What are the best brake pads to get locally?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
1,228
Location
Cleveland
Doing a brake job this weekend, and usually in the past I have enough lead-time to order some Hawk HPS pads and such. It was somewhat last minute, so I will have to stop at an auto store to grab some brake pads.

Around me, I have Autozone, Murray's Auto Parts, Advanced Auto Parts... I think that sums it up.

I just need pads that grab and perform nicely... Dust is really not an issue at all. Will be used in a 2005 Mazda 3i.

Any suggestions? Don't need the most high end pad, but don't want sketchy quality either.

I also have the change the coolant... I am planning at stopping at the dealer to get the FL-22 coolant, but are some store-brands just as good? Dealer wants $24 a gallon.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Dealer. No reason to think about this at all. Get the real Mazda ones, not the value line stuff.
Also, some Mazda 3s tend to have aggressive pad compounds this will wear rotors quickly. Check the rotor thickness before slapping pads on.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Critic is right, unless they want like $90 for the factory pads.


That's probably how much the Mazda factory pads are, unless you get their Value line stuff.

An extra $50-$100 is always worth it, to do the job right the first time.
 
Sounds good guys. Thanks.

HAWK HPS pads and powerslot rotors on there now that I did at like 65,000. Last time I looked, the rotors were in great shape. Currently at 110,000 I believe. The car only sees maybe 3,000-4,000 miles a year, if that... So it is not exactly an important daily driver.

I will quote the pads when I pick up the coolant. Hopefully not too bad pricing wise.
 
Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads.
Cheap from AAP with coupon code and I've been happy with them on the three cars I've used them on.
Go to the dealer?
I've never had a set of replacement pads last as long as the factory pads on any car we've bought new.
Problem is that the service pads won't be the same as the factory pads, so you'll pay more but not necessarily get more.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads.
Cheap from AAP with coupon code and I've been happy with them on the three cars I've used them on.

Those have been iffy, though the newest version of the ThermoQuiets seem to be better.

The main problem with TQs is the built-in shim design that they use for many applications. The piston tends to wear away the shim, causing noise problems after a year or two.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27

Go to the dealer?
I've never had a set of replacement pads last as long as the factory pads on any car we've bought new.
Problem is that the service pads won't be the same as the factory pads, so you'll pay more but not necessarily get more.

That isn't always true. Mazda has the real OE pads and their Value Line. Ford has two lines, GM has two lines and now Toyota has two lines too. Honda only has 1 line, thankfully.

The aftermarket pads in general, simply do not have the correct shim design for noise control so your results are a hit/miss. This is especially an issue for Toyota and Nissan, where the OE shim design a two-piece stainless steel shim with a rubber insert; the aftermarket design will usually be a one-piece.
 
I just bought a set of metallics from International Auto Parts. I had 2 choices, the 20$ pads and the 42$ pads. In a fit of largess, I went high. The pads are made in Canada. They are sitting on the counter, I will put them in tomorrow. I normally use PBR deluxes, or Pagids, whatever they call themselves today. The rotor is toast, but Ive got several to choose from. My son has been driving the car and he told me about a scraping noise. I haven't been driving the car, so I took a run to the store. Gawd, what a horrible noise. But as bad as it sounds, it will be an inexpensive repair and a fun Saturday project. The RR caliper is probably stuck, but I came across a bucket full of rear calipers and a serviceable rotor in the shed. And that was just in the top layer of stuff. Ive got the liquids and lubes necessary for some TLC The brakes on a 528e are perfectly adequate for daily driving. The go fast guys go for 7 series or bigger for brakes. I run 14" all season tires and cant fit a bigger set up. Get a cheap set from AZ, etc. When it is more convenient, re pad with the good pads. Cheap pads usually stop OK, but they are dusty. Quel damage! Big freaken deal. If It really bothers you, paint the wheels dark gray matte.
laugh.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: The Critic

The main problem with TQs is the built-in shim design that they use for many applications. The piston tends to wear away the shim, causing noise problems after a year or two.


What he said, I installed these on an Explorer as many said they were the same as the factory pad.

Three months later I had to pull them off, junk !

On all my cars I now use Raybestos ATD series (Advanced Technology) Ceramic Disc Brake Pad and Raybestos ATD rotors. Have been using these for years and on cars that are hard on pads/rotors (Caravan) it has made for a long lasting solution with great feel.
 
I've found TQs pretty good.
Don't know about built in shims, as the TQs I've used had no such thing in the applications I've bought them for.
I've found dealer service pads not as good as factory pads, regardless of labeling.
YMMV
 
You can get wagner thermoquiet pads at advance ive always had good luck with them. If you have a carquest around you i would say go with their blue pads with hex shim their rebranded raybestos profesional pads
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27

I've never had a set of replacement pads last as long as the factory pads on any car we've bought new.


I'll be the first to admit there are some bad aftermarket pads out there, but think about something. Normally the replacement pads are put on a set of used rotors that have grooves and are far from perfect. By the time the pads set in, you may already have 10%-20% of your brake material gone. Then the used, rough rotors will wear the pads much quicker than a new rotor will wear the pads.
You are actually comparing apples to oranges.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I've found TQs pretty good.
Don't know about built in shims, as the TQs I've used had no such thing in the applications I've bought them for.
I've found dealer service pads not as good as factory pads, regardless of labeling.
YMMV


I have the shimless TQ pads on my sonata very smooth pedal no noise whatsoever.
 
If you are taking factory pads off, there have been a few updates to the 3 pads over the years. The aftermarket ones do not have the updates done to them. Fronts should be C2Y3-33-23ZA, rears should be C2Y3-26-48ZA. I seem to remember the rears being Akebono, the fronts will have FoMoCo on them and I think are made by Pagid or Galfer.
 
Bendix oe pads are usually pretty much the same, I consider wagner pads a value line pad.

personnaly on my colorado, Ive had raybestos, and wagner, they were weak in comparison to oem and or squeeling, The bendix pads are Top notch( no squeal and great performance, same as oem. However your not going to find these at a discount auto parts store.

I put wagner on the wifes toyota and They were slightly weaker but usuable. But on two differnt vehicles Ive run the Bendix and both times was very pleased with the results.
 
AAP has brand name brakes. Shop online, pick up in-store an hour later. There are promo codes that can save you money.

Wagner Thermoquiet is a good pad at a great price. The Akebono ProACT usually costs more, but if it's not too much more, go for that. Axxis Deluxe is also a good choice.

If Murray has it, look for Peak Global Lifetime. It's in a gold colored bottle. Black cap is full-strength; red cap is 50/50 premix.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom