I have always wanted a Mustang GT and am for the first time financially able to buy a late model used GT and still keep my 4x4 Ranger for bad weather. My question, is there any good way to tell if a car has been driven hard? I imgine some people who buy a Mustang v-8 probably run them hard and/or race and I'm not sure if a used performance car is a good idea.
Used Mustang GT question
- Thread starter mikemc
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Yep..put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and take off..if it stalls then the clutch is good..a sign that it wasen't abused..also check the rear wheel wells..if you find little chunks of fine rubber, the tires have been thru some burnouts..
Check the transmission fluid if it's an automatic. Brake stands are murder on transmission fluid and will burn it up quickly.
I'd steer clear of a car with any modifications.
i have a 98 mustang gt and of course i modded it. Once you have this car all you will do is try and make it faster. You will love it! If it is a 96-98 look for a plastic intake manifold that has been replaced with an aluminum one. They crack (which ford recalled in december) and costs a lot of money to fix.
Compression check, UOA if you have the time. Check for play in the u-joints and look at the brake pads. Depending on what exact year it is, there is factory rpm cut outs so as not to over rev. Check to see if the engine had been "re-chipped." If it has the 4.6 or 5.4l engine, check the sparkplugs and make sure they are snug. Might also check the plugs themselves. If the engine spit out a spark plug, may have a helicoil or a timesert insert in there.
Pretty much all fuel-injected Ford Mustangs have a factory rev limiter.
The "chip" plugs into a port on the side of the PCM which usually has a tamper sticker over it.
The "chip" plugs into a port on the side of the PCM which usually has a tamper sticker over it.
Mikemc,
These cars can handle unlimited amounts of full throttle acceleration from a roll with no worries but drag race starts can cost $$$.
In addition to all above comments:
- get under the car and examine where the drivers seat rear bolts come through. If there is any cracking around the bolt holes - look at another car.
- If owner has added subframe connecters, make sure they are welded it, not bolted.
- listen for rear end and transmission whine at highway speeds (may be tough if aftermarket muffler). Be especially watchful (listenful?) if the car has performance diff gears and a stock driveshaft. The OEM driveshafts have a wide tolerence for balance (which is fine with 2.73 or 3.08 gears) BUT they can really vibrate when connected to 3.55 or higher ratios... eventually requiring trans rebuild. Offending noises are most noticable at cruise in 5th gear with light throttle changes.
- if the car has aftermarket rear discs, evaluate with a hard stop. I have seen some cars actually hop under hard braking and this can a handful to sort out.
- Negotiate price with the likelyhood that you will have to replace both rear axle shafts. There are no bearings on the shafts - they are a wear item so plan on replacing every 60,000 miles or so if car is driven fairly hard.
- if aftermarket cam, get the car smogged before you buy.
I'm not trying to scare you off, these cars are stout and plenty of good ones. Just be choosy and you'll love this car!
These cars can handle unlimited amounts of full throttle acceleration from a roll with no worries but drag race starts can cost $$$.
In addition to all above comments:
- get under the car and examine where the drivers seat rear bolts come through. If there is any cracking around the bolt holes - look at another car.
- If owner has added subframe connecters, make sure they are welded it, not bolted.
- listen for rear end and transmission whine at highway speeds (may be tough if aftermarket muffler). Be especially watchful (listenful?) if the car has performance diff gears and a stock driveshaft. The OEM driveshafts have a wide tolerence for balance (which is fine with 2.73 or 3.08 gears) BUT they can really vibrate when connected to 3.55 or higher ratios... eventually requiring trans rebuild. Offending noises are most noticable at cruise in 5th gear with light throttle changes.
- if the car has aftermarket rear discs, evaluate with a hard stop. I have seen some cars actually hop under hard braking and this can a handful to sort out.
- Negotiate price with the likelyhood that you will have to replace both rear axle shafts. There are no bearings on the shafts - they are a wear item so plan on replacing every 60,000 miles or so if car is driven fairly hard.
- if aftermarket cam, get the car smogged before you buy.
I'm not trying to scare you off, these cars are stout and plenty of good ones. Just be choosy and you'll love this car!
My understanding about the axle shafts is that they do have a bearing, the mating surface however is a machined spot on the axle shaft and if the bearing wears out it can chew up that machined spot. The lube for the bearing is the gear oil from the differential.
They usually give some audible warning that they're about to fail, and if they do, there's a replacement bearing available which is slighly offset so it uses a different section of the machined area.
170K on my 88 GT and the axle shafts are at least 60K old, if not original.
They usually give some audible warning that they're about to fail, and if they do, there's a replacement bearing available which is slighly offset so it uses a different section of the machined area.
170K on my 88 GT and the axle shafts are at least 60K old, if not original.
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