Turning Rotors

[Donald]

I bought these rotors awhile ago, but now with 48K on them brake pulsation is coming back (as has been a constant problem since I bought the Jeep.) (And the Jeep has been upgraded to Akebono calipers).

So can these rotors (slotted?) be turned?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J88BE6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These rotors seemed to have lasted the longest of any other rotor I have tried with respect to pulsation.

 

[Eddie]

If they only need a few thousands cleanup, then yes. Ed

 

[dlundblad]

I am sure they are, but Ill ask anyways.. Are you sure your caliper pins are fully greased?

 

[Chris142]

Yes I can turn drilled and slotted rotors. Just takes longer

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I am sure they are, but Ill ask anyways.. Are you sure your caliper pins are fully greased?
Some pulsation may be attributed to pad material sticking to the rotors. No experience with slotted rotors, but is stuff filling the slots? Can you wire wheel the rotors in place?

 

[WANG]

I would be inclined to suspect some pad material roasted on, too.

 

[SHOZ]

What pads are you using?

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
What pads are you using?


I believe these were the pads that Jeep supplied with the Akebono caliper upgrade.

I good indy shop did these brakes, so I can assume everything was done properly.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Seems like a waste of time. Just buy new ones.

 

[asand1]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
What pads are you using?
A good indy shop did these brakes, so I can assume everything was done properly.


Including the brake bedding (done by you)?

 

[wrcsixeight]

I often drive a neighbor's 2013 tacoma 4x4. It is mostly driven by a women, whose driving style is nerve rattling. Late hard braking, like many women drivers. There is a lot of traffic lights at the bottom of fairly steep hills in this area, and they are rarely green when approached.

Every time I drive the thing the brakes pulsate, and in the 10 miles or so I drive it the pulsing mostly disappears as I tend to brake earlier and only use enough pressure on the pedal to keep stopped and no more.

Can't be entirely heat related as I often drive it right after her while it is still hot.

My point is that it is not always the quality of the pad or the rotor, but the driving habits/style. Hot pads and rotors clamped tightly when stopped are likely the cause of many, certainly not all, pulsing reports.

My newly installed Hawk HPS pads came with instruction to sand used but still healthy rotors with 130 grit sandpaper to remove deposits from the old pads, and also describes their recommended bedding procedure.

I did as instructed, and these Pads give me a confidence in my stopping ability I've never had before.

You can try sanding any possible uneven pad deposits off the rotor. They were quite obvious( not any unevenness) when I sanded my rotors as instructed. I went a step further to wetsanding with 220 grit and soapy water,and spent a good 20 minutes total on each rotor. Mine were not pulsing before pad replacement, and are not now either.

 

[jtfmdyk]

Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
I often drive a neighbor's 2013 tacoma 4x4. It is mostly driven by a women, whose driving style is nerve rattling. Late hard braking, like many women drivers.


Yes, because many men never drive in a nerve rattling manner. Idiotic and sexist thing to say, you could have made your "point" without going there. Nice.

 

[SHOZ]

Late hard braking is better for the rotors than the slow drag.

 

[Eddie]

I also sand rotors when installing new pads. ~200 grit disk on an electric drill does the job. Ed

 

[Donald]

I feel I drive and brake in a normal not aggressive manner.

 

[SHOZ]

It's been my experience that cars with an automatic and lightly using the brakes is what will build up deposits on the rotors.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
It's been my experience that cars with an automatic and lightly using the brakes is what will build up deposits on the rotors.


Normal driving removes all pad material from the rotor face if pad compound is hard enough. Most rotors you see on the street are going to be shiny clean.

Between the gazillions of pad materials and the variations in brake capacity and driving styles it can be hard to pin down the exact issue involved.

You may find the deposition of pad material into the face of the rotor to be caused almost solely by sitting with the pads clamped down hard on a hot rotor. How you got it hot won't really matter, but it is commonly from late brakers coming to a hard stop and then sitting there with the pedal down hard...

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8

You may find the deposition of pad material into the face of the rotor to be caused almost solely by sitting with the pads clamped down hard on a hot rotor. How you got it hot won't really matter, but it is commonly from late brakers coming to a hard stop and then sitting there with the pedal down hard...


I am not a late braker, conservative driver and braker.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: Donald


I am not a late braker, conservative driver and braker.


Exactly, that's the problem.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Late hard braking is better for the rotors than the slow drag.


Not quite. Hard braking is what causes the pads to heat up the most. If you late brake and get the pads really hot, then sit on the brakes at a stop, that is when the hot pad material gets deposited on the rotors. If you have to stop hard, best to not have the brakes pressed during that stop.