Hi folks, I have never been a fan of fast oil flushes, but I was on another forum (Dakota Durango ) I was told by other members of that forum that Dodge 4.7 v8 engines should be flushed annually in addition to 3k oci. I don't like using flushes on older engines because chunks can break off and plug passages. And I don't like using them on newer engines because because they can really thin the oil. I recently (may2011) installed a re man 4.7 in my Durango (I am the 3rd owner, and the only one who knew/knows that you have to change the engine oil) because the previous engine had failed. All that being said... do these engines require annual flushes in addition to 3k?
using crank case oil flushes frequently?
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Sorry I got cut off. I know that when a flush is to be used that it should be used right before you dump the oil.
I have never seen any written documentation either. I don't ever plan to flush this motor because I Change the oil frequently.
3k OCI's are absolutely unnecessary as well. It took me a long time to get that through my thick skull. It has no benefit whatsoever. Use a quality major brand API SN/SM certified oil and 5k OCI's at a minimum.
Many people on the vehicle specific forums really have no clue when it comes to lubrication.
No flush should be needed with a high quality oil.
No flush should be needed with a high quality oil.
Since no one here knows anything about anyone else it is impossible to simply assign some random value as the 'perfect" OCI.
Everyone uses their vehicle a bit differently, we're all different.
Same with additives, all of them are seldom needed. BUT there are always certain folks who can use one, sometimes to dramatic effect.
Kreen is a great example. But it is almost certain to be over-used by our oil crazy members.
Everyone uses their vehicle a bit differently, we're all different.
Same with additives, all of them are seldom needed. BUT there are always certain folks who can use one, sometimes to dramatic effect.
Kreen is a great example. But it is almost certain to be over-used by our oil crazy members.
Hello spag1 I have a Jeep I bought new and have never done oil flush in its 18 years and it runs great. I have always changed oil between 3500-4000 miles. I always change filter when I change the oil. And I always use a good quality oil and keep it topped off to full on stick.
I do run a 5w30 oil in winter months and a 10w30 in summer months. So I change my oil with the weather so to speak.
I really think the key is to do your oil change and filter change frequently and use good products.
Enjoy your new engine.
I do run a 5w30 oil in winter months and a 10w30 in summer months. So I change my oil with the weather so to speak.
I really think the key is to do your oil change and filter change frequently and use good products.
Enjoy your new engine.
the amount of oil wasted by the Iffly lube marketing on 3 k changes in the last 20 years is probably a lot
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
The money made off of the amount of oil wasted by the Iffly lube marketing on 3 k changes in the last 20 years is probably a lot
Fixed that for you
The money made off of the amount of oil wasted by the Iffly lube marketing on 3 k changes in the last 20 years is probably a lot
Fixed that for you
I would say that a flush product is probably not needed if you start with a clean engine, which you have, and give it regular changes.
As long as the additive pack is not used up prior to the end of a change interval, the oil should be good to go.
You probably don't really need to do 3K changes, but if this somewhat oddball engine is a known sludger, you might.
Another factor is your use of the vehicle.
Short trips, never get it warm?
3K might be just right.
Usually drive it long enough to get the oil up to operating temperature?
3K is probably not needed.
If you are worried about what drain interval to use, why not UOA the oil after 3K of your typical use?
Make sure to get TBN done, and see what the oil looks like.
If wear metals seem in line with what is typical with these engines, and residual TBN looks high enough, extend your drains.
At this point, though, this is still a fairly new engine, and is likely still making metal, especially since the reman was probably not built in conditions as clean as those used by the factory and was probably not as accurately machined as a factory original engine.
As long as the additive pack is not used up prior to the end of a change interval, the oil should be good to go.
You probably don't really need to do 3K changes, but if this somewhat oddball engine is a known sludger, you might.
Another factor is your use of the vehicle.
Short trips, never get it warm?
3K might be just right.
Usually drive it long enough to get the oil up to operating temperature?
3K is probably not needed.
If you are worried about what drain interval to use, why not UOA the oil after 3K of your typical use?
Make sure to get TBN done, and see what the oil looks like.
If wear metals seem in line with what is typical with these engines, and residual TBN looks high enough, extend your drains.
At this point, though, this is still a fairly new engine, and is likely still making metal, especially since the reman was probably not built in conditions as clean as those used by the factory and was probably not as accurately machined as a factory original engine.
I would not say that flushes have NO uses, but I would say that in 99.9% of cases they are unnecessary.
If you do decide to do a flush, I would suggest "preparing" your car by doing something similar to the following:
- Run Pennzoil Plat/Ultra for the OCI prior and add MMO for the last half, or Seafoam for the last 200-300mi
- Run Redline for the OCI prior
Both will clean very well and "soften" the sludge making it easier to dissolve into solution.
Then again, Redline cleans so well that after a couple OCIs of just RL w/o any additives, your engine will likely be shiny clean. It has worked on a number of my cars, and it worked for Overk1ll as well (he has pics).
I think Royal Purple is an excellent oil.as well, and while it doesn't clean quite like RL, it has kept my engines clean.
If you do decide to do a flush, I would suggest "preparing" your car by doing something similar to the following:
- Run Pennzoil Plat/Ultra for the OCI prior and add MMO for the last half, or Seafoam for the last 200-300mi
- Run Redline for the OCI prior
Both will clean very well and "soften" the sludge making it easier to dissolve into solution.
Then again, Redline cleans so well that after a couple OCIs of just RL w/o any additives, your engine will likely be shiny clean. It has worked on a number of my cars, and it worked for Overk1ll as well (he has pics).
I think Royal Purple is an excellent oil.as well, and while it doesn't clean quite like RL, it has kept my engines clean.
Depends on where the question is asked what the answer will be...Over here its all about oil, no in depth knowledge of the vehicle (in most BITOG replies regarding oil choices). Over there its all about the vehicle, no in depth knowledge of oil.
What we know..answers on forums are historical depending on the posting date. The new SN or dexos compliant oils from any vendor can do what older oils from older posts on forums could not - keep the engine clean.
Rather than compete the two forums for answers, go in the middle, use a good oil that cleans rather than a cheap oil and a cleaner.
What we know..answers on forums are historical depending on the posting date. The new SN or dexos compliant oils from any vendor can do what older oils from older posts on forums could not - keep the engine clean.
Rather than compete the two forums for answers, go in the middle, use a good oil that cleans rather than a cheap oil and a cleaner.
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
Hello spag1 I have a Jeep I bought new and have never done oil flush in its 18 years and it runs great. I have always changed oil between 3500-4000 miles. I always change filter when I change the oil. And I always use a good quality oil and keep it topped off to full on stick.
I do run a 5w30 oil in winter months and a 10w30 in summer months. So I change my oil with the weather so to speak.
I really think the key is to do your oil change and filter change frequently and use good products.
Enjoy your new engine.
Thank-you tonydoc, and thanks to everyone for your responses. I just wanted to know if what the people on the other forum said was true. And with unanimous answers from my friends here on bitog it is not true. Thank you all.
PS. I do 3k oil changes because the Chrysler 4.7 is possibly considered a sludge prone engine, and when I first got it, the PCV valve was plugged and there was lots of sludge under the valve covers. After doing three 3k oil changes with pp, the sludge was gone. After that I used whatever Dino was on sale ( mainly super tech, pyb, qs, and moto tech) and the engine was squeaky clean. Even when it died. The cause of failure was a broken piston ring that got lodged in an oil galley and spun a crank bearing.
Hello spag1 I have a Jeep I bought new and have never done oil flush in its 18 years and it runs great. I have always changed oil between 3500-4000 miles. I always change filter when I change the oil. And I always use a good quality oil and keep it topped off to full on stick.
I do run a 5w30 oil in winter months and a 10w30 in summer months. So I change my oil with the weather so to speak.
I really think the key is to do your oil change and filter change frequently and use good products.
Enjoy your new engine.
Thank-you tonydoc, and thanks to everyone for your responses. I just wanted to know if what the people on the other forum said was true. And with unanimous answers from my friends here on bitog it is not true. Thank you all.
PS. I do 3k oil changes because the Chrysler 4.7 is possibly considered a sludge prone engine, and when I first got it, the PCV valve was plugged and there was lots of sludge under the valve covers. After doing three 3k oil changes with pp, the sludge was gone. After that I used whatever Dino was on sale ( mainly super tech, pyb, qs, and moto tech) and the engine was squeaky clean. Even when it died. The cause of failure was a broken piston ring that got lodged in an oil galley and spun a crank bearing.
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
3k OCI's are absolutely unnecessary as well. It took me a long time to get that through my thick skull. It has no benefit whatsoever. Use a quality major brand API SN/SM certified oil and 5k OCI's at a minimum.
Unless you have a 98 Intrepid with oil sludge issue and running conventional oil..3,000 miles is the max..LOL!
3k OCI's are absolutely unnecessary as well. It took me a long time to get that through my thick skull. It has no benefit whatsoever. Use a quality major brand API SN/SM certified oil and 5k OCI's at a minimum.
Unless you have a 98 Intrepid with oil sludge issue and running conventional oil..3,000 miles is the max..LOL!
I ran Amsoil's flush with a fresh filter through my Envoy at 67K before switching to Amsoil OE (and another fresh filter) from dino. Just let the engine idle about 15 minutes and what came out was the blackest used oil I ever saw. I'm planning on another oil change at 72K since the synthetics do a great cleaning job on their own. After that I'll change closer to the OLM.
Will I run another bottle of Amsoil Flush through the engine? Maybe at 100K.
Will I run another bottle of Amsoil Flush through the engine? Maybe at 100K.
Flushes scare me because the vast majority of people (i.e. Non-BITOGers) do not think to slowly prepare their engine for such a procedure, but rather dump it in and risk clogging oil passages, oil pickup, etc. When I say prepping, I mean something akin to: running PP/PU/RL for 1-2x OCI's, then running PP/PU/RL + 16-20oz MMO for 1+ OCI with perhaps (assuming 3x3kmi OCI's) gradually-increasing amounts of Seafoam added at the very end of each OCI and for varying lengths of time (i.e. 6oz for 150mi then dump, then 12oz for 200mi then dump, then 16oz for 75-100mi then dump). This will soften the sludge, break it down slowly and allow it to go into suspension, and greatly reduce chances of problems. After that, I would do a short OCI of PU/RL without additives to assess improvement while allowing the sludge some fresh oil to dissolve into and a fresh adpak to keep things, well, fresh. Follow this OCI by a run with a STRONG cleaner like Kreen, as well as doing a piston soak, and then, if still sludged, you can go to a HARSH cleaning method such as a flushing product.
I would also use good filters and change them 3x per OCI to be on the safe side, as it pulls crud out and allows you to freshen up the oil. I also.think it would be a good time to use Seafoam or similar to clean the Throttle Body (with a toothbrush to agitate), run through brake booster and PCV lines to clean top-end, and maybe clean out EGR/SAP and lines. I would also use Redline SI-1 every third tank of gas throughout the process.
Then, when done with everything, replace fuel filter, PCV Valve, and pick an EXCELLENT syn oil to run from that point forward (Pen Plat/Ultra, Royal Purple, Redline all are excellent oils and clean like crazy).
Btw, I would say this too...
Mild Cleaner - MMO
Moderate Cleaner - Seafoam (when used in crankcase... strong cleaner in gas/top-end/TB)
Strong Cleaner - Kreen
HARSH CLEANER - Oil Flush
The above is my opinion, not fact, and there are plenty of other products available in each category.
I would also use good filters and change them 3x per OCI to be on the safe side, as it pulls crud out and allows you to freshen up the oil. I also.think it would be a good time to use Seafoam or similar to clean the Throttle Body (with a toothbrush to agitate), run through brake booster and PCV lines to clean top-end, and maybe clean out EGR/SAP and lines. I would also use Redline SI-1 every third tank of gas throughout the process.
Then, when done with everything, replace fuel filter, PCV Valve, and pick an EXCELLENT syn oil to run from that point forward (Pen Plat/Ultra, Royal Purple, Redline all are excellent oils and clean like crazy).
Btw, I would say this too...
Mild Cleaner - MMO
Moderate Cleaner - Seafoam (when used in crankcase... strong cleaner in gas/top-end/TB)
Strong Cleaner - Kreen
HARSH CLEANER - Oil Flush
The above is my opinion, not fact, and there are plenty of other products available in each category.
ANYTIME YOU USE AN OIL FLUSH PRODUCT, ESPECIALLY IN A HIGH MILEAGE CAR YOU RISK SERIOUS DAMAGE FROM DEBRIS THAT BECOMES DISLODGED DURING THE CLEANING PROCESS, CLOGGING OIL PASSAGES IN THE ENGINE OR DEBRIS SEIZING THE OIL PUMP!
Even with a poorly maintained engine if you want to clean it out simply use a quality High Detergent Oil like Mobil Delvac or
Shell Rotella T5.
Unless the engine seems to be damaged the only thing you should put in the crankcase is OIL, nothing more.
Even with a poorly maintained engine if you want to clean it out simply use a quality High Detergent Oil like Mobil Delvac or
Shell Rotella T5.
Unless the engine seems to be damaged the only thing you should put in the crankcase is OIL, nothing more.
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If you change the oil the insides should stay clean forever, so I don't see the point of such products.
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