes altogether, and cease the UOA?
How cost effective (and conveniently time saving) does it become then? Not trying to be argumentative, but I admit what I'm doing is using my own car as an experiment, and I'm in discovery phase.
You should pull a valve cover off and have a look. Or the oil pan....
My friend did the same thing with a Chevy 350. It sludged up over time.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
How many oil changes could be done with the cost of the bypass and UOA's done every 4K miles? It is interesting to see things going to extremes like that, but if something is not cost effective, it is not something that I would have a desire to do myself.
I'm not trying to throw money away...I'm trying to set precedent. What if?? What if my bypass filtration cleans effectively enough that with the addition of top up oil as necessary, (which will also replenish the additives) coupled with changing out the bypass filter element per manufacturer specs, what if I can demonstrate through lab analysis that I can ELIMINATE oil changes altogether, and cease the UOA?
How cost effective (and conveniently time saving) does it become then? Not trying to be argumentative, but I admit what I'm doing is using my own car as an experiment, and I'm in discovery phase.
You should pull a valve cover off and have a look. Or the oil pan....
My friend did the same thing with a Chevy 350. It sludged up over time.
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Was your friend doing UOA, bypass filtration and full synthetic?
I WILL be dropping my pan in the near future, because I already have a spare pan, which I'm going to cut a hole in the side of it above the oil level and weld a return fitting onto it. And I'm going to add a pretty aluminum valve cover.
I WILL be dropping my pan in the near future, because I already have a spare pan, which I'm going to cut a hole in the side of it above the oil level and weld a return fitting onto it. And I'm going to add a pretty aluminum valve cover.
Every 10k km.(6250 mi.) with Mobil1 0W-40.
2012 Buick Verano 2.4L with just over 320,000 km. (200,000 mi.), 90%+ highway driving.
2012 Buick Verano 2.4L with just over 320,000 km. (200,000 mi.), 90%+ highway driving.
Whenever I feel like it.
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