I'm curious too. Not so much how it compares to Dexos, but what is the best choice out there? Here is what I've found so far. The OE oil Castrol Edge Pro OE LLIV FE 0W20. I posted a VOA: Castrol VOA.
Looking through msds they all appear to be mostly POA? The LiquiMoly has an impressive VI of 184, versus 175 for Mobil and 164 for Castrol. Not sure how the add packs differ.
Originally Posted by BrandonT
I'm curious too. Not so much how it compares to Dexos, but what is the best choice out there? Here is what I've found so far. The OE oil Castrol Edge Pro OE LLIV FE 0W20. I posted a VOA: Castrol VOA.
Looking through msds they all appear to be mostly POA? The LiquiMoly has an impressive VI of 184, versus 175 for Mobil and 164 for Castrol. Not sure how the add packs differ.
Yes very limited. I bet most VW dealers throw 0w40 in the 508 spec motors.
I notice the oil configs out there are giving the wrong specs.
If i get some real info I'll pass it on. Good luck!
i would NEVER use any XXW20 in a turbo'd engine!!! not even Redline which i consider top of the heap!!! manufacturers can recommend what they want but I run what I WANT because its my $$$$$, if REQUIRE it must be supplied FREE!!!!!!
Originally Posted by benjy
i would NEVER use any XXW20 in a turbo'd engine!!! not even Redline which i consider top of the heap!!! manufacturers can recommend what they want but I run what I WANT because its my $$$$$, if REQUIRE it must be supplied FREE!!!!!!
Yeah but how can you question VW engineering???? Like OMG
Originally Posted by StevieC
20 weights are evil you should run a 30 or thicker according to some on here, that's probably why you haven't gotten a response in 10 hours.
Of course you should. Same engines are designed first and foremost around 5W40 oils. They are still recommended to use ACEA C3 in EU and ACEA A3/B3 B4 in Russia, Ukraine and other former Soviet Republics as well as rest of the world.
Now, only reason why VW moved to 0W20 in the US is CAFE and aiming most of their line up to soccer moms.
If the add-pack and base oils in the 20wt are up to the task there is nothing to fear but apparently I'm really wrong on this and awaiting sentencing by the forum police. Funny thing was it was the same deal when people were pushing 20w50's and 30's were the crime and I was charged then too over a decade ago.
Originally Posted by StevieC
If the add-pack and base oils in the 20wt are up to the task there is nothing to fear but apparently I'm really wrong on this and awaiting sentencing by the forum police. Funny thing was it was the same deal when people were pushing 20w50's and 30's were the crime and I was charged then too over a decade ago.
I apologize in advance for my crimes.
I thought you said many times you were going to quit this thread?
I agree with you w20's are fine. 99% of the people don't know or don't care. 99% of those on BITOG and myself are not one of those. My 2005 Ranger and 1993 F150 were back-spec'd to 5w-20. I'm one that keeps vehicles forever. Both trucks run smoother, are quieter and get better MPG on w30. That's just 2 examples out of 60 million. I lose.
Not this thread the other... I love how it's a board of people that say they need science and facts to back things up but then they jump on something and won't let it go even though there is real world cases staring them in the face that contradict what they are saying. Case and point is the 20w50 versus 30wt's now 20wt versus 30wt's. Or the high iron in M1 UOA's which everyone was panicking about which meant nothing. Before Fram was evil and now TG/XG are the best thing since sliced bread. Not all Purolators tear but they are "Off the list". I guess we will just wait ANOTHER decade for this to change even though we have had 20wt's for over a decade now without mass failures causing ALL OE's to back peddle. Heck we even have high milers here that have done it on 20wt's but I guess that's not as good as some paper from an official source. WHATEVER. Not trying to spill over to this thread. Just explaining to answer your question.