Trying to find the final word on OCI w/amsoil

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I've got an 01 Tacoma 2.7 (4 cyl) 100K Miles, 5 speed.
I'm currently using dino 5-20 castrol with a purolator filter and 4000 mile OCI. The sump is 5.8 qts and the oil comes out golden at 4000 miles. I've had this truck since 40K Miles and have babied it (drive it hard, but maintain it) I plan to keep it for a long long time. I've already put amsoil severe gear 75-90 in the front and rear diff. Redline mt-90 in the transmission and transfer case, and I'm using a quality grease throughout the chassis, driveshafts, etc.. I'm looking at a bypass filter system for it, but I'm not interested in becoming a preferred customer and I just want to know how much it will cost. I'm looking at the BMK13 with the largest bypass and full flow filter they sell (space isnt an issue) Also want 8 qts (capacity after bypass) Amsoil ASM 0w-20. I've tried pablo here on the boards but all of his links do not work.

Anyways with bypass, big filters, and 8 qts of ASM what am I looking at for an OCI Amsoil says 35K miles (I'm not going that far personally. I drive it about 22K miles a year.)

What about without the bypass, just a standard size wix filter and ASM 0w-20 10000 miles sound okay, or 5000 ? I really dont want to push it or start doing UOA's Looking for a set time and I've been searching this site ALOT and just get conflicting answers everywhere I look.
 
For the first OCIs, use Amsoil XL 5w-20 for one 7,500 interval. This will be used to give a basis for how oil consumption may appear over an extended drain (yes I'm aware it is not linear), also the XL may clean up things a little bit.

Personally, I would suggest the Amsoil EAO and change the oil & filter at 12,000 miles, and perform one UOA. If it shows all is well, then continue doing 12,000 mile OCIs, and use UOAs only to extend the intervals.

The conflicting answer you may get is whether it is a good idea to blindly go into 20,000+ miles between oil changes, which is why I state to get a UOA done at the end of your first OCI to verify 12,000 miles is not too much.
 
Originally Posted By: CruzNlife1
I'm looking at a bypass filter system for it, but I'm not interested in becoming a preferred customer and I just want to know how much it will cost. I'm looking at the BMK13 with the largest bypass and full flow filter they sell (space isnt an issue) Also want 8 qts (capacity after bypass) Amsoil ASM 0w-20. I've tried pablo here on the boards but all of his links do not work.

Anyways with bypass, big filters, and 8 qts of ASM what am I looking at for an OCI Amsoil says 35K miles (I'm not going that far personally. I drive it about 22K miles a year.)

What about without the bypass, just a standard size wix filter and ASM 0w-20 10000 miles sound okay, or 5000 ? I really dont want to push it or start doing UOA's Looking for a set time and I've been searching this site ALOT and just get conflicting answers everywhere I look.


I'm not sure I would run 0W-20 ASM in that rig. Use SSO 0W-30, or HDD 5w30, or ASL 5w30, or ACD SAE 30.

Amsoil does NOT say 35,000 miles with ASM. Bad advice from whom?

Simple answer. 1 year with any of the suggested oils. Without a by-pass 11K or six months, easy.

Bypass prices are here: Bypass filters About $201 for the BMK-13. You'll more than save $50 by becoming a PC on the bypass system alone.

My links don't work? Which ones?
 
Pablo's Right! Whoops...the 0-30 is the 35Ker...not...in my opinion...but who knows, the OCI/UOA's are not in yet!

SERVICE LIFE
AMSOIL Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline-fueled vehicles as follows:

• Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

• Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

• Replace AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter at the time of oil change, up to 25,000 miles or one year service life, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).

• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.

*OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer

(1) Engines operating under modified conditions are excluded from extended drain recommendations. Examples include the use of performance computer chips; non-OEM approved exhaust, fuel or air induction systems; and the use of fuels other than those recommended for normal operation by the manufacturers.

(2) Mechanically sound engines are in good working condition and do not, for example, leak oil or consume excessive amounts, are not worn out, do not overheat, do not leak anti-freeze and have properly working emission control systems. AMSOIL recommends repairing malfunctioning engines prior to the installation of AMSOIL synthetic oils.

(3) Personal vehicles frequently traveling greater than 10 miles (16 km) at a time and not operating under severe service.

(4) Turbo or supercharged vehicles, commercial or fleet vehicles, excessive engine idling, first and subsequent use of AMSOIL in vehicles with over 100,000 miles, daily short trip driving less than 10 miles (16k), frequent towing, plowing, hauling or dusty condition
driving.

AMSOIL Ea Full-Flow Filters are designed for extended drain intervals. They stop smaller particles, flow more oil and last longer than regular filters. For best performance, use AMSOIL Ea Full-Flow Filters.

I personally would stay with the 6 month OCI on this one! The 0-20 is close to a 30wt for your info. But the 0-30 would be the better choice. Or the 30wt or 5-30 for a better price and equal/close to equal value on the quality.
 
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I would like to stay with a 0-20. Fuel consumption is my #1 priority. Doing research this is a tough little motor. Tacoma and other toyota guys are reporting 200-250K+ mileage with zero issues and average engine maintenance (cheap oil, long oci's) I figure I can get away with such a light oil if I keep it clean and use a good oil.... I'm planning on 6 month OCI's w/out bypass.

I'm going to try the wix and some 0-20 and see what happens.

My concern is, with it being a 4x4 I also have the optional LOW gears in the diffs (4.30's) I cruise over 3000 rpms all day.

This is my cruise conditions for over an hour each way to and from work, I run some high rpm's I'd like a thin oil. I rarely tow anything (maybe once a year) dont haul much and I'm pretty easy on the pedal. I've been running 0-20 dino for a long time now with zero issues, no consumption, and it stays very clean. I even ran to 5000 miles once on an interval and the oil was still amber when drained.

11-05-07_1933.jpg
 
CruzNlife1

You're complicating the conditions to the point that it's going to require a bit of qualification for "the final word". That is, your making it difficult to provide an impossible answer.

You aren't interested in UOA ..but are using an out of spec oil for your application.

I PERSONALLY wouldn't have a problem with doing this ..but recommending it to someone else takes into risky. I know what I'm doing ..even if I don't know what I'm doing (not knowing what's going to happen). It's very unlikely that, even if the results were not favorable, you would experience no shortening of use of your engine ...but again, your reluctant to use UOA ..so you won't have a clue how things really went

You want a bypass system ...great.

You don't want to become a PC. Buying a bypass setup under the PC program more than pays for the PC membership fee. If you do everything at once ...you're saving substantial bucks.

If you're not going to do UOA, I'd change your air filter (preferably an Eaa, if available) ..get an EaO filter. Get the SSO and install your bypass (or not).


Lasting the year/22k is the easy part, imo. It's your out of spec choice that would make me nervous as a dealer.
 
doing a uoa isnt that much of an issue. I plan to run one towards the end of the first run with amsoil. To see what it looks like at 6months (11K miles) I just read some of these posts and am not interested in having it constantly analyzed before I change it. I wasnt aware that becoming a PC would save me that much money. Now it may be worth the 10 bucks to save 50 on a bypass, filters, and some oil. I appreciate the advice guys, honestly I do. I'll probably sign up this evening.
 
Quote:
doing a uoa isnt that much of an issue. I plan to run one towards the end of the first run with amsoil. To see what it looks like at 6months (11K miles)


(visions of the guy who answers the bell at the Emerald City)

Waaail, that's a horse of a different color.
banana2.gif


Quote:
I wasnt aware that becoming a PC would save me that much money.


It can usually make up for the PC fee and the shipping with a case purchase. With enough items in the order you can get some decent savings with the first purchase.
 
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