Trick to secure broken plastic coil-pack connectors…

Good solution.
I replaced the connectors on my 07 Highlander.
It was not too difficult to replace.
Youtube have a lot of video on it.
 
This is a huge pet peeve of mine on most engine bay connectors. If you're going to expose plastic to an environment like an engine bay, use quality plastic that can withstand it and connectors designed such that they can withstand repeated flex
 
This is a huge pet peeve of mine on most engine bay connectors. If you're going to expose plastic to an environment like an engine bay, use quality plastic that can withstand it and connectors designed such that they can withstand repeated flex

Bosch (or AMP) had it right when they designed a connector that uses a piece of metal wire as the latch.
 
This is exactly the reason I use a dental pick when servicing that style Denso coil pack. I NEVER put any pressure on the tab, I simply push in gently on the connector housing while prying up the tab from the bottom. It's not a fool-proof system, but it works.

Should I break one, I leave it alone. I have yet to have an issue relying on the "friction fit" of the connector to keep things humming along.
 
That won't work on some Toyota (Sumitomo) connectors.

Last time I did plugs on the LS, every connector housing tab broke off. I ended up having to unpin 32 wires.

20210918_184726 Coil Connectors_01b.jpg
 

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I have a couple missing tabs on two coil packs, wired connectors are fine. I cobbled it together with zip ties but the only other solution is new coil packs.
 
This is exactly the reason I use a dental pick when servicing that style Denso coil pack. I NEVER put any pressure on the tab, I simply push in gently on the connector housing while prying up the tab from the bottom. It's not a fool-proof system, but it works.

Should I break one, I leave it alone. I have yet to have an issue relying on the "friction fit" of the connector to keep things humming along.
Increasingly I find myself doing this. I was just into the doors of a GMT400 and on any connector where I had access I found myself "jimmying" it by going directly in with a small straight blade to lift the tab at the source rather than relying on the designed, intended release lever or mechanism.

Kinda like slipping in a credit card to open your front door every time rather than using the knob :D
 
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