What a lousy way for a car to go
- Thread starter demarpaint
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Oil pan rot is common on seasoned vehicles up in the salt belt. Some cars/vans are notorious for this.
And yes, picking at the rust can make them leak and pour out oil.
You may have oil seeping out even if you drained it. Very frustrating when you are trying to patch it!
But smear a little on those areas to stop them, then later get the whole area [and well on up to the good parts] with your JB Quick. Use the sheet metal patch you pre-sized over the JB final slathering.
This can be a really good repair. Some oil pans are heck to get out.
BTW - Don't epoxy your drain plug!
And yes, picking at the rust can make them leak and pour out oil.
You may have oil seeping out even if you drained it. Very frustrating when you are trying to patch it!
But smear a little on those areas to stop them, then later get the whole area [and well on up to the good parts] with your JB Quick. Use the sheet metal patch you pre-sized over the JB final slathering.
This can be a really good repair. Some oil pans are heck to get out.
BTW - Don't epoxy your drain plug!
I think you will end up replacing the pan. I know you are finding things wrong with it, but they do not sound that bad at all. It sounds like to me you just want something newer and cost is not the number one factor.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Your tracker front cross member is under recall from GM, go get them install a new one. Maybe if your lucky they'll poke a hole in the oil pan by accident?
This special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership.
I dont qualify....ARRRGGHHH. Tracker is a 99.....over 10 years old.
Its OK, my buddy has some 1/4 inch plate. He said he'd weld it up no prob.
Your tracker front cross member is under recall from GM, go get them install a new one. Maybe if your lucky they'll poke a hole in the oil pan by accident?
This special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership.
I dont qualify....ARRRGGHHH. Tracker is a 99.....over 10 years old.
Its OK, my buddy has some 1/4 inch plate. He said he'd weld it up no prob.
It's amazing the damage the salt does to vehicles. Down here nothing rusts unless you live by the ocean.
Our brake rotors hardly even rust.
Our brake rotors hardly even rust.
If the patch holds I'd give the pan a few coats of black POR-15. You can get a starter kit that includes a 16 ounce can of POR-15, Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and a few brushes for about $20.
As it was developed for salt water applications, it is heavy duty stuff and about as good as it gets for rust stopping products.
Hopefully the patch sees you through the 200k milestone as that would be a very nice milestone to achieve, especially being so close it.
-Spyder
As it was developed for salt water applications, it is heavy duty stuff and about as good as it gets for rust stopping products.
Hopefully the patch sees you through the 200k milestone as that would be a very nice milestone to achieve, especially being so close it.
-Spyder
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Bump
I don't want to jinx the patch but so far its holding. If the rain would stop I'd get under it and give it another coat of the JB Weld, then prime and paint it.
I would definitely use POR-15 for the paint - no need to prime then either. Its more expensive than equivalent generic paint, but still fairly inexpensive for what it does. It is UV sensitive, but where its being used this isn't a factor. It dries within about 3 to 4 hours (faster depending on temperature and humidity), meaning you can do 3 full coats in one day and it'll be ready for use the next. The treated pan will then outlive the van (its that good).
-Spyder
-Spyder
I'll check out their website again. Thanks
Well its a week tomorrow, and 360 miles logged since I patched it. The patch is holding well, no seeping at all. I plan on getting under it tomorrow and having a good look. Then I'll float the area again with JB Weld, follow with a good coat of primer and paint.
R&R of the pan is a 3+ hour job, and IMO not worth it in this case.
R&R of the pan is a 3+ hour job, and IMO not worth it in this case.
Sounds good so far. Let's hope it sees you past the 200k milestone.
Time will tell. If my buddy returns my ramps I'll be under it this morning to finish it up.
It's now over 2,000 miles since the repair and the pan is doing fine. I have about 8,000 miles give or take and I hit 200,000 miles. I'm hoping the patch holds up!
LOL 3500 miles and holding strong. I'm thinking about getting a used 4x4 to replace it and if the right one comes along I might just sell the Aerostar before the 200,000 mile mark. Time will tell.
Update: I changed the oil a few weeks ago and forgot this thread. I'm now about 6,500 miles into the repair and happy to report the patch is still holding. I was leaking a little more oil than normal, and due to the lousy weather was to lazy to crawl under and look. When I changed the oil I found it was coming from a cheap AAP filter I bought on closeout.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a fiberglass mat and resin system that would hold up to the heat of an oil pan? I would love to lay a fiberglass mat over this patch and epoxy it into place. Suggestions welcome.
As I approach my 200,000 mile goal I set, and the winter is for the most part over I'm thinking of pushing that goal a bit more. LOL Oil pan replacement is not in the cards.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a fiberglass mat and resin system that would hold up to the heat of an oil pan? I would love to lay a fiberglass mat over this patch and epoxy it into place. Suggestions welcome.
As I approach my 200,000 mile goal I set, and the winter is for the most part over I'm thinking of pushing that goal a bit more. LOL Oil pan replacement is not in the cards.
I'll bet you could massage JBWeld into fiberglass mat and just shlop the whole thing up on the pan. pan would need to be CLEAN. Don't think I'd use regular resin or regular epoxy resin, due to heat.
or JBWeld and window screen or some fine wire mesh??
or JBWeld and window screen or some fine wire mesh??
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I like the JB weld and mesh screen idea. I'm not sure how fiberglass would hold up to the heat.
Thanks. I was actually thinking about using fiberglass mesh tape with the JB Weld. It's fiberglass that looks like window screen and is about 2" wide. I wanted something wider, and stronger. Which is why I was leaning toward the fiberglass matting. I didn't think it was the fiber glass that was the problem with the heat, I thought it was the resin. The JB Weld is working well with the heat, the problem is I'd like to get something that I could actually soak the mat with, and JB Weld won't work. I would be able to get everything clean and dry.
Come to think of it I probably could get some metal window screen, and build the JB Weld over that?
Come to think of it I probably could get some metal window screen, and build the JB Weld over that?
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