TruFuel question

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It seems that everyone on here, for the most part, states to use 87 fuel for OPE. If that is the case and works well, then why does TruFuel come in the can with 93? Is it for them to justify the over-inflated cost of convenience?
 
2 stroke OPE can burn itself up on 87 octane, and any water captured by the E10 can't hold 2 stroke oil, also resulting in possible engine damage. I finally found a reasonably priced source of E0 premium, when my current stash of TruFuel is gone, I'll be refilling the cans with it (Casey's General Store).
 
That's for the people who want it to be exceptional in every regard, including attributes that aren't important to the application.
 
Well it's not going to hurt anything, and maybe there is some applications where a higher octane rating is recommended or required. They cover the field with one product rather than producing several that might get confused by some consumers. My string trimmer uses 89 octane so 87 would be inappropriate for that application.
 
Originally Posted by mk378
That's for the people who want it to be exceptional in every regard, including attributes that aren't important to the application.


Agree, how much can I overshoot the requirements to prove I do everything better than the "average guy"
 
My local Lawn and Garden owner says he uses premium in all OPE. I use TruFuel in chainsaw and trimmers. Before winter I put it in everything and everything starts right up the next spring. One year I used Stabil and the next spring mower wouldn't start. Needed a new carb.
 
Most 4 stroke engine mfg. recommend minimum 87 octane for these low compression engines. Most 2 stroke engine mfg. recommend minimum 89 octane. Most people believe marketing implying bigger is better in nearly all situations. 93 octane meets all of these requirements.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Well it's not going to hurt anything, and maybe there is some applications where a higher octane rating is recommended or required. They cover the field with one product rather than producing several that might get confused by some consumers. My string trimmer uses 89 octane so 87 would be inappropriate for that application.


Yeah it solves a myriad of problems, not necessarily all yours. Like when you buy a brake hardware or carb rebuild kit and there's stuff left over for apps that aren't yours. Still cheaper as far as shelf space vs having multiple SKUs.
 
It just makes sense to cover all the aspects of different manufactures requirements.

My 20 yr old Kawasaki string trimmer has been running just fine on 87 from the local Exxon. I just mix the Saber 2 stoke and go. Whatever is left in the tank in Dec when I put it up is still good when I crank it in March to start spring clean up.

I just can't see paying the extra for TruFuel but can see some doing it if they don't have much yard to take care of. I go through a few gallons a year.
 
My trimmer and blower have used TruFuel exclusively since new. They are 6 years old now and have had zero issues. Starts every spring by the second pull. Also, piston has no carbon on it at all.
 
Originally Posted by Rat407
It just makes sense to cover all the aspects of different manufactures requirements.

My 20 yr old Kawasaki string trimmer has been running just fine on 87 from the local Exxon. I just mix the Saber 2 stoke and go. Whatever is left in the tank in Dec when I put it up is still good when I crank it in March to start spring clean up.

I just can't see paying the extra for TruFuel but can see some doing it if they don't have much yard to take care of. I go through a few gallons a year.

That's kind of what I used to do with the Stihl chainsaws, mix E10 87 32:1, cut a few hours, drain the can and run the saws dry/out of gas-but I had an older 028 scar the piston & cylinder, my desire to risk killing another saw (like my old 045 that runs the 28" bar that would cost over $1K to replace) suddenly disappeared. TruFuel is expensive, but Casey's E0 91 octane was under $2/gallon last I saw, and a gallon is good for a while as little as I cut (firewood mostly).
 
Once the two stroke oil is added to gasoline the octane rating diminishes if tested using a variable compression style test rig. That is why you see a healthy aftermarket in 2 stroke racing oil to compensate for higher compression and hot/hotter/hottest cylinder head temps. in those style engines. It all used to be castor/synthetic castor back in the day.
 
I use TruFuel in both my chainsaws and my weedeater, I dunno how much difference it makes, but I use both quite a bit, and then they're put away in the winter, and in the case of the saws, it could possibly be 2 years between uses, and they start on about the third pull, so I'm happy. I have quite a bit of ground and lots of trees to take care of so I use a saw every year a lot, but not necessarily the same saw every year, so I've given the stabilizer effect of TruFuel a real test and it seems like it works as advertised. My thinking is yes, it's expensive, but I normally go through a couple gallons a year in just the saws and if it keeps them starting and running fine, then the extra bucks is worth it. I don't wan to have to cut a tree out of the driveway, or go down into the woods to clear some more land, and have to fight keeping my saw running. Maybe regular 2 cycle oil and gas would work, but it's not that big of a deal.
 
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