Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W-20 cannot find VOA and UOA

J

Japanese

Joined
Dec 13, 2018
Messages
433
Location
Chicago, IL
Hi everyone,

Got on the Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W20 bandwagon by recommendation of a few people here for a Camry engine at 165K miles that burns about 1 qt of M1 EP 0W20.
I cannot find any VOA on the forum, except a video screenshot from youtube and only a couple of UOA that are done either at 2500 or 3500 miles.
I was planning to run this oil through the winter at 5K OCI, but if I need to change it earlier, I'll probably wait until after the winter. I change my oil outdoors. But if that's the case I better get 5W30 for next spring/summer.

Still looking for any Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W20 UOA at 5K OCI or VOA (not video screenshots), please?
Thank you.
 
I maintain the VOA Database and I haven't seen one in 0w-20 yet. However, I would think it would look just like the 5w30 except for the grade. If you do come across one or do one yourself, please ping me so I can add it to the database.
 
Here's a 30 weight:

jetman

Thread 'Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 - Virgin UOA'

Here is the virgin report.

THERE’S NO OTHER MOTOR OIL LIKE IT???????

I asked for both TBN & TAN????

I'll call them tomorrow and see if they will come up with it.

DSCN8075.webp
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Japanese said:
Hi everyone,

Got on the Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W20 bandwagon by recommendation of a few people here for a Camry engine at 165K miles that burns about 1 qt of M1 EP 0W20.
I cannot find any VOA on the forum, except a video screenshot from youtube and only a couple of UOA that are done either at 2500 or 3500 miles.
I was planning to run this oil through the winter at 5K OCI, but if I need to change it earlier, I'll probably wait until after the winter. I change my oil outdoors. But if that's the case I better get 5W30 for next spring/summer.

Still looking for any Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W20 UOA at 5K OCI or VOA (not video screenshots), please?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Remember, oil reports are not an indicator of performance.
 
OP - allow me to be critical for a moment. No personal offense intended, but there are some things which need to be corrected in your thought process.

First, the reason you may find it difficult to find threads is because people (including you) are not consistent in the manner in which they title threads, etc. From the viscosity to the words and abbreviations, you need to broaden your search to find what you seek. These are examples which would indicate that you can find the info it you look under the right rock. I have seen all these used in reference to the product info you seek:
- 0W-20, 0w20, 0w20, 0w20, etc ... (only the first way is the proper API format to state a mutli-vis lube, regardless of its viscosity grade)
- Valvoline Restore & Protect, Valvoline Restore and Protect, Valvoline Restore and Protect, Valvoline Restore and Protect, VR and P, VR/P, Valvoline Restore and Protect (the real product name is underlined)
As is often said ... Garbage In, Garbage Out. When people get sloppy and don't follow proper conventional formats and spelling, and they instead use their interpretation of what makes sense to them, then the "search" tool is only as good as your imagination as to what others might have been thinking at the time they created their thread title. Your own title to this thread had two errors; I corrected both the product name and the viscosity statement. So, physician heal thyself, as they say.

Second, you don't mention what year/engine the Carmy is ... but honestly it won't likely matter. You are mistakenly believing that there's a seasonal reason to switch from a 20 grade to a 30 grade. If wear rates are a problem, then perhaps the 30 grade might be of interest, but otherwise, it's a nothing-burger. Further, does it get cold in Chicago? Sure it does. But not cold enough to warrant a fear of using a "0W" versus a "5W"; the cold pumpability isn't going to be affected in a manner where you'd notice a difference up on the lake. It would have to be -30F ambient or below before 0W would indicate a benefit.

Lastly, if the info you seek isn't available, well maybe you could add to the database? Perhaps pay for a VOA, and then get your UOA done at 5k miles. Post up the info and contribute.
 
Last edited:
Pablo said:
Not using the correct oil?
Bad engine design?
Lack of maintenance?

Some of this for sure. But BITOG people?

How many people using conventional oil, 5K intervals, over 130K miles, need VRP?
Click to expand...
The most politically correct way of saying it is “not all oils or engines are created equal”. Add in severe service and it can be a recipe for problems.

On the other hand some engines are so easy on oil anything will work. All I can say is know your engine and operating conditions.
 
Pablo said:
Has anyone here ever asked why so many BITOGers even need VRP?
Click to expand...
I’m driving a 2018 Honda Pilot purchased with 58k miles and VCM still active. After disabling VCM, and now on the 4th OC with VRP, the Pilot has improved performance and better fuel economy. I’m waiting for Blackstone to return my latest UOA, and will post all the reports when I get it.
 
STMech said:
I’m driving a 2018 Honda Pilot purchased with 58k miles and VCM still active. After disabling VCM, and now on the 4th OC with VRP, the Pilot has improved performance and better fuel economy. I’m waiting for Blackstone to return my latest UOA, and will post all the reports when I get it.
Click to expand...
What oil was used?
 
Pablo said:
I bet top tier oils were not used.
Click to expand...
Shouldn't have mattered though. Top-Tier oils are not required by the manufacturer. My sons Kia Rio had oil changed every 5K, like clockwork. Usually off the shelf synthetics, once in a while it got a semi-synthetic (which was factory fill BTW.)

Engine should have been perfectly fine. at 105K, started using oil due to stuck rings. I don't know for sure that Amsoil or anything else would have made any difference. Valvoline Restore and Protect maybe? Really no way to prove it as far as I have seen.

A piston soak corrected the issue. Doesn't burn any oil now, but car doesn't get used much anymore.
 
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