Want to buy a chainsaw

Z

zorobabel

Joined
Jan 27, 2011
Messages
1,245
Location
Roseville, CA
I have a couple a trees I want to cut, another couple to trim. I started on one with shovel, pick axe, trowel, axe, hatchet - the works, but even my wife eventually said I should buy some kind of power tool (and that is saying something :ROFLMAO:). The ones I want to cut are near a fence, behind a retaining wall and I want them dead for good :)
While I would like to own a gas chainsaw (for clearing trees on remote roads - when needed), I estimate it would only sit, dry rot seals and won't even start when needed.
So I started looking at corded chainsaws like:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-To...sion-Metal-Bucking-Spikes-included/1635613357

https://www.harborfreight.com/145-amp-16-in-electric-chainsaw-57622.html

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oregon-...6-chain-High-Power-Low-Noise-603348/307728447

I would appreciate recommendations, and even pointing out junk (with the reasoning please).

edit: I don't want plastic gears for example.
 
What cordless power tool do you have?

Whatever battery family, there’s surely a cordless chainsaw.

I’m not a big fan of replacing gas OPE with electric. That said, they travel well and don’t require much upkeep. So if you have a specific power tool brand, just but that saw and maybe an extra battery or two.

My in laws have Ryobi stuff mainly down in the Caribbean. After Maria and Irma, there were trees down everywhere other property. Their saw was long dead from gas and carb issues. They asked to bring an electric. I brought a Ryobi. I cut a ton of trees. The battery wasn’t particularly great, and I didn’t buy extras so we only cut a bit then stopped. But it got the job done. And that’s a Ryobi many years ago. The tools and the batteries have all gotten better. Imagine what a new makita can do.
 
Even name brand gas chainsaws have plastic gears.

Put your hands on some and see what you like. For the cost of corded ones it is what you like and what you want to spend. There are name brand corded ones.
 
And if it is your first saw - get the safety gear and some training.

Like a firearm - very useful tool, but very dangerous for the untrained.

For that much work, I would seriously consider gasoline power, which allows you to cut where electric doesn’t have the grunt, and allows you to keep going. Stihl or Husqvarna.
 
JHZR2 said:
What cordless power tool do you have?

Whatever battery family, there’s surely a cordless chainsaw.

I’m not a big fan of replacing gas OPE with electric. That said, they travel well and don’t require much upkeep. So if you have a specific power tool brand, just but that saw and maybe an extra battery or two.

My in laws have Ryobi stuff mainly down in the Caribbean. After Maria and Irma, there were trees down everywhere other property. Their saw was long dead from gas and carb issues. They asked to bring an electric. I brought a Ryobi. I cut a ton of trees. The battery wasn’t particularly great, and I didn’t buy extras so we only cut a bit then stopped. But it got the job done. And that’s a Ryobi many years ago. The tools and the batteries have all gotten better. Imagine what a new makita can do.
Click to expand...

I only have an old Bosch impact driver, I am not keen on battery powered tools, they just seem disposable - batteries age, then they get discontinued.
 
Astro14 said:
And if it is your first saw - get the safety gear and some training.

Like a firearm - very useful tool, but very dangerous for the untrained.

For that much work, I would seriously consider gasoline power, which allows you to cut where electric doesn’t have the grunt, and allows you to keep going. Stihl or Husqvarna.
Click to expand...
I never used a chainsaw before, let alone owned one, but gloves, eye and ear protection, stay away from the blade and out of the kickback path - that should be all I think. Oh and don't get crushed by falling trees...
The trees are not that big yet (parallel branches starting low), but they get thick enough at the base to make using a 15" hand saw an olympic event.
 
I have a 20-year old Husky my wife got me. Neglect the heck out of it but it still runs. I think 2-stroke oil has preservative in it as the carb always responds after years of non-use. Or maybe when gas dries out with oil in it the oil protects things. No matter.

An idle chainsaw will eventually leak all its gas and bar oil into or onto wherever it's stored. The good news is these "seals" you worry about drying up, are already doing that, brand new from the store.

Since my good chainsaw is at camp, I got a cheezy "Garwinner" from walmart for $107. This thing rips! Would absolutely recommend. First thing I cut was a 15" dia maple. Didn't know how dense the wood was until I went to split it, LOL. Could always sell yours used on Facebook for 80% of what you paid, when you're done.

Get some practice in with limbing or cutting sitting wood so you get a feel for your saw before you start cutting standing wood.
 
zorobabel said:
I only have an old Bosch impact driver, I am not keen on battery powered tools, they just seem disposable - batteries age, then they get discontinued.
Click to expand...
And you think the absolute bottom of the barrel (Walmart store brand, harbor freight, etc) corded ones are going to be any better?!?

Cordless tools are now pro tools. For most every segment except OPE. But for the casual user, even for one they’ll work.

Corded low end tools will be the cheap ones.

Makita does make a corded saw. If you’re set on a corded one, I’d probably look at that one first, then move downmarket to B&D or whatnot.
 
zorobabel said:
I never used a chainsaw before, let alone owned one, but gloves, eye and ear protection, stay away from the blade and out of the kickback path - that should be all I think. Oh and don't get crushed by falling trees...
The trees are not that big yet (parallel branches starting low), but they get thick enough at the base to make using a 15" hand saw an olympic event.
Click to expand...
If you have never run a chainsaw or felled a tree STOP! This is extremely dangerous. A chainsaw is one of the most dangerous tools you can own. I will lend out most of my tools, but not a chainsaw! I will cut down trees for those in need versus lending out my saw.

Just my $0.02
 
Sign up for all the email deals from HF and you will save money on your new chainsaw.
 
If you only have a few trees to do, and never intend to chop any more, hire someone or ask to borrow a chainsaw. Its not a task to do without practice and major research on safety. Dont ever use a ladder. Get a pole saw. Dont bother at all with corded, its a waste of effort.

Here is my anicdotal experience the past year. I've been clearing dead cedar, some oak on the 20 acre family ranch.
I sold the few gas chainsaws I owned and switched to battery chainsaws and havent looked back. I own a Ryobi 10 inch, Dewalt 20v upgraded to 14 inch, and Milwaukee m18 battery chainsaws. I love all 3 of them for different reasons, and they have their intended purposes. The Ryobi is great for de-limbing, the Dewalt can handle small trees and de-limbing, the Milwaukee is the blunt hammer that blows through anything I've tried with it. They all guzzle bar and chain oil so go ahead and buy a gallon.

If you want to go really cheap, the Bauer battery unit is probably ok.

1707436770798.jpg
 
eljefino said:
I have a 20-year old Husky my wife got me. Neglect the heck out of it but it still runs. I think 2-stroke oil has preservative in it as the carb always responds after years of non-use. Or maybe when gas dries out with oil in it the oil protects things. No matter.

An idle chainsaw will eventually leak all its gas and bar oil into or onto wherever it's stored. The good news is these "seals" you worry about drying up, are already doing that, brand new from the store.

Since my good chainsaw is at camp, I got a cheezy "Garwinner" from walmart for $107. This thing rips! Would absolutely recommend. First thing I cut was a 15" dia maple. Didn't know how dense the wood was until I went to split it, LOL. Could always sell yours used on Facebook for 80% of what you paid, when you're done.

Get some practice in with limbing or cutting sitting wood so you get a feel for your saw before you start cutting standing wood.
Click to expand...
Thanks, good advice with practicing!
I may have mentioned this before, but you, Sir, are even cheaper than I am to try out that Garwinner :LOL:
 
How big are these trees?

I've never understood the danger thing with smaller homeowner saws. Anything I've ever run -- largest being an MS270C with 18" bar -- simply doesn't have the balls to kick back in any meaningful way. I can't stand the "safety" anti-kickback chains and don't run them.

A corded angle grinder or 12" miter saw is WAY more sketchy.

I think the biggest danger with a chainsaw is dropping it into your thigh and taking out that huge vein.

Of course dropping a tree on yourself is bad, but that's not really the tool being dangerous. It's just physics that heavy things falling on you tends to be undesirable. Same could be said for a 2-post lift or floor jack.

Now if you're talking a high hp saw with a 30" bar....yeah, practice first. Never fear any tool but do respect it.
 
I used to do tree work; I love chain saws. The most important posts here speak to safety. Seriously. I have seen serious accidents, even with very experienced operators.

Having said that, @Astro14 mentioned Stihl and Husqvarna saws; those are the best saws and have a price tag to match.
Back in the day we used a lot of Poulans; hard to beat for price/performance. When the Echo brand came up, I laughed at them but man was I wrong. They have great power and just run and run.

So much for the gas powered saws. I am not sure what your real needs are, but I think the battery powered saws make sense for a lot of people. I am partial to the Makita brand, but I imagine others would do the job.

Oh yeah, learn how to put a nice edge on your chain, and don't cut in the dirt. Chain saws are not rototillers.
 
D60 said:
Of course dropping a tree on yourself is bad, but that's not really the tool being dangerous. It's just physics that heavy things falling on you tends to be undesirable. Same could be said for a 2-post lift or floor jack.
Click to expand...
Every once in a while a falling tree will give a kick that can catch you off guard. Watch youtube to sober up.
 
JeffKeryk said:
I used to do tree work; I love chain saws. The most important posts here speak to safety. Seriously. I have seen serious accidents, even with very experienced operators.

Having said that, @Astro14 mentioned Stihl and Husqvarna saws; those are the best saws and have a price tag to match.
Back in the day we used a lot of Poulans; hard to beat for price/performance. When the Echo brand came up, I laughed at them but man was I wrong. They have great power and just run and run.

So much for the gas powered saws. I am not sure what your real needs are, but I think the battery powered saws make sense for a lot of people. I am partial to the Makita brand, but I imagine others would do the job.

Oh yeah, learn how to put a nice edge on your chain, and don't cut in the dirt. Chain saws are not rototillers.
Click to expand...
Very true about safety. It’s paramount. I usually think about long established trees that fall by natural causes.

Cutting trees down have a lot more, and more significant safety concerns. All have safety risks.

You’re right about echo. My father bought one in the early 80s. It was Kioritz-echo. Still works great after all this time.
 
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