Water decarbonization methods

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: Quest

That's why I raise the question as to what makes you think you have a serious combustion chamber carboning issue to begin with?

Q.


Like I said in the original post, after running both a tank full of Techron concentrate and a full can of Seafoam (which I'm starting to think does nothing) through the PCV line, the engine still slightly pings under load and I can visibly see the piston tops still have a think layer if crud on them. In addition, these engines are known to pull oil through the PCV valve and leave deposits which can decrease engine performance and cause detonation/ping.

I'm surprised how many people think the water decarb method is bogus; I thought the consensus on BITOG was that it's a viable and legitimate/time tested method for removing deposits from an engine. I got fantastic results. Next time I'm going to try the Lubegard system.

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-207/PRO+II+9000+Complete+Fuel+System+Cleaner+%282+can+kit%29

 

[Quest]

@ Drew:

I never say water decarboning bogus...I'm more worry about not doing it right/overdoing it which the damage can be equally devastating.

Q.

 

[Drew99GT]

I only used a spray bottle with hot water and the spray on a fine mist so it was fully atomized, and the engine was at full operating temperature. I've seen people on YouTube use a garden hose through the throttle body. I wouldn't do that!

 

[Phishin]

Water De-Carb is totally effective. But you got to get the engine HOT first. And you gotta make sure you raise the idle and use enough water to make it stumble.

Also, if using the water method smooths out your idle, you might want to check your spark plugs. They could be fouled.

My truck never runs as well as it does right after a good drowning....

 

[Brick B-Body]

Water decarbonization isn't rocket science. Three simple steps:

* 1. Find a source of manifold vacuum. Just about anything downstream of the throttle blades that is easy to access will work.

* 2. On that manifold vacuum port, you need to connect a hose. Use vacuum hose adapters as necessary. At the open end of the hose, you need something to meter the water. I like to use a needle tip, like the kind used to inflate footballs.

* 3. Run the warmed up engine at a fast idle. Anywhere between 1500 and 2500 rpm to keep the engine from stalling during the process. Dip the needle tip into your water supply. I like to run at least one or two gallons of water.

I used this exact technique when I worked at the Smog Referee's Office to help marginal cars pass. It has the effect of cleaning not just the combustion chamber but also the cats. Worked real well on cars where everything else is in good working order but the tailpipe numbers were just over the limits.

The only time I ever had a problem was on engines with loose and worn out rings, the excessive blowby would put the water vapor into the crankcase and start to mix with the oil. These same engines would have excess fuel in the oil too. Simply change the oil right after. If your rings are good, this is not an issue.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Water De-Carb is totally effective.


I've found exactly the opposite. It's been my experience that water decarbonization is an "urban legend".

It's time for Mythbusters to get on this one....

 

[leroyd92]

I've done this with a weed sprayer (gallon sized jug) and a fine mist... worked well and improved idle quality...


My buddy who owned our local Anderson dealership said when a car would come in for a (tune up) they would rev the motor to 2/3000rpm and pour a quart of hot water down the manifold. They later rigged up a mount to hang the bottle off the hood instead of holding it...

Thousands of cars got that treatment. Never a problem.

 

[saberz]

There are various methods, with my xterra I used the brake booster to feed seafoam in. The Grand AM through I believe the pcv but my first attempt resulted in a back fire(was one line off ).