What is the best 5w30 oil I can buy at Walmart?

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Originally Posted By: gotnogunk
We have QS synthetic for 15.00/5qt can't beat that, MC at 11.50/5qt.


thats without a rebate?
 
Originally Posted By: Bigsyke
I didnt see T6 at all in any of those lists.


That might have a little something to do with T6 not being available in 5w30.
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Originally Posted By: biodiesel
Originally Posted By: Bigsyke
I didnt see T6 at all in any of those lists.


That might have a little something to do with T6 not being available in 5w30.
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Shell T6 info
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Originally Posted By: bepperb
1. M1EP or Castrol Edge or Pennzoil Ultra.
2. whatever has a rebate
3. PYB, at least for now since it's the only one with ILSAC GF-5 rating.
4. Probably still Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, though Valvoline has a rebate that could make it cheap.


I second all of this, but for number 4 I would change it to Quaker State or Mobil Clean 5000.
 
Santo Fontana -
When you "better" define "best" then I'll give you a "better" answer of which one is "best" ...

I'm not being facetious. Even if you remove price from the equation, you still need to define other operating and conditional issues. However, the reality is that you cannot remove price from the equation, because even among synthetics, there are cost variables.

I am assuming that you are presuming there is some magical measuring stick that will fit all situations and give one golden answer. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Further, it's reasonably apparent to me that most oils perform to about the same level in short-to-moderate OCIs. Even when considering "synthetics", you still have to define the surrounding conditions. My point is that synthetics are often "over capable" for given situations. They can only perform to a level that is submitted to them. They cannot "clean" an already-clean engine any "better". They cannot reduce "wear" moreso than their counterparts, when the wear rate is already low. Likely, there are small nuiances that would should up in lab conditions; yes. But real world scenarios simply don't produce an image that would cast a shadow large enough to call one "best" over the others.

Here's an example: Currently, I can get synthetic QS at Menards for $2/qrt! That's a smokin' deal, to be sure. Or, I could run out and get some Mobil 1 EP. If I only use them for a 3k mile OCI, which one is "best". Heck if I know??? Heck if I care!!! Neither of them will be used to anywhere near to their full potential, as even a lowly house brand would suffice.

You CANNOT remove cost as a factor in the real world. The key to understanding this is that once a minimum safe level of performance is set and attained, anything above that is a waste. Any synthetic that outperforms your "need" is not utilized to it's full potential, and therefore is a waste. If you chose 4 synthetics and ran them side by side in a 3k mile OCI, each one would have some "winners and losers" in the wear catagoy, but they ALL would be more than capable. You'd have to study them in hundreds of UOAs in identical situations to call one "best". Can't be done in the real world.

You have not defined the OCI, severity, maintenance plan or anything else.

This makes for interesting internet chatter, but just realize that no concrete answer shall come of it.
 
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M1 5-30 and M1 5-30EP are two of the best oils anywhere. M1 5-30 meets the Honda HTO-06 spec. which is a high temp. spec that very few oils meet. Outstanding for deposit control. Also it meets the ACEA A5 long drain spec.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: biodiesel
Originally Posted By: Bigsyke
I didnt see T6 at all in any of those lists.


That might have a little something to do with T6 not being available in 5w30.
56.gif



Shell T6 info
thumbsup2.gif



Was that link for me or Bigsyke?

I only see T6 available in 5w40, not 5w30. Am I missing something?
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Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
i always thought it was heavy duty engine oil but not sure. figure its supposed to have a beefed up maybe more old school add pack. more sheer resistant, on the thick side for its vis rating....might not meet warranty requirements.


As long as the oil is SM-rated (or whatever your engine might require) and in the correct viscosity grade (10W-30, etc), you should be good to go.
 
To me, "best" means the best result for the money spent. imo, dino oil that gets changes 2x as often for the same cost as one fill of synth is "best" because it gives the best result. Clean engine and fresh friction modifiers. That leaves much of the question moot.
 
I have to chuckle at all the recommendations for Pennz Ultra. Two UOAs posted so far?

It may be the best thing since sliced bread, but it hasn't been on the market long enough to earn a recommendation as "best" anything.
 
Any of the above has the same effect if you keep the oci's under 4-5K miles or less. Oils todays are so much better then in the past that dumpimg them before 5K miles really is a waste.

I do usually use syn but I can not keep it in for more then 5K miles because I like changing the oil. Going conventional and keeping it under 4-5K miles is really the way to go...
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Santo Fontana -
When you "better" define "best" then I'll give you a "better" answer of which one is "best" ...

I'm not being facetious. Even if you remove price from the equation, you still need to define other operating and conditional issues. However, the reality is that you cannot remove price from the equation, because even among synthetics, there are cost variables.

I am assuming that you are presuming there is some magical measuring stick that will fit all situations and give one golden answer. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Further, it's reasonably apparent to me that most oils perform to about the same level in short-to-moderate OCIs. Even when considering "synthetics", you still have to define the surrounding conditions. My point is that synthetics are often "over capable" for given situations. They can only perform to a level that is submitted to them. They cannot "clean" an already-clean engine any "better". They cannot reduce "wear" moreso than their counterparts, when the wear rate is already low. Likely, there are small nuiances that would should up in lab conditions; yes. But real world scenarios simply don't produce an image that would cast a shadow large enough to call one "best" over the others.

Here's an example: Currently, I can get synthetic QS at Menards for $2/qrt! That's a smokin' deal, to be sure. Or, I could run out and get some Mobil 1 EP. If I only use them for a 3k mile OCI, which one is "best". Heck if I know??? Heck if I care!!! Neither of them will be used to anywhere near to their full potential, as even a lowly house brand would suffice.

You CANNOT remove cost as a factor in the real world. The key to understanding this is that once a minimum safe level of performance is set and attained, anything above that is a waste. Any synthetic that outperforms your "need" is not utilized to it's full potential, and therefore is a waste. If you chose 4 synthetics and ran them side by side in a 3k mile OCI, each one would have some "winners and losers" in the wear catagoy, but they ALL would be more than capable. You'd have to study them in hundreds of UOAs in identical situations to call one "best". Can't be done in the real world.

You have not defined the OCI, severity, maintenance plan or anything else.

This makes for interesting internet chatter, but just realize that no concrete answer shall come of it.



I did describe the vehicles and the oci's, just not in the 1st post. Just trying to spark up some conversation and possibly uncover a good "deal". I have been around cars long enough to know that not changing your oil enough or with good enough oil is just about the least likely way to kill an engine....but I still dont understand your first sentence.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
To me, "best" means the best result for the money spent. imo, dino oil that gets changes 2x as often for the same cost as one fill of synth is "best" because it gives the best result. Clean engine and fresh friction modifiers. That leaves much of the question moot.


thats a good point if you dont mind changing oil all the time.
 
The best if money is no object,I say RP. The best oil for the money,I`d say a tie between Valvoline wb and Pennzoil yb.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I have to chuckle at all the recommendations for Pennz Ultra. Two UOAs posted so far?

It may be the best thing since sliced bread, but it hasn't been on the market long enough to earn a recommendation as "best" anything.



Maybe because Pennzoil has always done well with their oils in the past few decades and people trust them more than the other oil companies.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I have to chuckle at all the recommendations for Pennz Ultra. Two UOAs posted so far?

It may be the best thing since sliced bread, but it hasn't been on the market long enough to earn a recommendation as "best" anything.



Maybe because Pennzoil has always done well with their oils in the past few decades and people trust them more than the other oil companies.

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Originally Posted By: zddp77
Stay away from Warren PP too many quailty control problems ... they make Supertech synthetic. Valvoline Synpower is $20.00 for 5 quarts thats an excellent deal.

the walmart in bloomington in displays who oil is supposidly supplied by....and they have warren listed for motorcraft synblend too.....if or if not its accurate..idk, but made me drop mc
 
Originally Posted By: biodiesel

Was that link for me or Bigsyke?

I only see T6 available in 5w40, not 5w30. Am I missing something?
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Bigsyke. Agreeing with you.
 
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