Valve Adjustment

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if a shop is changing your timing belt, what do you think they would charge to adjust valves since the valve cover has to come off anyway?

93 Civic 176k

timing belt install - $185
clutch install - $250 or $275, can't remember what he wrote down.

(seems to be a $62 hourly rate)

I plan to bring new alt, ac, PS belts and a new water pump since all those come off anyhow.

I would probably try it myself but moving the crankshaft to get the different cylinders to TDC sounds headache inducing.

I figure it's probably a good idea to do since the cover will be off anyhow.
 
good idea on the new parts , while he is at it.
A few months back my mom tells me she had to have the timing belt on her Accord replaced ( oil leak from pan gasket ) ..I said I wished I had known. I would have told you to have the water pump replaced while they werte there ( only another 33.50 )... water pump went out 2 weeks later !
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this shop will let you bring your own parts, so all they charge is for the labor - which I have figured to be $62 ish an hour.

the book says the valve cover has to come off, so I will probably need to bring a new valve cover gasket, what about the rear main seal? it goes between the transmission and engine right? if they have to drop the transmission to do the clutch should that be replaced too?

edit: anyone knows what causes play in the shifter? if it's in any gear you can move the shifter back and forth about an inch and a half, synchros? it's like a loose gearbox.
 
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have the rear main done while there doing the clutch, the only what to change the seal is while the engine and transmission are apart. if you dont change it and find it leaking sometime down the road your not gonna wanna spend the money to remove the transmission just the change the seal
 
You might be able to re-use your old valve cover gasket if it looks like it's in good shape and not cracking or anything. Just re-apply a dab of Hondabond on the cam arches.
 
Completely agree on all count, and you can do your own valve adjustment if you buy a set of feeler gauge and a ratchet to turn the crank bolt, and learn how to use them. Took me only 1 hr or less total the first time.
 
Carbonics- where in CA are you located and can you please post the name and info. on the shop?
 
(LOL!) Carbonics,

YOU do not need that freakkin tool to adjust Honda valves. It's a waste oof $$$

Save your $$ for a good set of feeler gauge (Snap-on, US made Craftsman, etc.) instead.

Most of the Honda trained mech never use any of these aforementioned tools but rely on experience, a 10mm box-end wrench, a #2 slot screwdriver (non slip rubber handle preferred) and lots of practice. One can have it done in less than 1 hr typical (our local Honda dealerships typically charge 138$ for valve adjustments.
 
no, you are not lame Cabonics.

Just tech talk between folks here: you really do not need those funky tools to adjust your valves. Just get a good quality feeler gauge set, an ordinary screwdriver and a 10mm box end wrench and you'll be ok.

There are lots of fancy/schmancy tools out there that aren't needed to get the job done right. I'm just trying to save you some precious $$, that's all.

Take care,

Q.
 
Yeah, all that tool does is take the place of a wrench and screwdriver.
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All you're doing is setting the lash between the rocker arm and valve stem when the valve is open.

Is there a nut on the end of the crankshaft - have you checked?
 
This set up should look similar to your Civic.

ValveLash.jpg


All you do is turn the crank until you see one of the rockers pushing down on the valve stem opening the valve.

Then you hold the screw still while you loosen the lock nut.

Then you back off the screw so you can insert your feeler gage.

Then you tighten the screw until you feel drag on your feeler gage.

Then you hold the screw still with the screwdriver while you tighten the lock nut.

Then you rotate the crank until you see the next valve open.

Then you do the same thing on that valve as you did on the first and so on until all the valves are lashed.
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Some times the intake valves will have a different spec from the exhaust valves. In that case, you do all of the intakes first and then do all the exhausts.
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clovis huh? I'm in Fresno - cedar & shaw, like 2 blocks from the savemart center.

thats one clean top end! nice directions too, I'll just end up doing it myself and saving the $65 or so... last time I saw it opened it looked like your pic, but much much more tarnished.
 
Merkava 4 - You do NOT adjust the valve when it is beginning to open!! What in the world are you talking about??
Adjust the valves when they are at maximum clearance, or set each cyl at TDC, and adjust it's valves.
 
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