Upper ball joint - burst rubber boot

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I had a local shop replace my old worn ball joint last year and they asked if I wanted greasable ones or sealed units. I said I want the greasable ones. I added some grease and put a bit too much pressure on them so it burst like a balloon. This is my 96 Grand Marquis with ~145,000 miles on it now. Should I just add a shot of grease occasionally or should I have a new one installed which also requires an alignment?
 
I'm sure the responses will from maintaining 100% safety (replacement) to doing 1-2 greasings per year. I'd be tempted to grease annually while installing some sort of protective homemade boot over it...like a split rubber hose. Being in Indiana you do have the higher risk of more winter sand and debris getting in there. It wouldn't be as much as a concern down south.
 
If the boot tore, dirt is going to get in and wear it prematurely. I'd just grease it regularly and replace it once it has play.
 
You should be able to get just the boot from the Help! section of autozone. If you pop the shank out of your spindle you shouldn't need an alignment just for that, so long as the upper control arm interface doesn't get moved.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
If the boot tore, dirt is going to get in and wear it prematurely. I'd just grease it regularly and replace it once it has play.


+this
 
Maybe you should have used lubed for life. They are better sealed, last longer and less trouble than old school greasables.
Unless its an off road, heavy truck i wont use a greasable joint of any sort inc U joints, they are a PITA who's time has come and thankfully gone.

The Dorman "Help" boots are garbage, if its a Moog joint they will send you a couple of new ones if you contact them, other companies your out of luck for a factory replacement.
You can usually find something from this company though...

http://energysuspension.com/products/Tie-Rod-Ball-Joint-Boots.html
 
I've had good luck with replacement Energy Suspension boots. I have them on both ball joints and rod ends on the El Camino. They come in red or black. The polyurethane isn't affected by most chemicals and UV and ozone don't break them down over time. Summit Racing and Jegs are good sources, and some parts stores carry them as well.

One caution: the generic ES boots do not have a little opening that should face inboard on the big end, that some stock boots have. That means excess grease can come out any direction and potentially fling off onto the brake. Be very sparing when adding new grease, and try to wipe off any excess. I try to look for the boots to just swell, then stop and look for excess. I also grease the chassis only once a year, when I change the oil, and even that's just so I remember it.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Maybe you should have used lubed for life. They are better sealed, last longer and less trouble than old school greasables.
Unless its an off road, heavy truck i wont use a greasable joint of any sort inc U joints, they are a PITA who's time has come and thankfully gone.


+1. The grease-able "problem solver" joints I've used wore out a lot quicker than the OEM non-greaseable ones.
 
I scrapped an '82 528e. The body was badly rotted from 150K of Cape Cod salt. The front suspension was in great shape. But the boots were dry rotted or borrowed. I also drilled a hole and added zerks. When the just replaced Duralast rear U joint let go. I'm pretty sure I screwed up its install. My 2nd try was with a grease able Spicer. The stretch to get into the Rat's cab is a PITA for me, but lends itself to throwing down a piece of rug under it and lying down and checking stuff. I had it 2 feet in the air for 4 months while I base lined it.
 
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