Update: Failed Toyota Highlander Oil & Filter Change Effort

[Imp4]

We've all heard about, read about, or experienced the incident in which someone had to get their standard spin on filter off with a screwdriver through the side or a chisel to get the base plate off.

And in those threads they talk about how the cartridge style is so much better.

Fact is, it's the installation technique that does you wrong, no matter what the design.

Chalk it up to a learning experience and move on.

 

[CrackyWainwright]

Here's one fellow on YouTube who had to use an impact wrench set to 300 foot pounds of torque to loosen this filter housing. Nothing short of that would move the housing. Mine was every bit that bad, but when it was finally off the filter itself didn't look too bad and the housing had the o-ring in exactly the right place.

Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wm-VMIkTw6k

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted by CrackyWainwright
Originally Posted by Nukeman7
Did you use the special residual oil drain nipple tool to relieve the suction pressure before attempting to unscrew the plastic housing? Here is a video tutorial that shows how it should be done.

Highlander Oil Change Video


I did use the drain nipple first. It was hard to insert and even harder to take out. No kidding, I got oil splattered EVERYWHERE taking the nipple out before trying to loosen the larger housing. And mine is metal/aluminum rather the older plastic design.

I have an after market nipple that came with an aftermarket filter that screws into the hole vs clipping in, so much easier to get the oil out as the oil starts to drain slowly once you reach a certain point.
Cannot remember the name of the filter.

 

[ekpolk]

Originally Posted by Imp4
. . .
And in those threads they talk about how the cartridge style is so much better.

Fact is, it's the installation technique that does you wrong, no matter what the design.
. . .

It speaks volumes, however, that Toyota is changing its engines back to spin-on filter designs. Not just new engines, mind you, but in-production existing engines. Consider the cost in changed tooling, down-time for changes and so on, and it's pretty clear that, for whatever reason, Toyota has decided that spin-ons are a better option. Yes, I whole-heartedly agree.

 

[dbias]

Wow that is insane that it could be that tight. Could it have been a combination of being over tightened and the O ring not being lubed? The A4 is the only car with a cartridge filter and when i changed the oil at 20k, the dealer did the first one it was just a hair over hand tight. In fact there is a bright green marker stripe from the factory that lines up when the plastic cap is tightened right and if the O ring is properly lubed i can literally, with a good grip remove it by hand now and i just tighten it to align the green marks by hand.

 

[dave1251]

Thank you for the update my last Silverado was at the dealership thus I know to have my filter wrench ready. I do not know when it became in vogue to torque wrench tighten to 100ft lbs of torque oil filters but everyone who does it deserves to be slapped every time.

 

[PWMDMD]

Originally Posted by ekpolk
Originally Posted by Imp4
. . .
And in those threads they talk about how the cartridge style is so much better.

Fact is, it's the installation technique that does you wrong, no matter what the design.
. . .

It speaks volumes, however, that Toyota is changing its engines back to spin-on filter designs. Not just new engines, mind you, but in-production existing engines. Consider the cost in changed tooling, down-time for changes and so on, and it's pretty clear that, for whatever reason, Toyota has decided that spin-ons are a better option. Yes, I whole-heartedly agree.


I don't think it all that much retooling or down time. Both types of filter are probably spun on by hand and maybe torqued by a single piece of equipment at the factory. Other than that it's changing the casting.

 

[ekpolk]

Originally Posted by PWMDMD
. . .
I don't think it all that much retooling or down time. Both types of filter are probably spun on by hand and maybe torqued by a single piece of equipment at the factory. Other than that it's changing the casting.

Of course, it's not as if they're respacing the cylinder bores. My point is that they're doing it at all. It would have been very easy for Toyota to simply sit back and keep making these engines the same way until the designs were retired. But they're actually going back to spin-ons, and incurring the cost of doing so, whatever it is. Preparing for the first OC on the Prius, I went to the local dealer asking for two filters. When I felt the boxes, they were heavy, as in, made of metal. I looked and sure enough, spin on. Smugly sure I should be expecting cartridges (like our Avalon has and earlier 2ZR engines have), I challenged the parts guy. He politely "set me straight," and sure enough, he was correct. Incidentally, I could tell he'd had this conversation with an unbelieving DIY guy or two before.

The real point, however, is that Toyota is not making this change "willy nilly." Obviously, a lot of people out "in the field" have been complaining -- enough that they decided to make the change. I think it's a good change and I'm very happy they did/are doing it.

 

[Gokhan]

Spin-on filters should always be tightened by hand and never with a wrench unless you want to have a nightmare situation when it's time to remove them.

I see that the newest version of the Prius uses the tiny Toyota 90915-YZZF2. Perhaps, you can upgrade to the oversized Fram Ultra XG3600 like I did in my Corolla. Remember to put 10 oz of extra oil if you do -- that's the volume difference between the two oil filters.

So, why did they change to spin-on? Too much frustration at the dealers with the oil-filter cartridge housing not coming off?

 

[HemiBenny]

The cartridge filters on top of the pentastar V6's and GM engines are fine, but the Toyota cartridge filters on the bottom are just rediculous. I've changed them without difficulty, but seriously, it's just extra steps for nothing. It's over-engineered nonsense.

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by CrackyWainwright
I began this morning with better tools that I rounded up in for a second day of trying to loosen the Highlander V6 oil cartridge housing . . . all to no avail. Wouldn't budge no matter what I tried even with a better steel removal cap that didn't slip off or get damaged.

I ended up taking the car to a local shop to get their opinion. Only with two men and a *5-FOOT BREAKER BAR* would the housing loosen after several attempts. I think it's now reached a new level of insanity for a simple oil change. I had the new oil and filter already, so I let the mechanics finish the oil change and was HAPPY to pay them $34.00 for their effort!

I don't think the last technician intentionally tightened the the filter housing that tight. You'd have to go out of your way to do so. I think there's something about this design that creates suction or additional tightness if the driver goes the full 10,000 OCI that Toyota recommends. I don't know that I'll ever be able to change the oil on this vehicle.

There are adapters you can use to convert it to take a spin on. You

 

[ekpolk]

Originally Posted by Gokhan
. . .
I see that the newest version of the Prius uses the tiny Toyota 90915-YZZF2. Perhaps, you can upgrade to the oversized Fram Ultra XG3600 like I did in my Corolla. . .
The F2 version is small, but not extremely so. Believe it or not, it's substantially larger than the so-called "thimble filter" that was specified on the 04 G35 I drove before I got the Prius in 06 (you betcha I upsized that one!). The easy route in this case is to use the 90915-YZZF1, which is simply a "taller" version of the F2. The new Prius has air flow panels on the bottom. Next change, I plan to have both filters available, in case the F1 won't clear the panel. It should, just being safe.

Originally Posted by Gokhan
So, why did they change to spin-on? Too much frustration at the dealers with the oil-filter cartridge housing not coming off?
I'm sure they were taking it from all directions re these cartridges. As the recent poster noted, cartridges can be OK if located sensibly, but Toyota's were almost diabolical in location and design. Consider: you had to get the O-ring in just the right groove AND lube it properly, or you'd risk it getting pulled out and cut during tightening. I've read a couple horror stories about the result of that. Then there's that "clever" predrain opening -- which usually made as much mess as it was designed to prevent. Worse, it was just another opening -- and potential source of failure -- in a system you don't ever want leaking. A good spin on has a pre-positioned O-ring and you can tell at once by feel that it is installed correctly. And if you've got any sense and dexterity (and maybe one cheap plastic bag), you can remove the old one spilling barely a drop.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted by ekpolk
Originally Posted by Gokhan
. . .I see that the newest version of the Prius uses the tiny Toyota 90915-YZZF2. Perhaps, you can upgrade to the oversized Fram Ultra XG3600 like I did in my Corolla. . .
The F2 version is small, but not extremely so. Believe it or not, it's substantially larger than the so-called "thimble filter" that was specified on the 04 G35 I drove before I got the Prius in 06 (you betcha I upsized that one!). The easy route in this case is to use the 90915-YZZF1, which is simply a "taller" version of the F2. The new Prius has air flow panels on the bottom. Next change, I plan to have both filters available, in case the F1 won't clear the panel. It should, just being safe.

If Fram Ultra XG3600 is too tall, Fram Ultra XG3614 will probably fit. The former is 10 oz and the latter is 4 oz larger in overall volume than the Toyota 90915-YZZF2. They have much better efficiency than the Toyota OEM oil filters and likely have better capacity as well.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted by ekpolk
...Then there's that "clever" predrain opening -- which usually made as much mess as it was designed to prevent. Worse, it was just another opening -- and potential source of failure -- in a system you don't ever want leaking.
I don't understand why they have that "predrain" on some cartridge models---or how it's supposed to work. The smaller cartridge of Prius and Corolla doesn't have that extra complication, and doesn't seem to need it. It's no more messy or difficult to change than a spin-on in the same inconvenient location would be.

 

[Sayjac]

Quote
….It speaks volumes, however, that Toyota is changing its engines back to spin-on filter designs. Not just new engines, mind you, but in-production existing engines. Consider the cost in changed tooling, down-time for changes and so on.
Likely true. However once accomplished the vehicle production cost per unit of using a canister/spin on type filter is less than for cartridge type with filter housing. So in the end it will cost Toyota less to use the spin on type. Of course, none of that helps the OP with current awkward Toyota cartridge design.

 

[waltb]

I have a 2011 Toyota with the aluminum filter housing. I put oil on the o-ring and threads. I hand tighten the housing when reinstalling (I do not crank it on). And sometime I find during the next oil change that the housing is so tight that I have to take a punch to it to get it to move at all. The housing has never been easy to get off. And I definitely oil the o-ring. Not sure how this design can tighten up so much. I for one would be glad if Toyota went back to a spin-on filter.

wb

 

[Eddie]

I think it tightens because you replace the cover when cold and remove it when hot or warm. The casing shrinks faster than the cover or visa versa. Ed

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted by waltb
I have a 2011 Toyota with the aluminum filter housing. I put oil on the o-ring and threads. I hand tighten the housing when reinstalling ... And sometime I find during the next oil change that the housing is so tight that I have to take a punch to it ...
Strange! Why does my Prius cartridge cap (plastic, smaller, same as Corolla) never do that? Differential thermal expansion shouldn't be a factor with an aluminum cap on an aluminum(?) housing.

 

[CrackyWainwright]

Originally Posted by waltb
I have a 2011 Toyota with the aluminum filter housing. ... And sometime I find during the next oil change that the housing is so tight that I have to take a punch to it to get it to move at all. The housing has never been easy to get off. And I definitely oil the o-ring.


Amen, my brother!

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted by waltb
I have a 2011 Toyota with the aluminum filter housing. I put oil on the o-ring and threads. I hand tighten the housing when reinstalling (I do not crank it on). And sometime I find during the next oil change that the housing is so tight that I have to take a punch to it to get it to move at all. The housing has never been easy to get off. And I definitely oil the o-ring. Not sure how this design can tighten up so much. I for one would be glad if Toyota went back to a spin-on filter.

wb

Try torquing the housing to the specified 18 ft-lbs. The housing will come off like butter next time.