Using only OE parts
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Originally Posted By: MCompact
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
I only use OEM or aftermarket upgrade parts.
Same here.
Me too.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
I only use OEM or aftermarket upgrade parts.
Same here.
Me too.
Funny, I use almost aftermarket, always have since the early 70s. Never had enough real issues to mention. A Sure a few were [censored] here and there but then so we’re the originals I had to toss as often or not. My favorite was the front brake caliper housing o my 2000 GMC. Rusted a hole in it by 2013. How in [censored] can you do that?? The infamous GM door handles , tailgate release handles. I can get from amazon faster than the dealer for 1/4 the price. I’ve never had one of them break again like the originals did.
How about GMs infamous self destroying door pins on trucks. THose idiots didn’t fix them so they use 2x as many hinges and make them easier to change. They still wallow out the top mount and then even the new one hangs the door low. No new pins not even GMs 2x priced ones. Solution, use the Chinese new ones that still wobble in the egged out hinge ( that same welded or
glued on to the door pillar you really can’t change realistically ). Only fix I’ve ever gotten to work is take the still wobbly new pin , hold it straight with a gloved finger , tack 2 sides then weld it on. It’s only the upper one that really gets egg shaped anyway. If you need to later it’s easily cut off and replaced with a new one the same way . It’s a sad day when a guy with a wirefeed welder and grinder has to outsmart 2 generation of GM engineers to fix something. Are they that stupid, no way they’re just being cheap, light, simplistic whatever to meet EPA , CAFE or whatever standards to shove them out the door.
Don’t even get me started on the junk US OEM fuel pumps , platinum priced fuel lines brake lines that rust away in 10 years. Dealers will be quick to point out road salt but it’s the same no worse than the older generations of vehicle from back then. I rarely ever touched any of those. Then the rear frame integrity of their 1500 series trucks post 1998. With a buddy’s help I made an entire cab back frame from a piece of old building and 10 lbs of rod and some scrap plate. Some of what I took off was so thin that I could bend it with my fingers. When I finally got it the old pro wrench laughed and said he saw way worse right out of the factory and ours was dead on . I laughed and said we did with a tape measure and plumb bob outside on a sloped driveway, go figure.
OEM, don’t be too quick to guzzzle The Mr Goodwrench kool aid . It ain’t always so. Oh then there’s the fantastical
Grand Cherokee........................... I had OEM stuff Fail that I’ve never had cause to even think abot before all with no abuse and low miles. Sadly most of it “Made With Pride” right here. While none of the Tuff I got aftermarket ever failed that I know of. Kinda make ya wonder doesn’t it.......
How about GMs infamous self destroying door pins on trucks. THose idiots didn’t fix them so they use 2x as many hinges and make them easier to change. They still wallow out the top mount and then even the new one hangs the door low. No new pins not even GMs 2x priced ones. Solution, use the Chinese new ones that still wobble in the egged out hinge ( that same welded or
Don’t even get me started on the junk US OEM fuel pumps , platinum priced fuel lines brake lines that rust away in 10 years. Dealers will be quick to point out road salt but it’s the same no worse than the older generations of vehicle from back then. I rarely ever touched any of those. Then the rear frame integrity of their 1500 series trucks post 1998. With a buddy’s help I made an entire cab back frame from a piece of old building and 10 lbs of rod and some scrap plate. Some of what I took off was so thin that I could bend it with my fingers. When I finally got it the old pro wrench laughed and said he saw way worse right out of the factory and ours was dead on . I laughed and said we did with a tape measure and plumb bob outside on a sloped driveway, go figure.
OEM, don’t be too quick to guzzzle The Mr Goodwrench kool aid . It ain’t always so. Oh then there’s the fantastical
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
AFAIK, whether it's completely equivalent to OE depends on why it's not being sold as such. If it was a production overrun that was still within MB's tolerances, or if Wahler just used the same (or better) tolerances themselves, then it's equivalent. If it wasn't suitable for the MB brand because it somehow fell outside of their tolerances, then it may not be.
I've been wondering about that recently. Are the parts with the OE logo scratched off made to be sold as private label, overruns or were they out of spec by x%?
No way to know unless you're the company that manufactured the part, or have a trusted source in that company.
That's why OE is usually preferable -- NOT because it's necessarily "better", but because it's usually less of a gamble.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
AFAIK, whether it's completely equivalent to OE depends on why it's not being sold as such. If it was a production overrun that was still within MB's tolerances, or if Wahler just used the same (or better) tolerances themselves, then it's equivalent. If it wasn't suitable for the MB brand because it somehow fell outside of their tolerances, then it may not be.
I've been wondering about that recently. Are the parts with the OE logo scratched off made to be sold as private label, overruns or were they out of spec by x%?
No way to know unless you're the company that manufactured the part, or have a trusted source in that company.
That's why OE is usually preferable -- NOT because it's necessarily "better", but because it's usually less of a gamble.
I use OE for critical parts like electronics, sensors, timing components, oil/air filters etc.
I'll use aftermarket for some brakes if the OE ones have issues and some suspension components such as ball joints, sway bar links etc.
Really though it depends on how long the OE lasts and if there is an improved part design to solve a flaw in the OE design.
I'll use aftermarket for some brakes if the OE ones have issues and some suspension components such as ball joints, sway bar links etc.
Really though it depends on how long the OE lasts and if there is an improved part design to solve a flaw in the OE design.
In the Hyundai and Kia, I only use OEM parts bought off of eBay. They're cheaper than aftermarket and better quality. For the Nissan, I rarely buy OEM. They're too expensive for that car.
Nick1994
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It depends on what you're getting, and what kind of car. I typically like OEM thermostats, but when I paid like $40 for an OEM thermostat for my Jeep. Afterwards i decided to go to AutoZone and try one form there. The SAME Motorad thermostat was about 25% of the dealership price.
Dealers can be absolute rip offs for some parts.
Dealers can be absolute rip offs for some parts.
It's easier to buy OEM parts for Ford, GM, and some European cars than it is to buy OE for Japanese cars.
For example, OEM GM and Ford/Motorcraft radiators and new CV axles are usually around $200. Japanese OEM radiators are hideously expensive, often above $400 even in the cheapest cars. And OE NEW CV axles for Japanese cars are essentially impossible to obtain at any price, and "OEM" reman is like $400, and done by Cardone.
If you're not lucky enough to have Raxles make reman axles for your car, you're stuck with scrap metal Cardone.
Denso's aftermarket radiators are OK, but they are not the same as the OE Denso from a Toyota or Honda dealer.
For non-routine repairs, I almost always go OE, if I can find it.
US-made aftermarket parts are usually OK. Rubber pieces are usually OK to buy aftermarket. Almost any part that is one piece is OK to buy aftermarket.
High performance parts, and wear items like brakes, tires, oil/filters, etc. it's better to go aftermarket. OE tires are usually garbage, even inferior to aftermarket tires of the same name that you'd by at the tire shop or online.
In American cars that don't have a transmission drain plug because they were too stupid to include one, there is usually an aftermarket pan that has one.
For example, OEM GM and Ford/Motorcraft radiators and new CV axles are usually around $200. Japanese OEM radiators are hideously expensive, often above $400 even in the cheapest cars. And OE NEW CV axles for Japanese cars are essentially impossible to obtain at any price, and "OEM" reman is like $400, and done by Cardone.
If you're not lucky enough to have Raxles make reman axles for your car, you're stuck with scrap metal Cardone.
Denso's aftermarket radiators are OK, but they are not the same as the OE Denso from a Toyota or Honda dealer.
For non-routine repairs, I almost always go OE, if I can find it.
US-made aftermarket parts are usually OK. Rubber pieces are usually OK to buy aftermarket. Almost any part that is one piece is OK to buy aftermarket.
High performance parts, and wear items like brakes, tires, oil/filters, etc. it's better to go aftermarket. OE tires are usually garbage, even inferior to aftermarket tires of the same name that you'd by at the tire shop or online.
In American cars that don't have a transmission drain plug because they were too stupid to include one, there is usually an aftermarket pan that has one.
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
AFAIK, whether it's completely equivalent to OE depends on why it's not being sold as such. If it was a production overrun that was still within MB's tolerances, or if Wahler just used the same (or better) tolerances themselves, then it's equivalent. If it wasn't suitable for the MB brand because it somehow fell outside of their tolerances, then it may not be.
I've been wondering about that recently. Are the parts with the OE logo scratched off made to be sold as private label, overruns or were they out of spec by x%?
That's a real good point, are they overruns or do they fail to meet a stricter spec but could be considered okay for second tier.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
AFAIK, whether it's completely equivalent to OE depends on why it's not being sold as such. If it was a production overrun that was still within MB's tolerances, or if Wahler just used the same (or better) tolerances themselves, then it's equivalent. If it wasn't suitable for the MB brand because it somehow fell outside of their tolerances, then it may not be.
I've been wondering about that recently. Are the parts with the OE logo scratched off made to be sold as private label, overruns or were they out of spec by x%?
That's a real good point, are they overruns or do they fail to meet a stricter spec but could be considered okay for second tier.
Generalizations are always true ---- or at least some people think so.
My experience with Japanese cars has been is that parts-store parts are sometimes better, sometimes equivalent, sometimes worse, and nearly always a lot less expensive.
My experience with Japanese cars has been is that parts-store parts are sometimes better, sometimes equivalent, sometimes worse, and nearly always a lot less expensive.
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My personal experience has been aftermarket parts actually work as good, or better then Original factory parts. one example, I had the coil pack on my '02 Ford explorer go bad when it had 77k miles on it. Replaced with a aftermarket replacement coil pack, that's still going strong at 200k miles. Factory brake pads also don't seem to last as long as some of the cheaper aftermarket pads. Just like oil, car makers don't make most of their parts. They get parts made for a price point, that they hope will last a little longer then whatever warranty they give. for that vehicle. I don't see any reason for being loyal to any mfgrs oe parts, unless you just can't find them in the aftermarket.,,
From what I've seen there are sometimes true "OE" parts available for Toyota and Honda but not very many. The Aisin parts like water and oil pumps are absolutely identical to the OE, just not with the logo intact. If they are somehow "seconds" I have no idea how that could be the case and so far every one has held up like the original. 555 used to make a lot of Toyota parts and those too held up like the originals, but for this last suspension refresh I did on the Sienna I got Toyota branded parts since they were only slightly more than the equivalent 555 parts and I could get them quicker. The parts that arrived from Toyota were no longer manufactured by 555 but some other manufacturer, so things can change.
For the rest of the stuff I buy I usually get it online from a Toyota dealer. It's close to the cost of a premium aftermarket part and sometimes you get surprised when it includes a bracket or other ancillary part the aftermarket did not.
The BMW is completely different. You know who made most parts and the ones you get from Lemforder or Behr are identical to the BMW ones. Again though you pay almost as much as you do from an online BMW dealer.
For the rest of the stuff I buy I usually get it online from a Toyota dealer. It's close to the cost of a premium aftermarket part and sometimes you get surprised when it includes a bracket or other ancillary part the aftermarket did not.
The BMW is completely different. You know who made most parts and the ones you get from Lemforder or Behr are identical to the BMW ones. Again though you pay almost as much as you do from an online BMW dealer.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
There's no question that the people who design cars don't get everything right. The question is, if someone DIDN'T design the car, how likely are they to do a better job? If they did, how could I as an amateur even tell? And if I didn't like the way the designers did something, such that I'd want to change it with aftermarket parts... why on earth would I have the car in the first place?
That's why I always go for cars that are fit-for-purpose (and budget) from the factory, and service them with almost nothing but OE parts, with VERY few exceptions. Had the best luck that way, by far.
BTW, there's an important difference between OE and OEM:
OE = Original Equipment = The exact part that came on your car, or an updated version from the car's manufacturer.
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = The "same" part made on the same assembly line by the same company that makes the part for the car manufacturer. Could be identical, or could be slightly off.
Usually -- and with some notable exceptions -- OE has the best performance and quality control, followed by OEM, and then other aftermarket stuff. That's why pricing and warranty coverage -- again, with notable exceptions -- generally follow the same trend.
Here's a few things you're missing. The people who design the cars design it to a certain budget with all sorts of compromises. The aftermarket sees the results of the failures and can design a better part. The manufacturer has certain constraints they still have to abide by. Case in point was sway bar links. Ford use to make them out of plastic. Meant they were weak and broke pretty reliability every 2 years or so. I got aftermarket metal ones. Didn't end up replacing them. They probably had to be plastic to keep the weight down. Same thing with their water pumps, at one point, they used plastic for the impellers. I'm sure that kept the weight down, but they tended to break and fall apart. Aftermarkets didn't care about weight restrictions or CAFE so they were metal ones. OEM all the time can be a flawed mentality. You can have the same problem with OEM tires, lousy grip or whatever issues due to CAFE. Aftermarket doesn't care about worse gas mileage.
I did take care not to speak in absolutes and repeatedly mention exceptions.
I used to own an E36 M3, so I'm well acquainted with parts that sucked from the factory and were fixed in the aftermarket. I'm also running a couple of non-OE parts on my current car because I made a careful decision to change certain things about the car (and accept the negative consequences).
The point here isn't whether exceptions exist; the point is the overall trend, which is clear -- and on which you and I seem to agree.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
But yeah, I'd agree with the OE push. It's funny with Mercedes, Wahler makes their thermostats and when you buy the part, the spot where you'd see the MB logo is burred out. Still an OE part, but cheaper because it's not OEM.
That's funny.
AFAIK, whether it's completely equivalent to OE depends on why it's not being sold as such. If it was a production overrun that was still within MB's tolerances, or if Wahler just used the same (or better) tolerances themselves, then it's equivalent. If it wasn't suitable for the MB brand because it somehow fell outside of their tolerances, then it may not be.
Either way, still a dang sight better than a parts store special.
I guess it's good to have choices. OE or OEM if I think the original part lasted long enough and I think the quality is there. But sometimes aftermarket parts have those lifetime warranties but OE or OEM do not and if I know I'm going to be replacing it again, then I'd rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty than an OE warranty that may only be 2 years. Suspension components come to mind. I'd hate to pay top dollar for OE, then have it fail in 3-4 years when it's out of warranty. Rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty. Maybe I'm just too much of a Moog fan boy, they used to be pretty good parts, but now people are saying they're not as good as they used to be. I think a ball joint or strut can only last so many miles before they wear out. I liked lifetime brake pad warranties, I think I got 3 sets of pads out of one purchase in the past. Too bad Akebono is only 30 days.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
There's no question that the people who design cars don't get everything right. The question is, if someone DIDN'T design the car, how likely are they to do a better job? If they did, how could I as an amateur even tell? And if I didn't like the way the designers did something, such that I'd want to change it with aftermarket parts... why on earth would I have the car in the first place?
That's why I always go for cars that are fit-for-purpose (and budget) from the factory, and service them with almost nothing but OE parts, with VERY few exceptions. Had the best luck that way, by far.
BTW, there's an important difference between OE and OEM:
OE = Original Equipment = The exact part that came on your car, or an updated version from the car's manufacturer.
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = The "same" part made on the same assembly line by the same company that makes the part for the car manufacturer. Could be identical, or could be slightly off.
Usually -- and with some notable exceptions -- OE has the best performance and quality control, followed by OEM, and then other aftermarket stuff. That's why pricing and warranty coverage -- again, with notable exceptions -- generally follow the same trend.
Here's a few things you're missing. The people who design the cars design it to a certain budget with all sorts of compromises. The aftermarket sees the results of the failures and can design a better part. The manufacturer has certain constraints they still have to abide by. Case in point was sway bar links. Ford use to make them out of plastic. Meant they were weak and broke pretty reliability every 2 years or so. I got aftermarket metal ones. Didn't end up replacing them. They probably had to be plastic to keep the weight down. Same thing with their water pumps, at one point, they used plastic for the impellers. I'm sure that kept the weight down, but they tended to break and fall apart. Aftermarkets didn't care about weight restrictions or CAFE so they were metal ones. OEM all the time can be a flawed mentality. You can have the same problem with OEM tires, lousy grip or whatever issues due to CAFE. Aftermarket doesn't care about worse gas mileage.
I did take care not to speak in absolutes and repeatedly mention exceptions.
I used to own an E36 M3, so I'm well acquainted with parts that sucked from the factory and were fixed in the aftermarket. I'm also running a couple of non-OE parts on my current car because I made a careful decision to change certain things about the car (and accept the negative consequences).
The point here isn't whether exceptions exist; the point is the overall trend, which is clear -- and on which you and I seem to agree.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
But yeah, I'd agree with the OE push. It's funny with Mercedes, Wahler makes their thermostats and when you buy the part, the spot where you'd see the MB logo is burred out. Still an OE part, but cheaper because it's not OEM.
That's funny.
AFAIK, whether it's completely equivalent to OE depends on why it's not being sold as such. If it was a production overrun that was still within MB's tolerances, or if Wahler just used the same (or better) tolerances themselves, then it's equivalent. If it wasn't suitable for the MB brand because it somehow fell outside of their tolerances, then it may not be.
Either way, still a dang sight better than a parts store special.
I guess it's good to have choices. OE or OEM if I think the original part lasted long enough and I think the quality is there. But sometimes aftermarket parts have those lifetime warranties but OE or OEM do not and if I know I'm going to be replacing it again, then I'd rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty than an OE warranty that may only be 2 years. Suspension components come to mind. I'd hate to pay top dollar for OE, then have it fail in 3-4 years when it's out of warranty. Rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty. Maybe I'm just too much of a Moog fan boy, they used to be pretty good parts, but now people are saying they're not as good as they used to be. I think a ball joint or strut can only last so many miles before they wear out. I liked lifetime brake pad warranties, I think I got 3 sets of pads out of one purchase in the past. Too bad Akebono is only 30 days.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I guess it's good to have choices. OE or OEM if I think the original part lasted long enough and I think the quality is there. But sometimes aftermarket parts have those lifetime warranties but OE or OEM do not and if I know I'm going to be replacing it again, then I'd rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty than an OE warranty that may only be 2 years. Suspension components come to mind. I'd hate to pay top dollar for OE, then have it fail in 3-4 years when it's out of warranty. Rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty. Maybe I'm just too much of a Moog fan boy, they used to be pretty good parts, but now people are saying they're not as good as they used to be. I think a ball joint or strut can only last so many miles before they wear out. I liked lifetime brake pad warranties, I think I got 3 sets of pads out of one purchase in the past. Too bad Akebono is only 30 days.
Do you shop at FCPEuro.com? Lifetime warranties on literally everything that can be physically returned, including wear parts like brakes!
I guess it's good to have choices. OE or OEM if I think the original part lasted long enough and I think the quality is there. But sometimes aftermarket parts have those lifetime warranties but OE or OEM do not and if I know I'm going to be replacing it again, then I'd rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty than an OE warranty that may only be 2 years. Suspension components come to mind. I'd hate to pay top dollar for OE, then have it fail in 3-4 years when it's out of warranty. Rather get an aftermarket lifetime warranty. Maybe I'm just too much of a Moog fan boy, they used to be pretty good parts, but now people are saying they're not as good as they used to be. I think a ball joint or strut can only last so many miles before they wear out. I liked lifetime brake pad warranties, I think I got 3 sets of pads out of one purchase in the past. Too bad Akebono is only 30 days.
Do you shop at FCPEuro.com? Lifetime warranties on literally everything that can be physically returned, including wear parts like brakes!
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Do you shop at FCPEuro.com? Lifetime warranties on literally everything that can be physically returned, including wear parts like brakes!
FCP is awesome!
Do you shop at FCPEuro.com? Lifetime warranties on literally everything that can be physically returned, including wear parts like brakes!
FCP is awesome!
As supton stayed If aftermarket has a part that fixes a failing in the OE design, go aftermarket. Had this issue with ford caliper brackets. Purchased aftermarket that stated their brackets fixed the factory design flaw.
By the time I get a car they're 15-ish years old and the aftermarket has entered the sweet spot of competition. They've been popping out replacement parts for a few years and paid off the design/ tooling. Even the cheap stuff I get from eBay works well, I figure it's the same factory turning out white-box parts when nobody's looking. Look at a lower control arm for a Chevy HHR-- if it's not OE aluminum it's aftermarket stamped steel and they pretty much all use the same stock photo.
I don't see how a genuine coil pack for a 2002 camry can still cost $70. It's 50 cents worth of copper and rubber and the design's been used for at least a decade. I don't think Toyota pays Denso anything near that and don't see why I should have to.
When a car is new to when it's a few years old, OE is about the only reliable place to get parts. And they're expensive without much competition to improve design or drive down prices.
I don't see how a genuine coil pack for a 2002 camry can still cost $70. It's 50 cents worth of copper and rubber and the design's been used for at least a decade. I don't think Toyota pays Denso anything near that and don't see why I should have to.
When a car is new to when it's a few years old, OE is about the only reliable place to get parts. And they're expensive without much competition to improve design or drive down prices.
on my 14 yo Jeep, I can get a lot of OEM off ebay. When I replaced the trans filter used OEM filter, felpro gasket and a dorman pan, because it had a drain plug. worked like a champ.
recently had to replace a bushing in the shifter linkage and the OEM from the dealer was only a buck or so higher and it was in stock.
recently had to replace a bushing in the shifter linkage and the OEM from the dealer was only a buck or so higher and it was in stock.
On the Audi, the OEM parts, albeit from different suppliers than the dealer, was usually the cheapest option, better than a lot of aftermarket items with respect to pricing. That has happened with the G37 in a couple respects, but it's not the norm.
If the dealer is selling parts at a reasonable price and OEM items are actually a significantly good quality part, I'm all for it. I won't pay $8 for an FL1A over a $4.99 Wix 51515, but I will pay $80 for a set of Motorcraft wires with lifetime warranty over something questionable at half the price.
If the dealer is selling parts at a reasonable price and OEM items are actually a significantly good quality part, I'm all for it. I won't pay $8 for an FL1A over a $4.99 Wix 51515, but I will pay $80 for a set of Motorcraft wires with lifetime warranty over something questionable at half the price.
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