Whats the best oil to use when using ARX?

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eddiedz

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I plan on using a dose of Auto RX on my next oil change(2002 dodge caravan se 3.3l 166,000kms), i read all the FAQ's on their website and know about using a non-synthetic oil for the cleaning/rinsing phases but they also mention that pennzoil plantinum is really good for these phases (or at least the rinse phasse?)

so my question, which of the following oils should i use for my next oil change (which will have a motorcraft fl-1A oil filter and a dose of auto rx)

-pennzoil plantinum 5w30 (is this still a group III?)
-valvoline synpower 5w30 (the ARX faq said not use high mileage or semi-synthetic oil so that eliminates my option to use maxlife which is what i am using now)

or should i just ditch those two options and go pure dino (e.g. Irving Max 1 conventional oil) for the clean/rinse stage then use a synthetic afterwards...
 
I would use Castrol Syntec for the rinse phase. I've found Syntec to be an excellent cleanser (and protector). It may do well in scouring out all the junk that ARX loosened up.
 
I'd go with the cheapest SM dino oil I could find. That's what I did. Save the PP for when the clean/rinse phase is over.

Frank D
 
What have you been running in the vehicle prior to now?

If you've been running conventional, I see no reason to use synthetic for the clean and rise phases. It's a waste of good oil, since these phases aren't over 3,000 miles anyway.

I have about 1400 miles on my Auto RX clean phase right now, and I started with Pennzoil yellow bottle 5W-20, and added a half of a quart of left over Trop Artic 10w30 when I needed to top off. I later needed more make up oil, so I added a quart of 5W-20 Mobil Clean 5000. In truth, the oil seemed to get darker faster after adding the Mobil Clean 5000, which is supposed to have a fair amount of cleaning agents of its own.

I'm tempted to ditch the idea of using my jug of Motorcraft 5W-20 synblend for the rinse phase and to use the Mobil Clean 5000 instead.
 
To the OP, use the cheapest dino oil you can find such as SuperTech from Wal-Mart or Advance Auto Parts house brand oil. As mentioned above, save PP after you are finished with Auto-RX.

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I later needed more make up oil, so I added a quart of 5W-20 Mobil Clean 5000. In truth, the oil seemed to get darker faster after adding the Mobil Clean 5000, which is supposed to have a fair amount of cleaning agents of its own.

I'm tempted to ditch the idea of using my jug of Motorcraft 5W-20 synblend for the rinse phase and to use the Mobil Clean 5000 instead.


I've found that the cheaper oils and bulk oil gets darker faster than a more premium oil like Pennzoil YB, Castrol GTX and MaxLife which is quite opposite of your statement. I also believe your oil got darker due to conflicting chemistry in between the brands.
 
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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I'm not sure I believe the conflicting chemistry thing.


Then perhaps it's a weaker oil which breaks down faster and thus darkens at a faster rate than other premium oils? I know that color is not a deciding factor and a UOA is, but based on my personal experience, the cheaper and weaker oils turn darker faster.
 
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i see, so save my money, use a dino oil (e.g. supertech) for the clean AND rinse phase and then use PP afterwards... yea the PP in a 5L jug at my local walmart is $29.99 plus tax and although the clean stage is 2500 miles and then the rinse stage is 3000 miles, i drive few miles per day, in a 6 month time frame i will not even pass 3500 miles most likely (and thats like 6 months)so even if i where to use PP during cleaning and rising, its not like i'll be going a short time frame with it so i wont feel like im wasting my money

i am currently running valvoline maxlife synthetic blend (high mileage) 5w30.

@chevrofreak . yea i wouldnt recommend mixing that many different brands of oil, and worst, mixing different grades (5w30 then 10w30 etc..)
 
Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I'm not sure I believe the conflicting chemistry thing.


Then perhaps it's a weaker oil which breaks down faster and thus darkens at a faster rate than other premium oils? I know that color is not a deciding factor and a UOA is, but based on my personal experience, the cheaper and weaker oils turn darker faster.


My theory is that it's cleaning faster. The darkening started about 50 miles after I put in the Pennzoil Auto RX and it has been getting darker every time I drive it. I'm anxious to see what happens in the rinse phase.
 
Originally Posted By: eddiedz
i see, so save my money, use a dino oil (e.g. supertech) for the clean AND rinse phase and then use PP afterwards... yea the PP in a 5L jug at my local walmart is $29.99 plus tax and although the clean stage is 2500 miles and then the rinse stage is 3000 miles, i drive few miles per day, in a 6 month time frame i will not even pass 3500 miles most likely (and thats like 6 months)so even if i where to use PP during cleaning and rising, its not like i'll be going a short time frame with it so i wont feel like im wasting my money

i am currently running valvoline maxlife synthetic blend (high mileage) 5w30.

@chevrofreak . yea i wouldnt recommend mixing that many different brands of oil, and worst, mixing different grades (5w30 then 10w30 etc..)


Yeah, just use cheap oil. The Auto RX has its own additives that will fortify the oil.

You don't want to use a high mileage oil during the clean and rinse phases, and you probably shouldn't go back to it after the rinse phase is done either.

As far as mixing brands and grades of oil, I've never seen any evidence that it causes problems. People here on BITOG have been doing it for a long time, and we'd hear about it if there were issues. Not to mention all the people who are constantly switching brands of oils, because there will always be at least some residual oil left in your engine each time you do it. Sometimes it can be over a quart. The websites for most oil manufacturers also state that their oils are fully compatible with all other oils.
 
Quote:
i see, so save my money, use a dino oil (e.g. supertech) for the clean AND rinse phase and then use PP afterwards...


Exactly. The stuff is in use too short a time to bother with anything but the cheapest you can find. Now if it's going to take a year to complete the process (someone doing 6k a year) then the "sensible costs" factor can be ignored.
 
thanks guys, theres afew "cheap" brands around here walmarts supertech, canadian tires motomaster/formula one etc. i wouldnt even mind sticking in name brand dino (irving max 1, pennzoil conventional, valvoline conventional etc..) those all sell for below the $20 for a 5L jug.
 
I am using some SL Havoline from Big Lots, but if I did not have that on hand I would use SuperTech. I have a few thousand miles till the rinse phase.

I have mixed oils without problem, but I have an oil burning Saturn. It burns Rotella-T 5-40 with the same gusto as the cheapest oil. At this point, just so it has oil in it is my main concern. I mostly mix oils when topping off. I have about a dozen varieties and weights of oil in the garage. Sometimes I grab what is handy...
 
seems everyone loves supertech LoL .. how does it stand up or compare against dino oils from valvoline, pennzoil, irving max 1 and mobil super 1000(dino)(this one is only available in canada)
 
I used Valvoline for my first Clean/Rinse then I used Havoline DS for the 2nd Clean/Rinse. Got both on sale.
thumbsup2.gif
 
All 5w30 SM rated conventional motor oils (latest letter rating since 2004) must use Group II+ base oils to meet the SM specifications. These Group II+ base oils are almost synthetic quality and are far better than the Group I oils used in conventional oils 15 years ago. Conventional Group II oils don't generally get the premium add-pacs that many synthetics use, but even inexpensive brands like Supertech 5w30 use GII+ base oils. They will run 5k miles in most applications quite easily (non forced induction like turbo) and deliver synthetic-like performance in terms or wear and engine cleanliness.

So, if you will be doing 3k mile /6 month oil changes, I think the Supertech, or some other relatively inexpensive SM rated 5w30 would be a good choice.
 
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