Valve Cleaning Tip needed
- Thread starter WylieCoyote
- Start date
No idea. Whenever I see something like this, I assume (wrong, I know) the prior owner is one of those "by the book" OCI guys who ask for the cheapest oil available. He may have even run it longer than the manual calls for. It had 5W-20 in it when I bought it, if I am to believe the windshield sticker. Another screw-up.
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Yeah that engine recommends 5W-30
I have same engine my 2017 Lincoln MKC
I think you'll get the results with a can of the CRC intake and turbo cleaner
Good luck with your project
I might try that on my mom's 2014 Fusion with the 2.0EB. I have the can and am just curious how it will work. I'll probably wait for the next oil change and do it right before. The car has mostly seen M1 0W40 its whole life changed every 5K.
Yeah that engine recommends 5W-30
I have same engine my 2017 Lincoln MKC
I think you'll get the results with a can of the CRC intake and turbo cleaner
Good luck with your project
I might try that on my mom's 2014 Fusion with the 2.0EB. I have the can and am just curious how it will work. I'll probably wait for the next oil change and do it right before. The car has mostly seen M1 0W40 its whole life changed every 5K.
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Yeah that engine recommends 5W-30
I have same engine my 2017 Lincoln MKC
I think you'll get the results with a can of the CRC intake and turbo cleaner
Good luck with your project
I might try that on my mom's 2014 Fusion with the 2.0EB. I have the can and am just curious how it will work. I'll probably wait for the next oil change and do it right before. The car has mostly seen M1 0W40 its whole life changed every 5K.
I bought a can about a month ago and I also am waiting till the next oil to use it.
Interesting you've been using 0W-40
How many miles on the car ?
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Yeah that engine recommends 5W-30
I have same engine my 2017 Lincoln MKC
I think you'll get the results with a can of the CRC intake and turbo cleaner
Good luck with your project
I might try that on my mom's 2014 Fusion with the 2.0EB. I have the can and am just curious how it will work. I'll probably wait for the next oil change and do it right before. The car has mostly seen M1 0W40 its whole life changed every 5K.
I bought a can about a month ago and I also am waiting till the next oil to use it.
Interesting you've been using 0W-40
How many miles on the car ?
I think a compressed air nozzle will do it after cleaner with brushes etc.
Hopefully these brushes work after a good soak with CRC Intake Valve Cleaner. Looked at larger diameter brushes, but remembered that I'm working in a pretty confined area. Considered stiff nylon, but thought they might be too pliable.
Good idea about the compressed air. I'll give the ports a blast after I've vacuumed out the crud.
Really hoping this goes well.
Good idea about the compressed air. I'll give the ports a blast after I've vacuumed out the crud.
Really hoping this goes well.
Something like these might be helpful if they reach:
https://www.amazon.com/Rotary-cepillo-alambre-V%C3%A1stago-Limpiar/dp/B0055SWFLY
https://www.amazon.com/Rotary-cepillo-alambre-V%C3%A1stago-Limpiar/dp/B0055SWFLY
Planned on this project taking all of Saturday, but I got started after work Friday night, and had it buttoned back up by 1:30am Saturday morning. Pretty easy job with the exception of Ford's myriad of connectors for manifold pressure, PVC, vacuum, etc. All different designs, and none particularly easy to disconnect with the limited space available. Ford should also be thanked for turning all the hose clamps on the charge tube to face the engine. This is where the bloody knuckles come in.
I grossly overestimated the size of the ports and valves on this engine. The brushes I bought were oversized the job, so all they managed to do was scrape the globs off the valve stems. I got lucky, as when I shut down the engine, 3 sets of valves were closed, so I didn't have to bother with rotating the engine until I started on the 4th set.
CRC Intake Valve cleaner is some serious stuff. You spray it into the ports, it foams like mad, and then sits there and bubbles, like vinegar poured on baking soda. It turned the carbon globs to goo in a matter of minutes. Spray, wait 20 minutes, scratch off what I could with the brush, and suck out the liquid. Rinse & repeat twice to make sure I got all the loose pieces. I ended up using the Shop Vac, as the vacuum oil change device I bought was worthless. I just filled the Shop Vac with water, put on the extension hose, and let it run in the driveway, as far away from everything as I could get it. I attached the hose from the vacuum pump so I'd have something that could actually fit down the intake ports. No exploding Shop Vac.
I always hope for the best with projects like this, but unfortunately didn't get everything I hoped for. The stems are now clear of any foreign material, but the tops of the valves still have a layer of rough, black carbon on them. It doesn't appear to be anything that inhibits air flow into the combustion chamber, but my optimism caused me to expect clean, gray valves when I was done. Not even CRC is strong enough to manage that. To return them to original condition would definitely require media blasting.
I'm not sure how much cleaning you're going to get done by just spraying this stuff into the intake while the engine is running. It needs soak time, and the larger globs still required brushing to remove from the valve stem.
I'm glad I did it. I went for a long drive at 2 am, to make sure all the connectors made good contact, and to ensure the charge tube didn't blow off or leak. Good boost on the boost guage, no weird running, and no CEL. It may just be me, but the idle vibration seems to be better.
I grossly overestimated the size of the ports and valves on this engine. The brushes I bought were oversized the job, so all they managed to do was scrape the globs off the valve stems. I got lucky, as when I shut down the engine, 3 sets of valves were closed, so I didn't have to bother with rotating the engine until I started on the 4th set.
CRC Intake Valve cleaner is some serious stuff. You spray it into the ports, it foams like mad, and then sits there and bubbles, like vinegar poured on baking soda. It turned the carbon globs to goo in a matter of minutes. Spray, wait 20 minutes, scratch off what I could with the brush, and suck out the liquid. Rinse & repeat twice to make sure I got all the loose pieces. I ended up using the Shop Vac, as the vacuum oil change device I bought was worthless. I just filled the Shop Vac with water, put on the extension hose, and let it run in the driveway, as far away from everything as I could get it. I attached the hose from the vacuum pump so I'd have something that could actually fit down the intake ports. No exploding Shop Vac.
I always hope for the best with projects like this, but unfortunately didn't get everything I hoped for. The stems are now clear of any foreign material, but the tops of the valves still have a layer of rough, black carbon on them. It doesn't appear to be anything that inhibits air flow into the combustion chamber, but my optimism caused me to expect clean, gray valves when I was done. Not even CRC is strong enough to manage that. To return them to original condition would definitely require media blasting.
I'm not sure how much cleaning you're going to get done by just spraying this stuff into the intake while the engine is running. It needs soak time, and the larger globs still required brushing to remove from the valve stem.
I'm glad I did it. I went for a long drive at 2 am, to make sure all the connectors made good contact, and to ensure the charge tube didn't blow off or leak. Good boost on the boost guage, no weird running, and no CEL. It may just be me, but the idle vibration seems to be better.
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