Originally Posted By: Number_35
A timely topic for me. Too much negative camber on the rear wheels is an issue from factory with the older Mazda 3/Mazda 5 rear suspension. The factory spec is, I believe -1.2 degrees +/- 1 degree. That means that up to 2.2 degrees of negative camber is acceptable.
I've just changed the rear trailing arm bushing on the driver's side, and (per my driveway measurements) the camber is now at -1.1 degree. The passenger side, which I'm working on now, was at -2.2 degrees.
It appears to me that as the bushings get sloppy, the negative camber increases. I believe the factory tolerance is excessive.
There are aftermarket camber-adjustment arms (SPC) available, and I may install them and dial in about -0.5 degrees. A bit of negative camber makes for good handling; too much eats tires. This might help the bushing life as well.
It's funny how once you encounter a problem on your own car, you notice it on others. I saw an older ('06 or '07) Mazda 5 the other evening all hunkered down in the rear - it looked like it had at least 3 degrees of negative camber on each side.
The same SPC camber-correction arm is used on various Fords & Volvos that share the same or similar rear suspension.
If you have alot of toe in, you can try getting rid of that first for free. I just had the rear toe set to zero and it made the Focus much better to drive in winter especially, and summer too. It still has significant rear camber but wears the tires better.
A timely topic for me. Too much negative camber on the rear wheels is an issue from factory with the older Mazda 3/Mazda 5 rear suspension. The factory spec is, I believe -1.2 degrees +/- 1 degree. That means that up to 2.2 degrees of negative camber is acceptable.
I've just changed the rear trailing arm bushing on the driver's side, and (per my driveway measurements) the camber is now at -1.1 degree. The passenger side, which I'm working on now, was at -2.2 degrees.
It appears to me that as the bushings get sloppy, the negative camber increases. I believe the factory tolerance is excessive.
There are aftermarket camber-adjustment arms (SPC) available, and I may install them and dial in about -0.5 degrees. A bit of negative camber makes for good handling; too much eats tires. This might help the bushing life as well.
It's funny how once you encounter a problem on your own car, you notice it on others. I saw an older ('06 or '07) Mazda 5 the other evening all hunkered down in the rear - it looked like it had at least 3 degrees of negative camber on each side.
The same SPC camber-correction arm is used on various Fords & Volvos that share the same or similar rear suspension.
If you have alot of toe in, you can try getting rid of that first for free. I just had the rear toe set to zero and it made the Focus much better to drive in winter especially, and summer too. It still has significant rear camber but wears the tires better.