I just bought this car unknown oil and miles it is coal black, thin and smells burnt.
What weight for a 78 nova 4dr 250 I6
- Thread starter jakewells
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mobil coventional 10w 40 high mileage. Should do some cleaning.
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it is clean under the rocker cover and valve cover no varnish or sludge i was just in there to replace the gaskets.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
I'd say Valvoline Maxlife 10w40 Jake. Helpful to the gaskets you just replaced, and high operating viscosity which that motor likely ran on when it was much newer. A win win there in my opinion.
sounds good it doesn't leak anything or smoke for that matter i was only under the valve cover to set the lash since it was a little noisy idling. it has 136,000 miles.
I'd say Valvoline Maxlife 10w40 Jake. Helpful to the gaskets you just replaced, and high operating viscosity which that motor likely ran on when it was much newer. A win win there in my opinion.
sounds good it doesn't leak anything or smoke for that matter i was only under the valve cover to set the lash since it was a little noisy idling. it has 136,000 miles.
Lots of late 70s Nova content on here recently.
Not a moment too soon!
Not a moment too soon!
Some straight 30 would be a good choice too. Maybe some Castrol or Supertech.
My father had 9 of them. From 1975 to 1979 models.
He had a govt job and drove one in the 80s and kind of got obsessed with them after that.
Yes he drove one during the winter with studded tires, but the low ground clearance hurt it in the snow.
His rule of thumb was to buy from elderly and less than 100K miles. He had a few that he bought with under 50K miles for under $500.
Engine oil was always Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 10w30.
I posted this in your other thread..
He never used any high mileage oils, his main daily driver had around 200K on it with no end in sight except the rust.
He had a govt job and drove one in the 80s and kind of got obsessed with them after that.
Yes he drove one during the winter with studded tires, but the low ground clearance hurt it in the snow.
His rule of thumb was to buy from elderly and less than 100K miles. He had a few that he bought with under 50K miles for under $500.
Engine oil was always Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 10w30.
I posted this in your other thread..
He never used any high mileage oils, his main daily driver had around 200K on it with no end in sight except the rust.
That engine was spec'd for 10w-30. I would use any 10w-30 of your choice. A HM oil would be my choice. That engine has a flat tappet cam but the valve spring pressures are so low I would not worry about the lower ZDDP levels of modern oil. If you notice it uses some oil then I might try a 10w-40 but NOT BEFORE.
+1 for 10w30
Any dino based xW-30 for the winter. I'd prolly do xW-40 in the summer - me, I'd run 15w40 HDEO like Delo 400. Keep the OCI's short for a while. I'd prolly go Wix/Napa Gold filter for a while.
I'd put a full can of BG109 in there for a 100 miles and then change the oil. Wanna make sure the lifters are happy.
I'd put a full can of BG109 in there for a 100 miles and then change the oil. Wanna make sure the lifters are happy.
+1 for 10W-30 or 10W-40 (if you prefer)
whats the rest of the car look like?
I had that car! (a 1976 Nova 4 door same engine)
That it is clean under the VC is the best news.
Why not pull the plugs and do cold and wet/cold compression checks?
Ha-ha...back then I'd use the 10W-30 in the Winter and go to 10W-40 in the Summer for all cars.
NOTE: There was a pair of concentric extension springs (one part number) on the carb linkage of my car. I noticed the larger of the two springs. It was broken and hanging off one link.
I took the broken piece to a Chevy parts dept. and the lad produced the 2 springs. I said there was only one. He answered that there were indeed 2 springs..."it's a '76, right?".
It's a single part number so you get both anyway.
Sure enough, there were linkages requiring both springs. Took me 20 seconds to hook 'em in place.
By '78 I don't know, but look at your carb's left most side and see if there are broken spring pieces hanging there or disconnected linkages swinging in the breeze.
NOTE: My '76 had the inferior T200 trans. It was one of the many vehicles involved with the famous GM "Parts from other car divisions" scandal.
When the reverse actuation piston cracked in mine (resulting in weak reverse engagement) my friend installed a rebuilt T450 unit.
I took the drive shaft to a shaft shop for new U-joints (squeaking they were) and balancing.
Rode like a dream.
Apricot Whip with an insane red plastic interior. It came with a 25 gallon tank.
That it is clean under the VC is the best news.
Why not pull the plugs and do cold and wet/cold compression checks?
Ha-ha...back then I'd use the 10W-30 in the Winter and go to 10W-40 in the Summer for all cars.
NOTE: There was a pair of concentric extension springs (one part number) on the carb linkage of my car. I noticed the larger of the two springs. It was broken and hanging off one link.
I took the broken piece to a Chevy parts dept. and the lad produced the 2 springs. I said there was only one. He answered that there were indeed 2 springs..."it's a '76, right?".
It's a single part number so you get both anyway.
Sure enough, there were linkages requiring both springs. Took me 20 seconds to hook 'em in place.
By '78 I don't know, but look at your carb's left most side and see if there are broken spring pieces hanging there or disconnected linkages swinging in the breeze.
NOTE: My '76 had the inferior T200 trans. It was one of the many vehicles involved with the famous GM "Parts from other car divisions" scandal.
When the reverse actuation piston cracked in mine (resulting in weak reverse engagement) my friend installed a rebuilt T450 unit.
I took the drive shaft to a shaft shop for new U-joints (squeaking they were) and balancing.
Rode like a dream.
Apricot Whip with an insane red plastic interior. It came with a 25 gallon tank.
JHZR2
Staff member
Id personally run an hdeo 10w-30.
back in my high school days. a friend of mine had that engine in a 1978 camaro. he put on clifford split headers. exhaust out each side of the car. an msd unit, four barrel carb. and a bunch of other stuff im probably not aware of. that car took on 8 cylinders and won (on top end) every time...
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OK, I'm back. That car of yours made me swoon.
Do rehose the fresh air supply of the PCV system (and check the PCV and its pipe to the carb.).
And for heaven's sake, check the air snorkel's thermostat.
A neighbor of a coworker had a junkyard. He'd separate all GM 14" wheels for me (from cars he'd crush). I never bought tires for that car of mine and the guy I sold it to got 12 steel wheels.
Do rehose the fresh air supply of the PCV system (and check the PCV and its pipe to the carb.).
And for heaven's sake, check the air snorkel's thermostat.
A neighbor of a coworker had a junkyard. He'd separate all GM 14" wheels for me (from cars he'd crush). I never bought tires for that car of mine and the guy I sold it to got 12 steel wheels.
I'm currently digging into the rear brakes the drums are at oreilly auto getting turned and i picked up new wheel cylinders,shoes,brake hose, and hardware kit.
I pressure tested the engine to check for leaks and it passed with flying colors it held pressure for a hour. i placed a order for new vacuum and pvc hoses the charcoal canister is long gone.
I pressure tested the engine to check for leaks and it passed with flying colors it held pressure for a hour. i placed a order for new vacuum and pvc hoses the charcoal canister is long gone.
PYB 10W30 or PHM 10W30
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