I'm OBD1ing 
Such a 1900s activity
Where's my QuadraJet TPS adjustment tool
Back to eBay I go
Such a 1900s activity
Where's my QuadraJet TPS adjustment tool
Back to eBay I go
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Installed a replacement gas cap on the Grand Caravan due to the 13 year old original having a flattened out gasket. It also felt loose when tightened down. New one, in yellow since it is a flex fuel van, with the tether.
Not much else I can do. My niece has essentially purchased the van from me, and I’m taking her 2008 Town and Country with a 3.8 and cash. I plan to salvage bits off the old van for sale. I’m not certain but the engine (with yellow writing on it, telling me it’s not original) is exhausting wisps of steam and is covered in oil. It doesn’t overheat and still has decent power for what it is… nice even, smooth idle. No DTCs, and nothing else going on with it. But she has decided that she would rather use my van with all issues sorted than worry that the 2008 will breakdown. With a 1 year old son, I’d rather she have something reliable too.
With 233k miles, maybe it’s recycling is the financially prudent decision.
Not much else I can do. My niece has essentially purchased the van from me, and I’m taking her 2008 Town and Country with a 3.8 and cash. I plan to salvage bits off the old van for sale. I’m not certain but the engine (with yellow writing on it, telling me it’s not original) is exhausting wisps of steam and is covered in oil. It doesn’t overheat and still has decent power for what it is… nice even, smooth idle. No DTCs, and nothing else going on with it. But she has decided that she would rather use my van with all issues sorted than worry that the 2008 will breakdown. With a 1 year old son, I’d rather she have something reliable too.
With 233k miles, maybe it’s recycling is the financially prudent decision.
2000 Cavalier came to me with zero charge in the a/c. The only place I could see that was leaking was the high side valve core, but I went ahead and replaced that core, the two seals at the compressor, and both o-rings at the condenser connections.
Also the orifice tube, which was pretty disgusting and I don't know if that's indicative of other problems?
System is working good now, about 42-45F at the center vent, but yesterday was cloudy and cool (65F at time of charging), so I don't know how it'll perform in summer heat.
I was already replacing the RH marker lamp, and I found access to the high side port easier with right headlamp removed, which comes out in about 3 seconds (two bolts)
I've got new headlamps coming from O'Reilly today -- I've had mixed results with "restoring" old lenses. It'll be a thank you to my neighbor who has essentially given me his really nice log splitter for six years even though I'm technically "borrowing" it
Also, so far the Robinair manifold set would appear better than the Mastercool I tried and returned because it was giving inexplicably (impossibly) high readings on the high side, and Mastercool tech support had no interest in anything other than getting me off the phone.
Also the orifice tube, which was pretty disgusting and I don't know if that's indicative of other problems?
System is working good now, about 42-45F at the center vent, but yesterday was cloudy and cool (65F at time of charging), so I don't know how it'll perform in summer heat.
I was already replacing the RH marker lamp, and I found access to the high side port easier with right headlamp removed, which comes out in about 3 seconds (two bolts)
I've got new headlamps coming from O'Reilly today -- I've had mixed results with "restoring" old lenses. It'll be a thank you to my neighbor who has essentially given me his really nice log splitter for six years even though I'm technically "borrowing" it
Also, so far the Robinair manifold set would appear better than the Mastercool I tried and returned because it was giving inexplicably (impossibly) high readings on the high side, and Mastercool tech support had no interest in anything other than getting me off the phone.
Replaced the internal lead acid battery in an older Diehard "800 amp" jump starter that's been laying around the garage. $29.99 for a Mighty Max branded battery from Amazon and I was back in business.
Similar models sell new for $99-$129, so I'm happy with $30 and keeping e-waste out of the ocean. Plus, having a working jump starter on hand is always handy.
Similar models sell new for $99-$129, so I'm happy with $30 and keeping e-waste out of the ocean. Plus, having a working jump starter on hand is always handy.
The plug and coil on cyl 4 (passenger side rear) is fun because of the battery location. I was an idiot and made the positive post into an arc welder for a couple seconds since I didn't want to take the battery out like I usually do.Wow. Ford could barley get that engine between the wheels. Bet its fun to smash the pedal on a nice strip of highway.
Got pipe laid.
I have a set of Robinair manifold gauges that look identical to those that I've been using since 2006 and I've never had any issues from them. I actually have three sets of them. I bought the 2006 gauges new and another set new that I use for R12 systems and I found my other set at a garage sale in like new condition. My vacuum pump is also a Robinair brand bought in 2006 that still works like new. I do change the oil in it after every use.2000 Cavalier came to me with zero charge in the a/c. The only place I could see that was leaking was the high side valve core, but I went ahead and replaced that core, the two seals at the compressor, and both o-rings at the condenser connections.
Also the orifice tube, which was pretty disgusting and I don't know if that's indicative of other problems?
System is working good now, about 42-45F at the center vent, but yesterday was cloudy and cool (65F at time of charging), so I don't know how it'll perform in summer heat.
I was already replacing the RH marker lamp, and I found access to the high side port easier with right headlamp removed, which comes out in about 3 seconds (two bolts)
I've got new headlamps coming from O'Reilly today -- I've had mixed results with "restoring" old lenses. It'll be a thank you to my neighbor who has essentially given me his really nice log splitter for six years even though I'm technically "borrowing" it
Also, so far the Robinair manifold set would appear better than the Mastercool I tried and returned because it was giving inexplicably (impossibly) high readings on the high side, and Mastercool tech support had no interest in anything other than getting me off the phone.
View attachment 216146
My 2014 Mustang GT only has 36,000 miles on it so it's not quite ready for plugs or coils yet but I did bookmark those set of coils you gave the link to and wrote down those plug numbers.
Plugs are super easy to do on these. The torque spec on the plugs is 14Nm / 124 in-lbs and the coil bolts are 6Nm / 53 in-lbs. Pulling the battery and the battery tray will make #4 easier. Also be very careful with the coil connectors. They use a red locking tab that is very easy to break. I have the SnapOn small picks and the right angle one slid under the coil side of the connector helps release the connector from the coil. I also put a schmear of dielectric grease on the little tabs that hold on the coil covers and the engine cover, helps them pop off easier next time.
Interesting, is it SOP to change the oil regularly/every time? Does it absorb moisture from the system?
I did notice it made a lot of popping sounds and let some smoke (presumably steam?) out of the vent as soon as I started pumping the system. This stopped and it ran for about 1.5 hours yesterday so I don't think it's the pump dying.
Also, best source for oil?
Thanks for the tips and info. I have the small Snap-on picks so that is good to know. I have heard that about the red locking tabs so I will definitely be careful when I do have to do the job.
The owner's manual for my pump says to change the oil after every use. Some people claim that you don't have to, but my pump was pretty expensive, so I want to make sure it lives as long as possible. The oil does absorb moisture from the system. I guess how much is dependent on how much air is in the system.
It is also normal to see steam come out the vent initially during the evacuation procedure. Mine does the same.
I usually evacuate for 30 minutes and then shut the manifold valves and turn off the pump and let it sit for around 15 minutes and see if the vacuum decays. I then evacuate for another 15 minutes and let it sit again for another 15 minutes. If no decay, I then recharge the system. So normally, my pump only runs for about 45 minutes total.
I only use Robinair oil in mine and buy it off of Amazon. I buy the gallon jugs. Its not cheap but like I said, my pump was pretty expensive back then and still expensive now. This is the pump I have.
Fittin' PVC
It's been raining solid for 3 days........we started getting mini breaks so I got all the PVC cut and fitted.
Right in time UPS shows up. BUT - UGH sent the wrong size hanger rings, too small. For 1/2" pipe. Ugg.
It's been raining solid for 3 days........we started getting mini breaks so I got all the PVC cut and fitted.
Right in time UPS shows up. BUT - UGH sent the wrong size hanger rings, too small. For 1/2" pipe. Ugg.
Plugs on 2014 CRV. Piece of cake. Oem spec calls for 0.046 gap, but the plugs that came out measured between 0.040 and 0.042. Seems to have cured a stumble on foot-down giddyup! Took maybe 25 minutes. Had to buy a smaller plug socket - these plugs are small enough to be in an R/C airplane.
Plugs on 2018 2.7 ecoboost. Conversely, 3.5 hours. Ford conveniently runs the wiring harness and a large cooling line immediately over the coil packs, in a surprisingly cheaply made wiring harness - a tape-wrapped harness, held down with zip ties. Similar to a bmw, a bunch of things have to come off in layers, and you’re still forced to wrestle and stretch so awkwardly for the plugs at the firewall - the passenger rear plug is a pita.
If you own one of these, don’t order the coil pack boots from RA, they will sell you something that Does Not Fit.
Plugs struggled to unscrew. Engine has 67k on it, some towing. Gap on the old plugs was very consistent and still within spec, but I was glad to get these out if nothing else but to make sure they didn’t get welded in. I don’t care what ford and NGK say, a very small amount of anti-seize was used on reassembly - ford doesn’t have a great history with threads in heads and this was suspicious. (Zero galling, zero debris, no damage today, and everything was done cold). I can see why ford purists say to do this every 30k - the gaps may not need it but it may be good practice.
One of these topside creepers would have been wonderful
Plugs on 2018 2.7 ecoboost. Conversely, 3.5 hours. Ford conveniently runs the wiring harness and a large cooling line immediately over the coil packs, in a surprisingly cheaply made wiring harness - a tape-wrapped harness, held down with zip ties. Similar to a bmw, a bunch of things have to come off in layers, and you’re still forced to wrestle and stretch so awkwardly for the plugs at the firewall - the passenger rear plug is a pita.
If you own one of these, don’t order the coil pack boots from RA, they will sell you something that Does Not Fit.
Plugs struggled to unscrew. Engine has 67k on it, some towing. Gap on the old plugs was very consistent and still within spec, but I was glad to get these out if nothing else but to make sure they didn’t get welded in. I don’t care what ford and NGK say, a very small amount of anti-seize was used on reassembly - ford doesn’t have a great history with threads in heads and this was suspicious. (Zero galling, zero debris, no damage today, and everything was done cold). I can see why ford purists say to do this every 30k - the gaps may not need it but it may be good practice.
One of these topside creepers would have been wonderful
Yesterday, jump started the LS with the Camaro and let both idle while I pulled weeds along the gate path. Before putting the Camaro back in the garage, I drove it around for a bit. Re-connected the BatteryMinder.
Not to strenuous today; connected another BatteryMinder to the LS.
The LS has been parked for a while and the battery died enough to prevent remote unlocking. Not doubt, it wasn't going to start. I figured a bit of de-sulphation is in order. Yes, I broke my rule of thumb - if it's going to sit for more than 14 days, hook up a maintainer.
Not to strenuous today; connected another BatteryMinder to the LS.
The LS has been parked for a while and the battery died enough to prevent remote unlocking. Not doubt, it wasn't going to start. I figured a bit of de-sulphation is in order. Yes, I broke my rule of thumb - if it's going to sit for more than 14 days, hook up a maintainer.
From a few days ago: front engine mount on the cousin’s 03 Accord 2.4. It took me a while to remember the secret handshake for removing these without draining the cooling system, but I got it done in about an hr.
