That's saying a lot considering what you had in the crankcase before.
Valvoline Restore and Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
- Start date
But different oils resulting in different noises from the engine is all in our head.... Of course it's not
I don’t know but the 40 grades I’m running now have delivered smoothness beyond anything I’ve experienced prior. People are sleeping on the 15w-40 HOL PCMO and so far the intangibles are incredible. UOA to come.
Looking forward to this. Also for more oil fill hole shots. Curious if it continues to improve on what VRP did.
I'm going to do something similar but with Amsoil HM 10W-30. Same concept, but I can't go to 15W-xx due to my weather. Honestly 10W-xx is cutting it a little close but I should be ok for all but a handful of starts a year worst case scenario.
Have you ever run any 40 grade oil before?
I'm interested how that oil would perform below 32°F and especially below 15°F.
Greetings from Chicago!
He's not running a straight 40 oil lol. He is running 15W-40. 15W-xx oils must flow at +4F I believe. Anecdotal reports here of people running 15W-40 diesel oils down to -30F with no issues. Below that, a block heater is advisable.
I know that despite reassurances here, you're still clutching pearls over running a 30 grade in Chicago, but, rest assured my man, a 40 grade will also be just fine.
I've run once 10W-30 (conventional) in the winter (timing belt driven car) and it didn't sound very good below 15°F. At what temp. The lowest temp at which the oil flows doesn't matter that much because its consistency below curtain degrees gets very dense.
Hopefully the full synthetic he runs is a much different story. That is why I said I'm very interested in that oil in the winter.
I'm running 10W-30 synthetic, and at 19°F last winter it sounded the same as at 40°F.
I’ve run M1 0W-40 at -20F starting temp without issue in the winter. I’ve also run 10W-40 synblend at 5F starting temp without issue.
They cranked slightly slower but all built oil pressure immediately without issue. A strong battery is key for starting In these cold temps.
Right after the 2nd R&P oil change, in my 180K mile Highlander, it threw CAM timing code (P0015). This is generally a slow/sluggish VVT solenoid. I can't easily test it, it's the bank bank (of course it is ....) and I have to pull the wiper cowl & intake. If I have to pull the intake, I'm going to make it worth my time.
Yes, it has 180K miles on it and sluggish/bad VVT solenoids are not unheard of on the 2GR-FE. But, I do wonder if some debris from the R&P oil change is what pushed it over the edge.
For now, I just cleared the code and I'm going to see if it comes back.
Yes, it has 180K miles on it and sluggish/bad VVT solenoids are not unheard of on the 2GR-FE. But, I do wonder if some debris from the R&P oil change is what pushed it over the edge.
For now, I just cleared the code and I'm going to see if it comes back.
the back bank ... along the firewall.
Could also have partially clogged the VVTI filter screen.
It is best to do that either way, they are cheap to replace so I would recommend just buying replacements screens ahead of time.
I Have. Not until recently in this Accord, since I've only owned it since January. But in other vehicles, yes.
Chicago isn't cold enough to need anything more than a 5w, but I'd run a 0w anyway just to get better base oils.
The I'm only running 15w-40 because it's HPL 15w-40, and buying HPL is one of the few ways to ensure that the tighter number spread doesn't just give you really cheap base oils.
If I wasn't running HPL, I'd be running a 0w-40 Euro that's either Castrol Edge or M1 Euro FS.
Where is the before picture?
Replaced the valve cover gasket in the morning, of course it's gonna be dry.
Unfortunately, didn't take any pics prior. Bought this car used, I am not the first owner.
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