I think these V6 Rav4's were about 6.3 second 0-60's but I don't stomp on it very much as the gas mileage is not very good. Last gas fillup was about 25mpg and most of those miles are highway.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Worked on the dual Troybilt Ponys.. the 2012 $3xx has the 17.5 Briggs and 2015 $1xx has the 15.5 Briggs. The $1xx supposedly had a blown engine. Actually it was hydrolocked and full of gas and I mean full. Leaking through the crank and all. Had garbage in the needle seat. It smoked for 15 minutes once I got it started. It only starts on brake fluid so don’t if the original plug is weak or didn’t get the carb back right, I’ll try the plug first. Other than that seems perfect.
Put the $11 belt bracket on the $3xx one now the belt doesn’t come off every time. Also fixed the battery cables and charged the battery and now it starts. Not seeing any other issues. So now have three Pony’s 08, 12 and 15. The trans fork in the 08 is shot and pretty bad shape overall so it might be parts. I think my mower issue is solved LOL!
Put the $11 belt bracket on the $3xx one now the belt doesn’t come off every time. Also fixed the battery cables and charged the battery and now it starts. Not seeing any other issues. So now have three Pony’s 08, 12 and 15. The trans fork in the 08 is shot and pretty bad shape overall so it might be parts. I think my mower issue is solved LOL!
Trying to cure my hangover.
Became a victim of my own hubris today......2012 Silverado 2500HD L96/6L90E, Bunch of O2 sensor high circuit & no activity codes.
All 4 O2 voltage PIDs were stuck at 1890 mV (Cold, Key on engine off) which was a huge red flag to me as GM has used a 500 mV bias voltage since the stone age, Some circuit testing concluded that the PCM is sending out a 1890 mV bias voltage & reading some service information confirmed this was normal.
Has 4 Wuhan Institute of Stoichiometric's O2 sensors installed...Shotgunned a Denso Bank 1 Sensor 1 at it to confirm....Fixed it with 3 more Denso O2 sensors.
All 4 O2 voltage PIDs were stuck at 1890 mV (Cold, Key on engine off) which was a huge red flag to me as GM has used a 500 mV bias voltage since the stone age, Some circuit testing concluded that the PCM is sending out a 1890 mV bias voltage & reading some service information confirmed this was normal.
Has 4 Wuhan Institute of Stoichiometric's O2 sensors installed...Shotgunned a Denso Bank 1 Sensor 1 at it to confirm....Fixed it with 3 more Denso O2 sensors.
You do realize this ain’t the what ya stuffing face with thread right bro??
Eating ain’t “mechanical”
Got the timing cover reinstalled on the Corolla HG job.
I also decided to drop the lower oil pan to clean out the sludge. Good thing I did:
I also decided to drop the lower oil pan to clean out the sludge. Good thing I did:
It is to me, as Bert Kreisher said, "Im the Machine"
https://media.tenor.com/DveAnFDCIHQAAAAM/bert-kreischer-i-am-the-machine.gif
Oddly enough, we have tested some of the Wuhan air fuel sensors on VQ engines and they work excellent. Not saying they'd be my first choice, but sometimes you get lucky.
Lmao at Wuhan Institute
First saw it in a D60 post.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
So, time for some Sequoia love in my attempt to deal with things I delayed for some time. After Brake flush on BMW, gearbox fluid, ground cable, and spark plugs, as well as brake fluid on Tiguan, it was time for brake fluid on Sequoia and adjusting the parking brake.
So I did not take any photos of adjusting the brakes. I cannot remember when I had such a frustrating job at hands. I know that 2nd generation Tundra/Sequoia are notorious for weak parking brakes, meaning, they need adjusting over time, but this was really pain in you know what.
The nut that secures the mechanism from sliding is absolutely welded to the cable. I spent half a can of PB and nothing. I managed to move it a bit after like 2 hours, but it was getting dark, and I decided to just leave it at that. Brake is a bit better, but I will need to tackle this again.
Before that, I managed to flush brake fluid:
So I did not take any photos of adjusting the brakes. I cannot remember when I had such a frustrating job at hands. I know that 2nd generation Tundra/Sequoia are notorious for weak parking brakes, meaning, they need adjusting over time, but this was really pain in you know what.
The nut that secures the mechanism from sliding is absolutely welded to the cable. I spent half a can of PB and nothing. I managed to move it a bit after like 2 hours, but it was getting dark, and I decided to just leave it at that. Brake is a bit better, but I will need to tackle this again.
Before that, I managed to flush brake fluid:
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,221
This week I've done a lot of link bars, and it's taken me a lot longer than usual because I've been drilling and tapping them in addition to cutting, facing to length, skimming and chamfering. Also had two sets (4 each) of steering knuckles that needed clearance bored for axle clearance. Doesn't seem like much for a week, but I ran pretty much non-stop this week.
Last night I replaced the hammer spring in my model 36 Smith and Wesson. Hopefully I'll make it out to the range today.
Last night I replaced the hammer spring in my model 36 Smith and Wesson. Hopefully I'll make it out to the range today.
I finally got back to the NV4500 rebuild. Once cleaned, I found first gear had some damage from shrapnel.
Not wanting to order yet more parts, I mocked it up and reasoned it out (questionable as this requires use of the mostly vacant space between my ears) -- the only thing that lives near there is a snap ring in a groove which -- by its very nature -- simply cannot move. So, nothing rides against that damaged surface; it's just air (or lube) space.
Curiously, the snap ring was undamaged and there was NO other damage in that area. However, I'm beginning to suspect someone has been in here before and this damage may have been present since rebuild #1.
Now, despite my "confidence" that nothing touches that surface I still thought it should at least be flat. I first chucked up the gear and attempted to face the high points, but it laughed at my Kennametal inserts. Ultimately I took it down with my 2" grinder and finished it off with a 2" Roloc woven abrasive (far from any bearings of course).
Not wanting to order yet more parts, I mocked it up and reasoned it out (questionable as this requires use of the mostly vacant space between my ears) -- the only thing that lives near there is a snap ring in a groove which -- by its very nature -- simply cannot move. So, nothing rides against that damaged surface; it's just air (or lube) space.
Curiously, the snap ring was undamaged and there was NO other damage in that area. However, I'm beginning to suspect someone has been in here before and this damage may have been present since rebuild #1.
Now, despite my "confidence" that nothing touches that surface I still thought it should at least be flat. I first chucked up the gear and attempted to face the high points, but it laughed at my Kennametal inserts. Ultimately I took it down with my 2" grinder and finished it off with a 2" Roloc woven abrasive (far from any bearings of course).
Got the two newer Ponys down to the place. Maiden mow was somewhat successful. The 12 was all or nothing on the speed. Put a washer to get rid of the slop. The steering pivot broke so pulled that piece from the 08. Nothing for the $100 2015 except the battery from the 08. Think it has a bent blade but I got a extra set with the 12 and the 08’s are new. Could be the engine but the 15.5 seems to run ok, the 08 has a good 17.5 so could just swap them. When did they start putting reverse lock outs when the blade is turning? That was annoying.. was might be the word. Got to say with two mowers got done in no time!
Left to right.. 15 - 12 - 8 .. less than $500 all together
Left to right.. 15 - 12 - 8 .. less than $500 all together
Replaced leaking harness on '11 Ally. The last one I did was an '08 but the engineers decided to make some changes in '11, moving what I believe is solenoid G (for line pressure? maybe?) and a shift solenoid directly behind where you need to shove the internal harness bulkhead for removal.
At first I was sure I was going to have to remove the upper shift solenoid and I was about to go crying to @clinebarger for advice because accessing the clip looks like a game of Blind Operation.
However it turns out it's more like Jenga because if you rotate the bulkhead such that the flat faces the driver side, you can just squeeze past those new, upper solenoids. You still have to pull the lower right trim solenoid but I had already done that before on the prior 2008.
At first I was sure I was going to have to remove the upper shift solenoid and I was about to go crying to @clinebarger for advice because accessing the clip looks like a game of Blind Operation.
However it turns out it's more like Jenga because if you rotate the bulkhead such that the flat faces the driver side, you can just squeeze past those new, upper solenoids. You still have to pull the lower right trim solenoid but I had already done that before on the prior 2008.
Corolla Headgasket is complete. Let’s just say engine reassembly should not be a group activity.
It runs perfect…for now. Total investment for the Fel-Pro HG kit, oil, oil filter, RTV, and various o-rings and gaskets from dealer was $208.
I refilled with Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W20, hopefully that will clean up more of the sludge. We wiped up a lot sludge from the interior of the upper oil pan.
It runs perfect…for now. Total investment for the Fel-Pro HG kit, oil, oil filter, RTV, and various o-rings and gaskets from dealer was $208.
I refilled with Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W20, hopefully that will clean up more of the sludge. We wiped up a lot sludge from the interior of the upper oil pan.
Last edited:
We have the basis of functional attic storage. Son and I installed a new 3 way switch at the new door, and wired in 3 lights throughout the space. The first items got placed up there today. It’s not a huge space about 8x16, but for suitcases, artificial tree and seasonal stuff it should be right. We keep our cars in the garage.
Thankfully the cars are running and dont need anything. Oh I did tear a couple of large gashes in the stock Michelin primacy tires on the Tacoma, but only in the tread. 4Lo works!
Thankfully the cars are running and dont need anything. Oh I did tear a couple of large gashes in the stock Michelin primacy tires on the Tacoma, but only in the tread. 4Lo works!
Reinstalled the cylinder head, new lifters, pushrods, valve cover gaskets, the Toro is running great. In went a Fram 3600 and 10w30 Supertech semi synthetic. Put about 30 minutes on it driving around the ranch doing errands.
The hardest task was trying to screw in the oil drain plug. I had to concoct about 3 feet of extensions to reach it.