whats the most controversial thing u put in oil?

[Spazdog]

Originally Posted By: yonyon
For me it was a lightbulb. I an 1157 lightbulb into the oil fill hole of a Caddy 4.5L. I don't think it did too much damage as the thing still ran perfectly ten years later.


A Cadillac 4.5 still ran after 10 years?

Maybe we should start dropping light bulbs into all the remaining HT4100/4.5/4.9 Cadillacs.

 

[RobertISaar]

Slick50 in place of a an equal amount of oil. didn't seem to do anything.

quart of ATF in place of a quart of 5w30. didn't seem to do anything.

quart of kerosene added to already hot and full(5 quarts) crankcase of ~3000 mile 5w30, driven for 50 relatively gentle miles before being dumped for another 5 quarts of 5w30. fixed lifter ticking and changed the color of the oil VERY quickly. came out of the drain plug almost thinner than water.



all in the same engine and within a year or two of each other. still kicking along.

 

[KCJeep]

When I was very young, no oil change was complete without a can of STP oil treatment. That wasn't controversial back then though...

I got bit by the Slick 50 marketing a couple times early on. No problems but still ticked about getting ripped off. Also used Motor Honey in a horrible smoker.

More recently I've used MMO adn MoS2, and I continue to use them. Neither of them do I consider controversial, at least not to anybody I have any interest in listening to anyway.

Kreen is on my short list for my dirty, dirty Jeep. Maybe.

 

[Clevy]

I did the slick 50 thing in my first car. It ended up eating the cam shortly thereafter an 03 305. Coincidence?
I've just finally got some mmo. Saving it for my inverse oiler. The only additives that I will add to the crankcase are MOS2,cera-tec and motor oil saver. All liqui-moly brand.
When I first got my hemi I ran rislone through it,as a preventative measure but I don't use it often,or ever before actually.
I don't use any oil additive often but I do see value in their use when a perceived problem exists. I don't perceive any problems right now so just oil for me.

 

[Vikas]

I put seafoam in mine and the drain plug threads got stripped. Both the statements are true but obviously it is not cause and effect although some people might want to assign the blame.

 

[TuBon_gRips]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
I put seafoam in mine and the drain plug threads got stripped. Both the statements are true but obviously it is not cause and effect although some people might want to assign the blame.


Same thing happened to my coworker! It's an epidemic, I tell ya! His stripped threads had nothing to do with him essentially doing pull-ups on the ratchet as he was tightening the drain plug in the aluminum pan; I tell you it was the seafoam!

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
I did the slick 50 thing in my first car. It ended up eating the cam shortly thereafter an 03 305. Coincidence?
I've just finally got some mmo. Saving it for my inverse oiler. The only additives that I will add to the crankcase are MOS2,cera-tec and motor oil saver. All liqui-moly brand.
When I first got my hemi I ran rislone through it,as a preventative measure but I don't use it often,or ever before actually.
I don't use any oil additive often but I do see value in their use when a perceived problem exists. I don't perceive any problems right now so just oil for me.


If you have to use additives Liqui Moly are better than the other snake oil producers because all their additives meet a defined minimum lubrication standard, this means you can add several different cans at once and it won't cause immediate damage. Folks using their flush often use stop leak and Cretec at the same time, which is 3 cans in one go!!
That's a real silly idea and it causes a sludge risk if left in the sump too long, but it won't go bang.
Don't use Ceretec and Moly at the same time, as the Ceretec does contain enough Moly and neither will improve on the performance of their Synthoils. They do work well in the correct amounts with Fuchs 10/40 dino (Popular farmers and truckers oil) and the Russian 5 or 15w40's, both of which lack a sensible add pack.
I've looked at a lot of UOA results for both Moly and other anti wear additives and although they seem to help cheap oils, they do nothing or make the performance of a full synthetic worse. Adding Zinc snake oils does show some improvement with low Zinc content oils, BUT it then fouls up the exhaust. If you want a high Moly or Zinc oil the major brands do make them for folks with race or flat tappet engine. Castrol list them under the classic car section not in the main oil guide.

 

[Kruse]

Back in the early 80s, I had a co-worker who bought an early 70s Oldsmobile Cutlass that had a stuck lifter and a transmission that wouldn't shift properly. The car was beautiful and everything worked except for these two problems. His daughter drove it 50 miles every day to go to school. The first thing that I did to the transmission was to swap around the distributor vacuum advance line and the vacuum line to the transmission modulator. Some knuckle-dragger before him had gotten the two mixed up. The next thing I did was have him add a quart of transmission fluid to the engine oil. That was the magical cure-all elixir at the time and I didn't know any better either.
Well, swapping the vacuum advance and the transmission modulator vacuum line made the transmission shift like it should and for one reason or another, the lifter became unstuck also. After that, the co-worker thought I could walk on water. I suspect the lifter would have fixed itself just from the detergent in the engine oil, but I wasn't going to argue with the results.

 

[electrolover]

Bout time you chimed in. I was starting to think you had left the board.......

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
Bout time you chimed in. I was starting to think you had left the board.......


No such luck. A bus doing 80 will suffice

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I did the slick 50 thing in my first car. It ended up eating the cam shortly thereafter an 03 305. Coincidence?
I've just finally got some mmo. Saving it for my inverse oiler. The only additives that I will add to the crankcase are MOS2,cera-tec and motor oil saver. All liqui-moly brand.
When I first got my hemi I ran rislone through it,as a preventative measure but I don't use it often,or ever before actually.
I don't use any oil additive often but I do see value in their use when a perceived problem exists. I don't perceive any problems right now so just oil for me.


If you have to use additives Liqui Moly are better than the other snake oil producers because all their additives meet a defined minimum lubrication standard, this means you can add several different cans at once and it won't cause immediate damage. Folks using their flush often use stop leak and Cretec at the same time, which is 3 cans in one go!!
That's a real silly idea and it causes a sludge risk if left in the sump too long, but it won't go bang.
Don't use Ceretec and Moly at the same time, as the Ceretec does contain enough Moly and neither will improve on the performance of their Synthoils. They do work well in the correct amounts with Fuchs 10/40 dino (Popular farmers and truckers oil) and the Russian 5 or 15w40's, both of which lack a sensible add pack.
I've looked at a lot of UOA results for both Moly and other anti wear additives and although they seem to help cheap oils, they do nothing or make the performance of a full synthetic worse. Adding Zinc snake oils does show some improvement with low Zinc content oils, BUT it then fouls up the exhaust. If you want a high Moly or Zinc oil the major brands do make them for folks with race or flat tappet engine. Castrol list them under the classic car section not in the main oil guide.


Didn't ask for your advice. I rarely use additives and when I do I read the instructions. The instructions on the can of cera tec are clear,as are the instructions on MOS2.
If I used both at once then how would I determine anything,mileage,noise etc. When I do use something then I use it as directed,by itself,so I can determine if it does anything or just drains my wallet.
Cera tec is great stuff. I've got 6 cans of it. Saving it for my new motors since it leaves a hard layer behind which is supposed to eliminate metal on metal contact and lasts for 50000kms.
Save your comments as I really don't care or nor are interested in your advice. It carries no weight with me and is a waste of my time. Share your expertise with those who care to listen since I obviously don't.
The Clever Gang

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Clevy


The Clever Gang


Clever Gang..........Did I miss something?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Clevy


The Clever Gang


Clever Gang..........Did I miss something?


Found it in one of sunk ships posts. The Clever gang of addaholics.
I figured I'd run with it.

 

[skyship]

I sometimes click on the wrong reply link to save time and all my comments are general in nature, hence the warning about using Moly and Ceretec at the same time as LM don't point out that it has Moly in it.
I did check the lab results for Cretec use in VW TDI's and it does not last longer than 20K km in terms of wear metal results. The two side effects are potential fouling of spark plugs and a possible increase in top end wear (Theory only not seen it in a UOA). If you seal up the rings too well it can increase blow by deposits around the valves if the engine is burning some oil, not so likely if you don't have a big right boot in my opinion and the valve guide oil seals are in good shape.
So far Ceretec is the only oil additive that has produced a slight improvement over the wear metal figures for M1 0/40 (Less Fe and Pb), BUT that does not mean much as I only saw 2 results so far that had following changes back to normal oil to confirm it worked and M1 0/40 is not the best oil for the VW TDI anyway. (Tin hats!!)

 

[Mystic]

Can we see some sort of documentation that moly causes problems in motor oil? I am sure Pennzoil and other companies would probably love to see that evidence because some companies still put moly in motor oil.

And can we see some sort of documentation that this Ceretec product causes the problems that you talk about? Skyship you should be able to obtain that documentation since you have such a great relationship with all of these labs.Some people complain that the people promoting various oil supplements and engine cleaners cannot produce documentation to support their claims that the oil supplements help. Well, I would like to see documentation that moly is so bad for engines.

And all of us are still waiting to see all of the ruined engines that MMO, Kreen, etc., caused.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: Mystic
Can we see some sort of documentation that moly causes problems in motor oil? I am sure Pennzoil and other companies would probably love to see that evidence because some companies still put moly in motor oil.

And can we see some sort of documentation that this Ceretec product causes the problems that you talk about? Skyship you should be able to obtain that documentation since you have such a great relationship with all of these labs.Some people complain that the people promoting various oil supplements and engine cleaners cannot produce documentation to support their claims that the oil supplements help. Well, I would like to see documentation that moly is so bad for engines.

And all of us are still waiting to see all of the ruined engines that MMO, Kreen, etc., caused.


If you Google Ceretec you can do your own research and there have been several previous threads on it that discussed plug fouling with oil burners etc.
Moly that is included in oil add packs is fine, but if you push it over about 200ppm it causes trouble. Redline is currently the only oil with seriously high Moly levels that is in normal non race type use and it is one bad choice for a long OCI. Too much of any additive is bad news and not good, even too much detergent causes interference in boundary layer anti wear function.
Google image search has lots of pictures of flushed out blown engines and reports, but it would be a waste of time posting links (Look past about page 5 as it's mostly advertising).
The only lab I deal with in professional fluid analysis terms is the main ZF R&D lab which is just up the road. They have an amazing data base of various German engine results, although some of them are available on the TDI forum. I have a serious CA with them, so can't copy their data.
The geeks I know think snake oils are one bad news item because although snake oil use is very low in modern cars under warranty it does seem to be causing about 10% of the lubrication failures in gearboxes and turbos, if you only look at wrong oil and not no oil cases. Russian gearbox oil is top of the list (The manual boxes must have a high tech ZF fluid) and Moly box additives are second.
When an owner gets a lubrication failure they often read the manual and figure they put the wrong fluid in, or in the case of older gearboxes used the wrong Lubriguard approved additive to reduce noise, then they change the fluid for the right one hoping to hide the mistake, but traces of Moly show up almost permanently and luckily most Russian gearbox oil has some included.
The reason nearly every manufacturer prints warnings about oil additives is because they cost them money in warranty claim terms when not detected and start arguments with customers about a turbo failing and oil leaks in particular. If you want to try an experiment just buy a new Ford Focus turbo, use Motorcraft 5/20 part dino and the forum recommended 25% Moo snake oil, then drive at near full power from Zurich to Berlin on a Sunday. The last muppet needed a new turbo from Frankfurt, which is where it went bang on him from fried bearings.

 

[TuBon_gRips]

Originally Posted By: skyship

the forum recommended 25% Moo snake oil


You mean the manufacturer-recommended MAXIMUM of 25% MMO?

 

[skyship]

Can I use MMO to replace all of my regular engine oil?
No, you cannot use MMO to replace all the oil in the crankcase. The maximum amount of MMO to be used is 25% of crankcase capacity.

I love the way that it is sold as both a fuel additive and an oil one. It also lists every possible lubrication and fuel system fault, as their marketing methods have been perfected over many years to fool the unwary customers. The Focus had a non approved oil in use, so the warranty claim was rejected anyway. I bet he read another forum about light oil use saving money as 5/20 is not currently approved in Germany.

 

[Trajan]

Originally Posted By: Mystic

the people promoting various oil supplements and engine cleaners cannot produce documentation to support their claims that the oil supplements help.


And they have failed over and over again to produce any. Some claim that because a "respected" member posts in favor of it that should be accepted on its face. The same objections/conditions apply to mmo/kreen that some assert do, say, arx.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I put seafoam in mine and the drain plug threads got stripped. Both the statements are true but obviously it is not cause and effect although some people might want to assign the blame.


Same thing happened to my coworker! It's an epidemic, I tell ya! His stripped threads had nothing to do with him essentially doing pull-ups on the ratchet as he was tightening the drain plug in the aluminum pan; I tell you it was the seafoam!


Salt water corrodes Aluminium!!