What makes an engine require synthetic oil?

I’m really looking forward to @Glenda W. updates on if oil consumption returns for them or not after getting massive reduction using VRP. M1 had a small but consistent rate and then at some point after switching to Valvolive the consumption tanked. This already demonstrated a truth that even among “synthetics” there can be drastic differences in use; even if arguably the design and conditions driven contribute to the results. It would seem the oil choice can in fact matter.
 
I’m really looking forward to @Glenda W. updates on if oil consumption returns for them or not after getting massive reduction using VRP. M1 had a small but consistent rate and then at some point after switching to Valvolive the consumption tanked. This already demonstrated a truth that even among “synthetics” there can be drastic differences in use; even if arguably the design and conditions driven contribute to the results. It would seem the oil choice can in fact matter.
Still doing well. R&P cut consumption from 3 quarts per 5k miles to a 1/2 quart. Switching to ESP 0W-30 improved it to 1/4 quart per 5k miles. Most likely due to less volatility. So far holding steady after 15k miles on ESP.
 
Evidence? Smells like opinion...

Oils with higher volatility contribute more to piston deposits and ring coking, and more frequent intervals can result in burning more volatile compounds more frequently. Less heat tolerant base oils are more prone to varnish, a result of reactions between NOx and hydrocarbons at high temperature forming ketones and aldehydes which condensate to form polymeric compounds that oxidize into a resin. Base oils that are more stable at high temperature are less prone to such reactions. The higher amount of higher SSI VIIs is vulnerable to fuel dilution, as well as allowing for further drop in viscosity than from just fuel dilution. When you use higher quality base oils with a lower amount of more shear stable VII, this is less of a concern. There's also the limited research into the chemical stripping of anti-wear films from fresh detergents right after an oil change. Changing the oil more frequently can mean putting the engine through this cycle more frequently.
 
Oils with higher volatility contribute more to piston deposits and ring coking, and more frequent intervals can result in burning more volatile compounds more frequently. Less heat tolerant base oils are more prone to varnish, a result of reactions between NOx and hydrocarbons at high temperature forming ketones and aldehydes which condensate to form polymeric compounds that oxidize into a resin. Base oils that are more stable at high temperature are less prone to such reactions. The higher amount of higher SSI VIIs is vulnerable to fuel dilution, as well as allowing for further drop in viscosity than from just fuel dilution. When you use higher quality base oils with a lower amount of more shear stable VII, this is less of a concern. There's also the limited research into the chemical stripping of anti-wear films from fresh detergents right after an oil change. Changing the oil more frequently can mean putting the engine through this cycle more frequently.

Very interesting. Gives us something to think about.
 
This looks about the same for our Carnival with the 3.5, NA lists 0W-20 only yet international shows 5W-30 is fine as well.

I went with M1 AFE 0W-30 for its first oil change and winter OCI. For summer, may switch to either ESP 0W-30 or Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30.
Smart
 
I have never seen a designer oil fix a known engine design problem.
Maybe this isn't the point you're making, but pretty documented here that some Subaru engines will burn oil with high quality OTS synthetics, but they will run problem-free for 400k and beyond on boutiques. There was even a report of a rural mail carrier (so very severe service, very short stop n go for all miles) with no issues on Amsoil at over 400k. Yet they will reliably burn on Valvoline EP and even the BITOG favorite M1 EP after a while.

Good reports coming out with Hyundai/Kia engines doing well on Valvoline Restore and Protect too when they will burn anything and everything.
 
Maybe this isn't the point you're making, but pretty documented here that some Subaru engines will burn oil with high quality OTS synthetics, but they will run problem-free for 400k and beyond on boutiques. There was even a report of a rural mail carrier (so very severe service, very short stop n go for all miles) with no issues on Amsoil at over 400k. Yet they will reliably burn on Valvoline EP and even the BITOG favorite M1 EP after a while.

Good reports coming out with Hyundai/Kia engines doing well on Valvoline Restore and Protect too when they will burn anything and everything.
Yes. I’m 100% confident the poorly designed low tension ring problems can be completely avoided on Subaru’s(and many others) with oil choice. I’m expecting to never see oil consumption again on the way to 300k.
 
It it for longer oci? Specific type of timing chain? Any other things?


Our 2013 can am calls for a synthetic 5w40 year round. Imo I'd rather use a 10w-40 in it or maybe a 10w-30. Why can't I use a non synthetic in it?
not a requirement synthetics are just getting easier to manufacture in today’s market so they’re becoming more the norm these days. Synthetics are known to take factory oil change intervals to 10k, provide better thermal stability, better flow at low temperatures and retain the molecular structure throughout the duration the oil is in service within reason. Things like fuel dilution towing lots of idling or track use are things that would beat down the synthetic quicker or require a shorter oil change interval. That’s my point of view on synthetic oil. As for your can am not necessary to go out of manufactures recommendation on 5W40 full synthetic. And what do you feel you would be achieving not using synthetic in another viscosity? The engine was designed around that viscosity and synthetic.
 
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