What tread depth at change the tires?

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by Rand
I usually replace around 4-5/32nds

IF you go much lower your chances of getting a flat go up about 5x.

hydroplaning is the main reason though.. that and noise.

Also I'm a tire nut.

I had a few friends ribbing me for using winter tires.. they never needed them..

well one of them did a 360 into a concrete barrier and bought a new $45000 suv so they have awd now to feel safe.

$500 of winter tires would have been better.

I guess its all about priorities.. I make having superior tires a priority.


I understand the impact of worn tires wet weather hydroplaning. But I am having an issue now with my VW lease - im just trying to get to just 15K miles without buying a set come December which will ruin the value proposition of an "inexpensive" 2 year lease.

The factory Falken 250 A/S only came with 9/32" NEW ( I have a tire depth pin gauge and measured them )

Lease contract " worn" is stated as 3/32" remaining, so there was only a 6/32" serviceable tread to begin with!

I'm at 6/32" at 8700 miles and have rotated regularly (once). I'm trying to milk them to This December at turn in time.

These Tires are like playdough AND I cannot seem to get the front end tracking properly - even with two trys at the VW dealer.

For the OP, If you don't drive on the interstate or highway at high speeds over 55mph, I would run them down to the treadwear bars.

OTW it would be like throwing away a bag of good kettle -cooked potato chips with an inch of the buggers still in the bag.

Yes, that was a bad analogy

 

[parshisa]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Rand
I usually replace around 4-5/32nds

IF you go much lower your chances of getting a flat go up about 5x.

hydroplaning is the main reason though.. that and noise.

Also I'm a tire nut.

I had a few friends ribbing me for using winter tires.. they never needed them..

well one of them did a 360 into a concrete barrier and bought a new $45000 suv so they have awd now to feel safe.

$500 of winter tires would have been better.

I guess its all about priorities.. I make having superior tires a priority.


I understand the impact of worn tires wet weather hydroplaning. But I am having an issue now with my VW lease - im just trying to get to just 15K miles without buying a set come December which will ruin the value proposition of an "inexpensive" 2 year lease.

The factory Falken 250 A/S only came with 9/32" NEW ( I have a tire depth pin gauge and measured them )

Lease contract " worn" is stated as 3/32" remaining, so there was only a 6/32" serviceable tread to begin with!

I'm at 6/32" at 8700 miles and have rotated regularly (once). I'm trying to milk them to This December at turn in time.

These Tires are like playdough AND I cannot seem to get the front end tracking properly - even with two trys at the VW dealer.

For the OP, If you don't drive on the interstate or highway at high speeds over 55mph, I would run them down to the treadwear bars.

OTW it would be like throwing away a bag of good kettle -cooked potato chips with an inch of the buggers still in the bag.

Yes, that was a bad analogy

That's the thing, majority (80% or so) of my driving is 65mph+

But, i know exactly what you mean when it comes to those kettle-cooked yummies lol

 

[Pew]

Generally around 3-4/32 when they're uncontrollable and start hydroplaning in standing water at 65mph. That's usually about the same time that I can't take a left turn into my subdivision at 20mph without feeling the front slip when it's wet outside too. For snows I will replace them at no lower than 6/32s if I'm going on a roadtrip across CO/UT/NM.

 

[brages]

 

[Eddie]

+1 brages. Nothing worse than a bad driver even if his tires have 10/32 tread. Ed

 

[Astro_Guy]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
I understand the impact of worn tires wet weather hydroplaning. But I am having an issue now with my VW lease - im just trying to get to just 15K miles without buying a set come December which will ruin the value proposition of an "inexpensive" 2 year lease.
So in other words you are willing to jeopardize your own safety, not to mention that of your passengers or other drivers around you just to save $500?

 

[Rmay635703]

Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
I understand the impact of worn tires wet weather hydroplaning. But I am having an issue now with my VW lease - im just trying to get to just 15K miles without buying a set come December which will ruin the value proposition of an "inexpensive" 2 year lease.
So in other words you are willing to jeopardize your own safety, not to mention that of your passengers or other drivers around you just to save $500?


I've driven over a million miles without accidents

I've run them bald On the edges several times, no crash, no blowout, just got a couple extra months so the fresh tread went on just before winter.

If you drive appropriately and know your car the likelyhood of problem is much smaller, if the car handles OK you can definitely take it down to 2/32, especially with traction control,
not recommended if you have snow but I've gotten away with that as well but it makes driving an irritating chore.

When forced to drive carefully it is a good motivator to buy new tires.

Feeling lucky op or do you just point the wheel and floor it out into the woods?
Bald tires don't work for aggressive drivers and folks who can't feel a skid starting

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
I understand the impact of worn tires wet weather hydroplaning. But I am having an issue now with my VW lease - im just trying to get to just 15K miles without buying a set come December which will ruin the value proposition of an "inexpensive" 2 year lease.
So in other words you are willing to jeopardize your own safety, not to mention that of your passengers or other drivers around you just to save $500?


I have 6/32" tread remaining? Where is the Jeopardy?
Gripe VW who built a car that handes like a 63 Mercury Comet with no anti-sway bars, and no steering feedback what so ever.

The mid 90's Ford Contour/Mondeo was a MUCH better design than the new Jetta - By FAR.

Plus, I have NO passengers and I don't drive on the interstate typically.

Plus I am a very accomplished driver.

The pros and cons have been argued.

The decision has been made

The O.P. will replace the worn tires as they do high speed highway driving regularly.

ps: If I get my argument through, VW will be buying these tires NOT ME. 15K miles out of rotated Standard all season 60 series passenger car tires is criminal.
And 500 dollars is not "throw away" cash esp on a 2 year lease.

Do you expect to buy tires on a Passenger car over a two year 20K miles lease?

THAT is the issue. For me at least.

 

[4WD]

I get tires at Discount Tire and do the rotations in the package deal. Normally ask them for a forecast once I get some miles on them. Recently they told me two tires would probably wear below inspection standards in a few months when due.
He suggested two like for like tires. (yes, suggested they go on the rear).
While I appreciated him trying to save me a bit … got 4 of a store brand that was on sale.

 

[parshisa]

Thanks everyone who voiced opinions. Getting a set of coopers installed tomorrow. Once some miles accumulated will report back On how they do compared to the worn ones

 

[JHZR2]

We don't drive stupidly or aggressively, and use caution in rain. Also don't drive fast through standing water.

Thus it's based upon age and seasons.

We swapped the tires on the odyssey because one was plugged and started leaking air again. Could have lasted the winter and next summer, but I was tired of the leak.

My accord has 60k, and the OE Michelin's have 6-7/32 still. Just measured them because I picked up a matching used tire due to slamming a pothole and getting a blowout a few months back. Those tires will age out and I'll replace them at 6 years or so, with probably 50% tread and 80-90k miles!

 

[parshisa]

So, i had the tires installed yesterday, put around 100mi already - liking so far. BUT. When they were installing them i noticed that manufacturing date is 2118, which means they are couple of weeks short of being 2yrs old "new" tires. I brought it to service manager's attention, and he was a bit puzzled as well. What he told me to do is keep on rolling on them until he gets with his Cooper supplier and locate some fresh one. Then i'd need to come back and they's replace them. Honestly, not 100% sure if should go for it. With my annual mileage i'll be done with this tires in 3-4yrs max, which will put them right at 6yrs age where i should be replacing them anyway. Plus, if i go for new ones that'll be a loss for tye tire place. What you guys have to say on that?

 

[Rmay635703]

Originally Posted by parshisa
So, i had the tires installed yesterday, put around 100mi already - liking so far. BUT. When they were installing them i noticed that manufacturing date is 2118, which means they are couple of weeks short of being 2yrs old "new" tires. I brought it to service manager's attention, and he was a bit puzzled as well. What he told me to do is keep on rolling on them until he gets with his Cooper supplier and locate some fresh one. Then i'd need to come back and they's replace them. Honestly, not 100% sure if should go for it. With my annual mileage i'll be done with this tires in 3-4yrs max, which will put them right at 6yrs age where i should be replacing them anyway. Plus, if i go for new ones that'll be a loss for tye tire place. What you guys have to say on that?


Should be a 25% discount right there (I always bring that up to the manager before paying and typically get some money on the table)

That said still plentiful life (my treads are going on 9 years old on one car)

 

[parshisa]

Originally Posted by Rmay635703
Originally Posted by parshisa
So, i had the tires installed yesterday, put around 100mi already - liking so far. BUT. When they were installing them i noticed that manufacturing date is 2118, which means they are couple of weeks short of being 2yrs old "new" tires. I brought it to service manager's attention, and he was a bit puzzled as well. What he told me to do is keep on rolling on them until he gets with his Cooper supplier and locate some fresh one. Then i'd need to come back and they's replace them. Honestly, not 100% sure if should go for it. With my annual mileage i'll be done with this tires in 3-4yrs max, which will put them right at 6yrs age where i should be replacing them anyway. Plus, if i go for new ones that'll be a loss for tye tire place. What you guys have to say on that?


Should be a 25% discount right there (I always bring that up to the manager before paying and typically get some money on the table)

That said still plentiful life (my treads are going on 9 years old on one car)

Well, they gave me 10% off to begin with (return customer), but i guess i can ask for another 15% and see what happens

 

[parshisa]

According to Cooper's site tire service life is 10yrs. With new tires being 2yrs old i'm shy 20% of it's life, so the discount should be at least 20%. Makes sense and sounds reasonable. Although, according to that place's SA, they recommend no more than 6yrs. Which puts it at 33% discount. Sounds like i have solid negotiation grounds here

 

[tiger862]

May 21,2018 date on tire. On my 18 Caravan the date code is July 24,2017 with a build date of 12,2017. Point being is that the installer put 1 year 10 month tires on it which more than likely have been updated in that tire frame. I would not be happy but that being said at least have them put in writing that the tire warranty starts on install date as tire manufacturers generally start from date code. I bought a set of new Dunlop tires with road hazard and never looked at the fine print so when it came to warranty it was out by date code. Something to think about.

 

[vavavroom]

Originally Posted by oilpsi2high
Summer tires I replace when they're at the wear bars.

Snow tires get replaced when tread is below 50%. There are two sets of wear bars on these - I swap them when the 50% indicator shows.


That's what I do.

 

[Deamos]

4/32nds seems to be where I notice the Sorento is more prone to want to hydroplane. Once I'm down to 5/32nds I get busy reading about possible replacement tires and will buy the new set (once I've decided on my top couple possibilities) as soon as I see a good sale/deal on a desired set.

I really prefer the Sorento be sure footed as I don't shy away from driving in bad weather, and there are fairly frequent very heavy rains/thunderstorms in the warmer months in STL, I'd rather not be extra worried about skidding when I have to worry about all the numbskulls who are driving recklessly in the bad conditions.

One thing to note, I drive between 15000-20000 miles a year, so tires rarely last longer than about 3 years for me.

Haven't worn a set of tires down to the wear bars since I was in my late 20s.

 

[DGXR]

For myself, 1/16" because I drive in mostly dry and mild conditions at conservative speeds. For others, I would say to consider the road conditions. Snow, mud, etc. will have a major effect on traction and you will definitely need more than 1/16" tread depth.

 

[Luftmasse]

Originally Posted by DGXR
For myself, 1/16" because I drive in mostly dry and mild conditions at conservative speeds. For others, I would say to consider the road conditions. Snow, mud, etc. will have a major effect on traction and you will definitely need more than 1/16" tread depth.


You are quite gung-ho to be taking it to 1/32nds... it can pop any random given time.