What product to restore paint "moisture"?

M

MichaelRS

Joined
Apr 29, 2017
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Orange County CA
First off, pardon me if I use the wrong, non-applicable expressions. I'm trying to explain it the best I can to get my point across.

My 2002 Sienna has pretty much been an outside car and I really have not been keeping up on the waxing as I should, therefore the paint is starting to look pretty...dry and I'm starting to worry about cracking and peeling.

I'm, obviously, not aware of how all this really works practically or chemically, but is there some sort of wax for other product that would in essence "moisturize" the paint to rehabilitate it or at least keep it from getting any worse?

I was thinking some decent Carnauba wax, but I thought I would ask the hive mind in case there was something better out there or a particular brand that might be better than another in this case.

I know that sounds funny, like applying lotion to one's skin, but I guess in essence that's what I'm asking about.
 
You could look in a marine / boating store's, polish and wax section. Your paint sounds like it's oxidised from being out doors in the Sun. They have polishes that will remove to top layers of burned paint ,and clean it off so a milder polish will bring the shine back. Years back my daughter had a black dodge omni that almost looked like it had flat paint on it. I used some of the polish I had for my boat on it, and it looked like new. You got nothing to loose at this point.,,,
 
BigCahuna said:
You could look in a marine / boating store's, polish and wax section. Your paint sounds like it's oxidised from being out doors in the Sun. They have polishes that will remove to top layers of burned paint ,and clean it off so a milder polish will bring the shine back. Years back my daughter had a black dodge omni that almost looked like it had flat paint on it. I used some of the polish I had for my boat on it, and it looked like new. You got nothing to loose at this point.,,,
Click to expand...
Can you or someone else recommend one? I'm in the same boat as the OP. The paint on my 88 E-150 is badly oxidized, the body is near perfect with no rust. I'd like to give something a shot.
 
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I'll just mention that cracked oil paint like the paintings of the old masters last longer than oil paintings that don't show cracks. :ROFLMAO:
 
There was a theory that paints would lose their oils or moisture, I guess back when paints were different. I think I’ve read that all that becomes moot when modern multi stage paints and clears are used.

Thus I don’t know if there is a lot of hope in using something like Meguiars #7, but it’s probably the best bet if you’re wanting to try something.

If it is oxidized clear, you probably actually want a compound to lightly remove the top layer.
 
If the paint is oxidized then a glaze isn't going to help. A glaze fills in small swirls and imperfections. If the paint is oxidized then you need a polish to cut down to clean paint again.
 
That's called an "Arizona paint job" when oxidized from being out in the sun.

For 10 years I've been using Turtle Wax Ice Spray Wax. It's a clear spray-on wax. You let it sit a bit and then wipe off. Pretty easy to do as it's a bit oily. I drench it on with like 2/3 of the bottle. Anyways, no way the paint will dry out. Some people don't like it because of that slight oiliness. Protects great in 120 degree desert heat being outside. Paint still looks new.
 
Sounds like the clearcoat is oxidized. I'd decontaminate the paint then correct it. You might need a multi-stage or single-stage correction depending on the defects and color of the car. I don't think that modern car paint can be "moisturized". The clearcoat is sorta like a hard clear plastic. Good pics would be nice to survey the damage.
 
This was the big thing about polyglycoat. It was a kit with carwash, wax, and some sealer that was like putting vitalis or bryll cream on your car. It made it really oily and greasy feeling. AND it was way overpriced. Hundreds of dollars in the 1970s and 80s vs a few bottle of old fashioned products like TR3 or similar- were 4-5$ and probably did a better job. I'm sure the dealer made 90% profit on it because they always put on high pressure to sell it----In the 50s and 60s with lacquers- the paint did dry out. Polyglycoat played on that- because car buyers could remember that-Even then they used enamels and started with clear coat---but had problems with formulations because they could no longer use lead---so you would see GM cars where paint peeled off in sheets-- todays modern 2 part urethanes and enamels all clear coated don't have any of those problems. Lacquer of course drys by evaporation of the solvents---and this continues--which is why it fades so badly after a few years esp in hot sun. Modern paints harden due to a chemical reaction.

I think the important thing is to keep that clear coat sealed with wax so it stays clean but it doesn't need any "oils or moisture"---unless its a lacquer.

I worked at a buick dealer getting cars ready ---which meant taking plastic off the seats, mats in , gasoline in, and of course the famous overpriced door edge guards, pin stripes, and polyglycoat on. It was already done making it almost impossible to negotiate it off. it took us about 5 minutes to put polyglycoat on- sometimes if a customer came we were told not to do it because of time. THey got charged---what a scam. I quit after a few of those little fiascos.
 
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We'd need a good picture, at an angle with a strong light across it showing the surface irregularities.

You probably need a polishing compound for damaged clear coat, then decide if enough clear coat remains or if the color coat is damaged and what the vehicle is worth. If damage goes into color coat then you consider stripping clear and polishing out the color then new clear coat.

If you just want to throw a wax on it, then I would get a polishing polymer sealant like Nufinish, applied with a wet buffer, being careful to keep it off of trim where it will leave a light film. Once that is done, consider whether you want a real wax on top of that for deeper shine or flaw hiding.

I'm stating that at this point, you can make it shinier and seal it, but just putting some wax on without any material removal at all, will slow down further damage rather than restore what is there.
 
Usually once it is oxidized to that extent, the paint needs to be refinished.

"rehydrating paint" is more of a concept for single stage finishes, not modern basecoat/clearcoat imo.
 
I think cleaner wax would be the most efficient way to go at it for your situation. Mothers, Meguiars all make good cleaner waxes and can be found in stores. I had good luck with Mothers.

Cleaner waxes are slightly different than standard waxes because cleaner waxes have additives that also polish the paint. Basically a polish + wax in one. Now the results will never be as good as a single stage or two stage paint correction + wax, but will be good enough to make a difference.
 
Automotive paint doesn't require moisturizer. 🙃 There are no volatile oils or anything like it that require conditioning. Paint suffers oxidation due to UV exposure, exposure to water, heat, cold, and contaminants. The finish will get dull over time. Keeping the finish clean and applying a sacrificial layer of protectant is all you can do. Eventually you will have to deoxidize and polish the finish to restore luster. Don't forget almost all modern automotive paint has a layer of clear coat on top of a very thin layer of paint. The times of thick automotive lacquers that could be buffed for many years without wearing through are gone.
 
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