Types, Manfactures, Venders, ATV Batteries

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have learned a little bit since yesterday:

Flooded: This is the traditional engine start and traction style battery. The liquid electrolyte is free to move in the cell compartment. The user has access to the individual cells and can add distilled water as the battery dries out. Popular uses are engine starting and deep cycle designs.
Typical absorption voltage range 14.2 to 14.5 volts, typical float voltage range 13.2 to 13.5 volts.

Sealed: This term can refer to a number of different constructions, including only a slight modification to the flooded style. In that case, even though the user does not have access to the cell compartments, the internal structure is still basically the same as a flooded battery. The only difference is that the manufacturer has ensured that a sufficient amount of acid is the battery to sustain the chemical reaction under normal use throughout the battery warranty period. Other types of lead acid batteries are also sealed, as explained below. Very popular uses are engine start and limited starting/deep cycle applications.
Typical absorption voltage range 14.2 to 14.5 volts, typical float voltage range 13.2 to 13.5 volts.


VRLA: This stands for Valve Regulated Lead Acid battery. This is also a sealed battery. The valve regulating mechanism allows for a safe escape of hydrogen and oxygen gasses during charging.
Typical absorption voltage range 14.2 to 14.5 volts, typical float voltage range 13.2 to 13.5 volts.


AGM: The Absorbed Glass Matt construction allows the electrolyte to be suspended in close proximity with the plate s active material. In theory, this enhances both the discharge and recharge efficiency. Actually, the AGM batteries are a variant of Sealed VRLA batteries. Popular usage high performance engine starting, power sports, deep cycle, solar and storage battery.
Typical absorption voltage range 14.4 to 15.0 volts, typical float voltage range 13.2 to 13.8 volts.


GEL: The gel cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a GEL cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. The recharge voltages on this type of cell are lower than the other styles of lead acid battery. This is probably the most sensitive cell in terms of adverse reactions to over-voltage charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications. If the incorrect battery charger is used on a Gel Cell battery poor performance and premature failure is certain.
Typical absorption voltage range 14.0 to 14.2 volts, typical float voltage range 13.5 to 13.8 volts.

Note about Gel Batteries: It is very common for individuals to use the term GEL Cell when referring to sealed, maintenance free batteries, much like one would use Kleenex when referring to facial tissue or "Xerox machine" when referring to a copy machine. Be very careful when specifying a charger. More often than not, what someone thinks to be a Gel Cell is really a sealed, maintenance free, GRT, probably AGM style battery.
 
Not sure I agree on the battery thing. WalMart has cheap batteries that last as long (in SeaDoo racing) as any of the ultra expensive ones do. Nothing is harder on a battery than PWC racing as far as I am concerned. They really take a pounding. And they last about 1 year.

The WalMart batteries last 3-4 years in ATV use. Yuasa makes great batteries, but I am not certain they are worth 3 times the price. The warranty is the same in either case. Nearly nothing.

Chris
 
Walmart are made by Exide, and have decent specs. The lead plate batteries are inexpensive, but the AGM seem to cost as much as any other. I have gotten 2 years out of the 30$ lead plate batteries. I moved up to two 79$ AGM maintenance free this winter. I picked up 40 CCA. We will see how they last.
 
Have a walmart in my KLR, and the case and every other detail on it was the same as the yuasa that came out. 5yrs and it still cranks hard (lives on a maintainer though). I'd buy another one.
 
You can't go wrong with a Yuasa...very good battery. I have seen customers replace their $20 Champion battery every year while the Yuasa batteries last 4-5 years (but cost 4 times the price...one customer is going on 7 years with his Yuasa). I have also seen one customer who is replacing a Yuasa every year in an older goldwing...I suspect there is something else going on there.

Where are you buying the Yuasa...? A lot of shops will juice the battery and charge it when you buy it...this way you are ensured a fresh battery. The shop I wrenched at would install it for free also...sometimes not such a trivial job.

My point is that sometimes buying the more expensive battery can work out to be a better option in the long run. Plus it is nice to see small town shops supported rather than wal-mart. Who do you go to when you have a service question about your machine?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: another Todd
I use AGM. They last longer than anything else I've used. Deka or Odysee (spelling?) brands.


They are also about 2x the price of a basic lead acid battery.
 
Hi .I see this thread is old now,but i agree with another Todd to an extent. My yuassa wasn't keeping up to demands on my can am, so i got an odyssey 680 and never had to think about it again(much better performance). I was boosting/charging frequently before that. Also heard the dekas are almost as good in comparison.BUT the atv in question is a yamaha, of which i've owned a few(wolv,kodiak,grizz660), and the factory yuassas did a good job in them without any problems at all
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom