water heater maintenance

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 6, 2004
Messages
1,050
Location
Calif.
The water heater in my house is either 40 or 50 gallons tank and runs on gas. The hot water doesn't seem to last as long as before, I remember it could last for two 10-15 minute showers before hot water runs out. The heater is set on the white warm mark which I assume is 125-130F.

It is a Rheem water heater and is about 6-7 years old. I believe this one is self cleaning and was told it is not necessary to drain it. Is it a good idea to drain the self cleaning type water heaters every 1-2 years? Also I know there is a anode rod in water heaters which helps, is it a good idea to replaced it every few years? It would be somewhat hard to replace the rod as the ceiling clearance in the basement is low. The previous water heater which was never drained lasted about 8 years which was replaced since it leaked. Thanks.
 
You may have sediment in the bottom taking up volume. I drain mine every year and nasty filth comes out. Although mine is electric, i think yours is the same thing.
 
Sediment in the bottom of a gas heater acts like an insulator between the water and the flame. Not as bad with electrics where the elements are part way up the tank. Wouldn't hurt to open the drain valve and see what comes out.
 
Get a father in law that was an old time Navy man and you will be cured of 10-15 minute showers!
lol.gif
 
Mine was a 50 gal Rheem, and lasted 12 years. Anode was still fine and when I cut it open little sediment inside. Maybe check the burner flame pattern?

My new heater seems faster to heat, not sure why...
 
Last edited:
change the sacrificial rod and drain the water out of the drain thing that will get all the sediments out of the bottom,
is the water enough?
 
the anode will not help it heat faster. are we talking gas or electric? perhaps the heating element is losing it's ability? (if electric) you could try turning up the heat a little - that would help to some degree.
 
most water heaters are probly around 30,000 b tu. mine is actually 70,000 btu and has never run out of hot water. 4 bathrooms, garden tub. of course, when I do have to replace it.... $$$$$
 
My current gas water heater is about 6-7 years old and never had it drain. The previous gas water heater was replaced because it was leaking after about 20+ years in service. I did not drain that water heater either, because I didn't know water heater needs maintenance. I need to drain the current water heater in the spring, thanks for posting this.
 
If the water heater is electric, you might want to check and make sure both heating elements are still working. Once our last heater started getting old, it seemed like about every other year either a thermostat or element would go. The tell tale sign was you ran out of hot water much quicker. As for draining it to remove sediment, it's probably a good idea, but not all that necessary. Some of our restaurants have units that are over 10 yrs old and have never been drained that run just fine. I tried to drain one and when I opened the valve, it tore the seals apart since it hadn't been touched since it was installed. Since then I won't attempt to drain one unless I know the valve has been opened periodically.
 
OP already stated it clearly that his water heater tank runs on gas.

Things that I can think of that will have an impact on the amount of hot water avail are:

(1) sediment: drain your tank and see how it goes.

(2)incomplete combustion: but then again: it is quite unlikely for you may have issues with CO, etc.

(3) faulty thermostat. Hard to check on the gas unit for you may have to get some licensed gas fitter to do that for you (and service/replace by them only)

(4) low gas pressure line. AGain, this can be verified visually (granted that you are familiar with the flame height back when the days your heater was working properly).

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: lpcmidst128
It would be somewhat hard to replace the rod as the ceiling clearance in the basement is low.

I had a plumber show me a trick for that. He took the rod halfway out and bent it for removal. Same with the new one he put in. He bent it just enough so it can go in without interfering with the internals.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Originally Posted By: lpcmidst128
It would be somewhat hard to replace the rod as the ceiling clearance in the basement is low.

I had a plumber show me a trick for that. He took the rod halfway out and bent it for removal. Same with the new one he put in. He bent it just enough so it can go in without interfering with the internals.

There is also a version that is made up of segments. Think of it as sort of nunchaku anode from h-e-double-l...
 
Thanks everyone for the input.

I drained the water heater today and there was some brown sediment that came out toward the end. After all the water was drained out I turned the water supply to the tank back on until the water ran clean. The water temperature feels back to where it was originally and last longer as well. Very easy maintenance, it just took a while since I ran the hose from the basement to the yard which are on the same floor level.

Originally Posted By: 94MaxGXE
Best way to remove sediment is to drain all the water.
All the crud comes out at the very end.
Check this link.

Hot water heater drain.


Thats a good link with detailed instructions showing you how to drain the water heater. Some people say just drain a few buckets but from my observation all that crud comes out at the end.

Originally Posted By: Quest
OP already stated it clearly that his water heater tank runs on gas.

Things that I can think of that will have an impact on the amount of hot water avail are:

(1) sediment: drain your tank and see how it goes.

(2)incomplete combustion: but then again: it is quite unlikely for you may have issues with CO, etc.

(3) faulty thermostat. Hard to check on the gas unit for you may have to get some licensed gas fitter to do that for you (and service/replace by them only)

(4) low gas pressure line. AGain, this can be verified visually (granted that you are familiar with the flame height back when the days your heater was working properly).

Q.


In my case it appeared to be the sediment at the bottom of the tank. The flame pattern and height looks the same as when it was new. It looks like a huge stove burner down there, its fairly powerful so the gas pressure should be fine, you can even hear the flame roaring.

Originally Posted By: rshunter
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Originally Posted By: lpcmidst128
It would be somewhat hard to replace the rod as the ceiling clearance in the basement is low.

I had a plumber show me a trick for that. He took the rod halfway out and bent it for removal. Same with the new one he put in. He bent it just enough so it can go in without interfering with the internals.

There is also a version that is made up of segments. Think of it as sort of nunchaku anode from h-e-double-l...


I remember watching something on tv show, I believe it was "This Old House" and they talked about removing the anode rode. They said you can saw the rod to remove them in sections if you have limited clearance. And they also showed there is some segmented anode rods available which looked like nunchucks.

Does it really matter putting the heater setting to pilot versus vacation setting for the purpose of draining the tank? I turned the water heater to the vacation setting before the last shower of the day. That way the water will not be hot when I drain the tank.
 
I do the exact same thing and have never had a problem. I do a full drain on an annual basis. One thing I'd like to mention...when I had a new water heater installed 4 years ago I also added a whole-house sediment filter. It is amazing how much dirt the filter catches. When I flush the water heater I get very little buildup, much less than with my old water heater without the filter.
 
Last edited:
I had to buy a cheap (5 yr warranty) Reliance water heater last time because it was the only model in the store that was short enough to fit in the available space. That was 14 years ago, and with no draining or maintenance at all it is still going strong. I'll probably change it next year before my luck runs out.

Tom NJ
 
op, thanks for the update, anode rod is a crucial component, if it not changed every 3-5 yrs (depending on water quality), rest of the tank will start to corrode and leak, then it will be time for a new heater.
you are correct, it was this old house, I luv those nanchuck anodes.
I put an inline sediment filter on my main waterline, but then first bought the house the water heater was already too corroded and the strainer on my hot water hose of my washing machine was full of rusty curd,
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom