What to mix with Mobil 1 4T?

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Scout1

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I found four qts. of Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w40 on the clearance table at Schucks for $1 per qt! I couldn't pass that up for my next change on my Yamaha FJR... problem is my FJR takes about 5 qts with a filter change.

So what would be a good oil to mix with this 4T oil? I have some Mobil 1 15w50 EP... think that would mix well?
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i wouldnt think it would be a problem. Or you could just get another quart of 4T and have all the same.
 
Your best option is the same 4t. Even ep is not that cheap and might have too much moly if it matters to you. And if it is your first time to try this oil better be consistent.
 
I mixed a quart of 20w50 Mobil 1 V-Twin along with 4oz. of MolaBrew Schaeffer/LubeControl mix and had the best shifting and lowest engine temps I've ever experienced. Running the amsoil MCF 10w40 hasn't produced the same transmission feel or reduced temps that the previous mix has produced.
 
Go get yourself some regular Mobil 1 10W-40. Even if it's loaded with moly, it's not going to make any difference mixed at 20% of the total.

For what it's worth, the Mobil 1 "Truck & SUV" 10W-40 doesn't make the clutch slip in THIS one.



5589FJR1300-07.JPG
 
Nice bike!
cheers.gif

Think the 10w40 Mobil 1 would make any difference from my 15w50 EP? The additive package on the EP looks pretty much the same as the 4T on the VOA page.
 
I was surprised to note that the Mobil 1 MX4T, which was the precursor to the Racing 4T had moly in it! So I'm assuming the Racing 4T has moly as well, although I can't find a VOA/UOA to confirm that...
 
I vote for HM m1 10w-40. As long as moly is under 100 it should not matter. Even Honda hp4 dino has that amount and both 4t and HM M1 are under 100 ppm.
What I really like about HM M1 is how easy and quiet(super quiet) is my 919 running at 9k rpm. It is amzing to me and put a grin on my face every time. No kidding.
 
Really, I think that 15W-50 should be reserved for air-cooled bikes. The 10W-40 is well suited for a water-coooled bike. In fact, my 2007 Gold Wing owner's manual recommends 10w30.
 
Either the new M1 15-50 or HM 10-40 is fine. Even the 5-40 T&SUV would be good. Personally, I like a 50/50 of Delvac and old M1 red cap 15-50. The red cap is probably still gathering dust at a local K-Mart near you. You may notice some clutch drag on cool mornings with the thicker oils until warmed up. It's harmless. kballowe, your Wing's engine is more like a Civic engine than a traditional bike engine. I'm not surprised they prefer a 10-30.
 
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kballowe, your Wing's engine is more like a Civic engine than a traditional bike engine. I'm not surprised they prefer a 10-30.

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Well it's an 1823cc flat-six cylinder SOHC 12-valve water-cooled motorcycle engine with an integrated transmission and wet clutch basket. I would think that my FJR1300 would be closer to the CVIC engine (SOHC I-4 16-valve).

Most of the metric bikes have overhead cams and share bearing designs, etc. with automotive engines. Then there's the water-cooling.

Seroiusly though, which part of the GL1800 engine reminds you of the CVIC engine? (both excellent engines).

Just asking.

I hear (a lot) "Hey - that's a Honda car engine, isn't it?" Technically, it's farther removed than many of the various metric in-line fours.

As far as running 10w30, I know several who went this route but don't have an oil analysis just yet. Might be OK but I can't help thinking about those huge gears in the Wing transmission pulling around 900 pounds of motorcycle shearing that 30 wt in 2K miles to what?

Probably unfounded fear. Still I'd like to find out.

All the previous years GL1800's and further back the GL1500's recommend 10W-40. They changed the recommendation in 2007 - although they say that 10W40 is still OK.
 
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As far as running 10w30, I know several who went this route but don't have an oil analysis just yet. Might be OK but I can't help thinking about those huge gears in the Wing transmission pulling around 900 pounds of motorcycle shearing that 30 wt in 2K miles to what?

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My opinion ... purely that ... is that they're specifying a 30-weight now to squeeze an extra percent or two for mileage or EPA reasons or something. You're right ... they still allow a 40-weight, which is what I'm sticking with.
 
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Go get yourself some regular Mobil 1 10W-40. Even if it's loaded with moly, it's not going to make any difference mixed at 20% of the total.

I assure you the Mobil1 4T 10w40 has as much moly as regular mobil 1 (around 70 ppm) which is by no means loaded with moly. Yes, many motorcycle oils have moly, just look at many of the oil analysises done.

Even the 200ppm in Chevron Delo 400 15w40 is not considered loaded with moly and has worked well in bikes.



5589FJR1300-07.JPG


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Update; I dumped the M1 Racing 4T into the FJR last night and since I only had 800 miles on the filter, I kept it on. The 4Qts of M1 filled it up nicely!

Its been relatively dry in Seattle the last couple of days (which is a rare thing this year) so I rode the bike to work yesterday and today. My old oil was a 20/50 wt. dino and I noticed the clutch a little sticky yesterday morning with the cold and thick oil (I've been fighting a delayed disengagement problem with this new clutch which is why I had switched to the dino a while back). With this new M1, the clutch worked perfectly from the start!
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Anyone know the group of this M1 4T oil? Is it group III or IV, or a little of both?
 
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I vote for HM m1 10w-40. As long as moly is under 100 it should not matter. Even Honda hp4 dino has that amount and both 4t and HM M1 are under 100 ppm.

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Can you back up the 100ppm limit on moly? Or are you simply seeing that Vtwin and 4T have ~90ppm moly, and making your judgment based on that?

Redline oils have ~700ppm moly and no reports of clutch slipping problems at all.

As I've stated before, some of us refuse to see past dealerspeak mumbo jumbo and bike shop mechanics ulitmate wisdom and warnings that get listed in dubious bike mags.

The truth is that the moly scare was brought about because some ancient formulas were actually using moly disulfide in the mix. The soluble forms of moly used in today's PCMOS, HDEO's, and the so called motorcycle oils, have not been reported to cause any sort of problems with wet clutches.

Yet the ridiculous controversy continues. And why? Because many folks seem to give a lot of weight to what dealerships, mechanics, and moto mags tell them. Even when there is plenty of evidence of what their telling us to be full of dung.
 
agree 100%, have never had a problem with the oils that "supossedly" have high moly count. The ned delo 400 had a lot of people scared because it had around 200ppm of moly
 
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