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No problem.
The mount can take a tap. It's got more than enough meat there.
The mount can take a tap. It's got more than enough meat there.
Using FF engine filter for trans.
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fwiw, the trans on old Audis takes a spin-on. I need to buy one too. Wish I oculd just use a cheap car filter.
So should I just plumb the filter head directly in line with the cooler or should I "T" it off with some check valves and make a loop off of the cooler return line? BTW I'll be using the M1 FL1A equivalent for now.
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
fwiw, the trans on old Audis takes a spin-on. I need to buy one too. Wish I oculd just use a cheap car filter.
What's the part number? I went through WIX and I could not find a spin-on trans filter from the 100-through current offerings. Naturally if they don't make it they're not going to list it ..but every spin-on is going to have a thread and a gasket and whatever ..and all of that can be put into an attribute search to see what will work.
Originally Posted By: UncleRunkle
So should I just plumb the filter head directly in line with the cooler or should I "T" it off with some check valves and make a loop off of the cooler return line? BTW I'll be using the M1 FL1A equivalent for now.
I couldn't wrap around what you're describing (I'm easily confused ..hmm..and many times confuse others, myself - odd combo - maybe not
)
You can plumb it straight up if it's a full flow filter.
fwiw, the trans on old Audis takes a spin-on. I need to buy one too. Wish I oculd just use a cheap car filter.
What's the part number? I went through WIX and I could not find a spin-on trans filter from the 100-through current offerings. Naturally if they don't make it they're not going to list it ..but every spin-on is going to have a thread and a gasket and whatever ..and all of that can be put into an attribute search to see what will work.
Originally Posted By: UncleRunkle
So should I just plumb the filter head directly in line with the cooler or should I "T" it off with some check valves and make a loop off of the cooler return line? BTW I'll be using the M1 FL1A equivalent for now.
You can plumb it straight up if it's a full flow filter.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: UncleRunkle
So should I just plumb the filter head directly in line with the cooler or should I "T" it off with some check valves and make a loop off of the cooler return line? BTW I'll be using the M1 FL1A equivalent for now.
I couldn't wrap around what you're describing (I'm easily confused ..hmm..and many times confuse others, myself - odd combo - maybe not
)
You can plumb it straight up if it's a full flow filter.
I was thinking of put a "t" into the cooler return line that would feed the ff filter and have a thermostatic valve/one way check valve controlling flow to the filter. Filtered fluid would go back to the return line via a second "T".
Originally Posted By: UncleRunkle
So should I just plumb the filter head directly in line with the cooler or should I "T" it off with some check valves and make a loop off of the cooler return line? BTW I'll be using the M1 FL1A equivalent for now.
You can plumb it straight up if it's a full flow filter.
I was thinking of put a "t" into the cooler return line that would feed the ff filter and have a thermostatic valve/one way check valve controlling flow to the filter. Filtered fluid would go back to the return line via a second "T".
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I'm too thick here. Any chance of drawing a picture in MSPaint?
The way you're describing it (in my foggy head) means that it would bypass the cooler all together. That you can do with a very restrictive bypass filter ..but a full flow would basically render the trans cooler worthless.
I'm probably reading you wrong
The way you're describing it (in my foggy head) means that it would bypass the cooler all together. That you can do with a very restrictive bypass filter ..but a full flow would basically render the trans cooler worthless.
I'm probably reading you wrong
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Okay ..the way I NOW see it, you're going to rig a full flow in the return line. It's going to be bypassed when cold with a thermostat.
No need, imo. ATF is very thin and you shouldn't have to worry about it.
One thing about most oil thermostats that I've encountered. They all appear to have some flow through them when full biased in the closed position. With something like water (I've attempted to use them for coolant) or AFT, this renders them mostly useless as flow blockers. They can be used effectively as a flow diverter if one was using an auxiliary cooler run in parallel with an in radiator cooler. There you would have the closed return circuit running to the in rad cooler and the normally closed/hot open ports running to the auxiliary. You can even do this in line up or down stream of the in rad cooler.
No need, imo. ATF is very thin and you shouldn't have to worry about it.
One thing about most oil thermostats that I've encountered. They all appear to have some flow through them when full biased in the closed position. With something like water (I've attempted to use them for coolant) or AFT, this renders them mostly useless as flow blockers. They can be used effectively as a flow diverter if one was using an auxiliary cooler run in parallel with an in radiator cooler. There you would have the closed return circuit running to the in rad cooler and the normally closed/hot open ports running to the auxiliary. You can even do this in line up or down stream of the in rad cooler.
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