Because here 0W is not a weight, it is a performance rating. It, along with the other winter ratings are tested at low temperatures. All they really do is show how massively thick the oil is at those temperatures and it is entirely possible for a 5W rated oil to be thinner than a 0W rated one depending on what temperature it is being tested. Only at temperatures well below 0F (-25F and below) will a 0W oil be guaranteed to deviate and be thinner. But it is always too thick, it is never too thin. "Thinness" here is relative, never is it "thin" like at operating temperature.
Using 0W40 Instead Of Recommended 5W20/5W30
- Thread starter BlueOvalFitter
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Triple_Se7en
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I have a couple bathroom 6oz Dixie Cups to test that theory. One filled with 0W - other with 30W.
But first - please tell me where I can buy a quart of OW oil?......lol
But first - please tell me where I can buy a quart of OW oil?......lol
After you tell me where I can buy a quart of 30W oil.
Originally Posted by kschachn
After you tell me where I can buy a quart of 30W oil.
Here ya go ...
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/07/full-63158-34225-motor_oil_syneco_epoque_30w60.jpg "[Linked Image]")
After you tell me where I can buy a quart of 30W oil.
Here ya go ...
Originally Posted by kschachn
It depends on the temperature. .... A 0W oil is not automatically thinner than another rated oil and all are massively thick at low temperatures.
It depends on a number of things.
Base oil makeup and pour-point-depressants are everything.
It depends on the temperature. .... A 0W oil is not automatically thinner than another rated oil and all are massively thick at low temperatures.
It depends on a number of things.
Base oil makeup and pour-point-depressants are everything.
Never underestimate the power of someone to make something up...
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by kschachn
After you tell me where I can buy a quart of 30W oil.
Here ya go ...
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by kschachn
After you tell me where I can buy a quart of 30W oil.
Here ya go ...
Unless we're talking trying to crank the engine in temperatures below about 0*F, I mostly ignore the first number. That said, usually a 10w-xx or 15w-xx will start with higher viscosity base oils and need less viscosity modifier (or none at all) to achieve the multi-grade compared to a 5w-xx or 0w-xx. While the 5w-xx and 0w-xx oils may use superior base oils, I don't feel like this makes a big difference at operating temperature for a daily driver.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Before operating occurs, cold startup must occur. Unless you live in Oman near member John344, where it's 130 degrees lately. But hey, the nights are nice.... only 113 degrees.
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My thread and experience running 0W-40 M1 Euro in my fleet - https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...28317/just-run-m1-0w-40-euro#Post5128317
Thanks for all of the replies.
I started this post because I'm thinking about going back to a 0W40 in my engine. When WM had a clearance on Castrol Euro 0W40 a couple of years ago, I bought some and used it in my 4.2 V6. That was the quietest that engine has ever run since buying it new (6 miles) in 07. But, next OCI, I'm going to try the Havoline full synthetic 6 qt. box to see how my 4.2 V6 likes it..
Q?; While at WM earlier today, I saw that M1 makes a 0W30. Which of the two (0W30 or 0W40) would be a better choice?
I started this post because I'm thinking about going back to a 0W40 in my engine. When WM had a clearance on Castrol Euro 0W40 a couple of years ago, I bought some and used it in my 4.2 V6. That was the quietest that engine has ever run since buying it new (6 miles) in 07. But, next OCI, I'm going to try the Havoline full synthetic 6 qt. box to see how my 4.2 V6 likes it..
Q?; While at WM earlier today, I saw that M1 makes a 0W30. Which of the two (0W30 or 0W40) would be a better choice?
Which one would be better is wholly dependent upon your definition of 'better' as it applies to your specific scenario.
If you can explain what would make one oil a better choice for you over another, the replies giving you an answer will start pouring in I bet.
Any received prior to that are just opinions, in my opinion...
If you can explain what would make one oil a better choice for you over another, the replies giving you an answer will start pouring in I bet.
Any received prior to that are just opinions, in my opinion...
My previous oil was Mobil 1 European Formula 0W-40. It was used for 3,000 miles or 180 hours of severe use (Stop and go traffic, occasional pulls, spirited driving, highway driving with abrupt stops, 2-4 hours straight, daily for the past 4 months) My 1988 Honda Civic LX requires a 5w30 or 10w30, but I was curious about a 0W-40 in the D15B2 engine; I have to say, it felt better compared to 5w30. By feeling better, in terms of smoother operation. Obviously my car is 31 years old as of posting this so the technology is becoming more outdated with port fuel injection and no cam phasing. To conclude what I want to say, it would not really hurt anything unless your engine uses cam phasing like VTEC or VVT. I really wouldn't know how an engine would react to higher than recommended viscosity oil in an engine with cam phasing. But if its an older engine design, I would have no worries. Hope my post wasn't too long, I simply enjoy to talk about car stuff. PS: I already sent out the used oil sample of M1 to Blackstone and I am just waiting for the result to get back.
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Thanks for all of the replies.
I started this post because I'm thinking about going back to a 0W40 in my engine. When WM had a clearance on Castrol Euro 0W40 a couple of years ago, I bought some and used it in my 4.2 V6. That was the quietest that engine has ever run since buying it new (6 miles) in 07. But, next OCI, I'm going to try the Havoline full synthetic 6 qt. box to see how my 4.2 V6 likes it..
Q?; While at WM earlier today, I saw that M1 makes a 0W30. Which of the two (0W30 or 0W40) would be a better choice?
My understanding (read: best to check with the resident experts) is the narrower the spread between the lower and upper numbers, the less dependent on VII's the oil will be. And the less VII used in the oil, the better (in general) as (some) VII's can shear beyond repair, permanently dropping the oils original HTHS. It stands to reason that the 0w40 will incorporate more VII's into it's formula than the 0w30. So unless there's a compelling reason unique to your engine and driving habits pushing you towards an xw40, I'd run the 0w30 as opposed to the 0w40.
It would seem when it comes to oils bigger doesn't necessarily translate to better??? In the case of multi vis oils it seems picking a grade of oil that has the lowest spread suitable for your ambient temps is going to provide the best overall protection from a lubrication stand point.
Ok resident oil "gurus" ... feel free to gut my take and shatter what self worth I thought I had!...‚...‚...‚
Thanks for all of the replies.
I started this post because I'm thinking about going back to a 0W40 in my engine. When WM had a clearance on Castrol Euro 0W40 a couple of years ago, I bought some and used it in my 4.2 V6. That was the quietest that engine has ever run since buying it new (6 miles) in 07. But, next OCI, I'm going to try the Havoline full synthetic 6 qt. box to see how my 4.2 V6 likes it..
Q?; While at WM earlier today, I saw that M1 makes a 0W30. Which of the two (0W30 or 0W40) would be a better choice?
My understanding (read: best to check with the resident experts) is the narrower the spread between the lower and upper numbers, the less dependent on VII's the oil will be. And the less VII used in the oil, the better (in general) as (some) VII's can shear beyond repair, permanently dropping the oils original HTHS. It stands to reason that the 0w40 will incorporate more VII's into it's formula than the 0w30. So unless there's a compelling reason unique to your engine and driving habits pushing you towards an xw40, I'd run the 0w30 as opposed to the 0w40.
It would seem when it comes to oils bigger doesn't necessarily translate to better??? In the case of multi vis oils it seems picking a grade of oil that has the lowest spread suitable for your ambient temps is going to provide the best overall protection from a lubrication stand point.
Ok resident oil "gurus" ... feel free to gut my take and shatter what self worth I thought I had!...‚...‚...‚
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That's a slightly simplified view of the chemistry and mechanics at work with the engine's oil, but more importantly it is more applicable to the conventional oils than the synthetics. The VII effects on multi-grade synthetics isn't as pronounced and therefore not as applicable when used as a general rule to judge the efficiency of similar oils compared to each other on weight alone.
TL;DR - the engine won't know the diff between synthetic oils that differ in there listed weights by such small amounts.
TL;DR - the engine won't know the diff between synthetic oils that differ in there listed weights by such small amounts.
While in WM the other day, I was checking out the shelves for 0W40 oil. I noticed the M1 0W30 read on the front of the container;
"Warranty Protection For 5W30 & 10W30 Requirements"
That's good to know that it's okay to run in my engine.
When the 4.2 V6 1st came out in 1997 it spec'd 5W30 oil. In 2000 it went to 5W20 for CAFE reasons. The production of this engine, from 1997-2008, the clearances and tolerances never changed. That's why it's okay to run a 5W30 in this engine.
"Warranty Protection For 5W30 & 10W30 Requirements"
That's good to know that it's okay to run in my engine.
When the 4.2 V6 1st came out in 1997 it spec'd 5W30 oil. In 2000 it went to 5W20 for CAFE reasons. The production of this engine, from 1997-2008, the clearances and tolerances never changed. That's why it's okay to run a 5W30 in this engine.
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