Has anyone used a Trasko filter when doing an Auto-RX treatment? Once, when I took off a conventional filter after the Auto-RX and cut it up, the pleated paper was covered with sludge. It probably was still flowing some oil, but even if it couldn't, there is a bypass valve in it. If that were to happen to a Trasko, the screen could clog, and there is no bypass for the screen, so the engine would cease to get oil, unless the engine has a built in bypass, like some GM engines do.
Trasko filter when using Auto-RX
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If I thought my engine was very dirty I believe I would use a cheap filter for cleaning, and save the
Trasko for the normal OCI. I suspect with the Trasko
and some good oil you wont have to worry about the
engine getting so dirty in the future. I have
come to the conclusion that any bypass will help keep that from ever being a problem. I might also say when I pulled the pan on my 87 acura legend at 190k, that had used M1 it was completly clean. OCI were 7-10k and I never used any cleaning products.
Trasko for the normal OCI. I suspect with the Trasko
and some good oil you wont have to worry about the
engine getting so dirty in the future. I have
come to the conclusion that any bypass will help keep that from ever being a problem. I might also say when I pulled the pan on my 87 acura legend at 190k, that had used M1 it was completly clean. OCI were 7-10k and I never used any cleaning products.
willkie - I might also say when I pulled the pan on my 87 acura legend at 190k, that had used M1 it was completly clean. OCI were 7-10k and I never used any cleaning products.
What type of oil filter was used over the 190,000 miles (FF, FF+BP, BP only, and what brand)?
What type of oil filter was used over the 190,000 miles (FF, FF+BP, BP only, and what brand)?
I have a trasko I used after the cleaning and rinse from auto-rx. The trasko completely plugged after 500 miles and the truck was ticking/clacking like crazy. Put on a regular oil filter and the noises went away. Don't use it with auto-rx the screen was plugged with crap. The trasko was added after the 1500 mile rinse phase. It was the middle of winter and cold outside. Here are the pics:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?V6E313DFA
It was a 2000 blazer 4.3 4wd with 140,000 miles. On 2nd Auto-rx cleaning now.
http://makeashorterlink.com/?V6E313DFA
It was a 2000 blazer 4.3 4wd with 140,000 miles. On 2nd Auto-rx cleaning now.
While I was putting 240,000 miles on my Subaru using Mobil 1 15-50 a customer put over 500,000 miles on his Toyota Corolla using Pennzoil non synthetic. I gave the car to a friend and told him the engine shows no signs of wear but both head gaskets were leaking oil on the muffler. It is probably still running and leaking oil on the muffler.
The reason a filter clogs is caused by allowing the oil to get dirty and foul the engine,then adding something to break the crap loose. Continuously clean oil doesn't foul the engine. There is a lot of money being made flushing transmissions and engines that they wouldn't be making if the equipment had a filter that could remove the sludge before it attached to the engine parts. A little filter that can remove the slidge must be changed more often than a higher capacity filter. The size of the element determines how often it needs to be changed.
Ralph
The reason a filter clogs is caused by allowing the oil to get dirty and foul the engine,then adding something to break the crap loose. Continuously clean oil doesn't foul the engine. There is a lot of money being made flushing transmissions and engines that they wouldn't be making if the equipment had a filter that could remove the sludge before it attached to the engine parts. A little filter that can remove the slidge must be changed more often than a higher capacity filter. The size of the element determines how often it needs to be changed.
Ralph
Sorry, I thought I made that clear in my other posts. I have only run the Trasko for 6k miles on this Legend. My 87 had the old style Honda cannister, no spin-on filter at all. I have been
running the M1 since 1976, guess I have forgetten
what happens with dino oil. On the other hand I did
have leaky gaskets for 11 out of 15 years, last 5
years I ran 15-50 M1. I do think with the change
in quality in the good dino I have even thought
about combining the bypass and dino. The old dino oils did not come close to the syn that I was using.
But the results I am seeing with M1 and the Trasko, 15 mo in the sump and the lab said leave it in. I want to try the new M1 EP and I have a Pella pump to change it. Did anyone tell Trasko
about the problem with the Auto-rx?
running the M1 since 1976, guess I have forgetten
what happens with dino oil. On the other hand I did
have leaky gaskets for 11 out of 15 years, last 5
years I ran 15-50 M1. I do think with the change
in quality in the good dino I have even thought
about combining the bypass and dino. The old dino oils did not come close to the syn that I was using.
But the results I am seeing with M1 and the Trasko, 15 mo in the sump and the lab said leave it in. I want to try the new M1 EP and I have a Pella pump to change it. Did anyone tell Trasko
about the problem with the Auto-rx?
Regarding Ralph's comments: I wish I could afford to start with new vehicles and keep everything clean. When you can't afford to buy a new vehicle, you make the best of the used vehicle that you get. This will include having to deal with uncertainty about how the vehicle was driven and maintained. Almost certainly, the vehicle did not have a bypass filter. Auto-RX will clean up a dirty engine much better and faster than clean oil alone even if you install a bypass filter when you buy the used vehicle. After the Auto-RX, a goal is to keep it clean, which is what the bypass filter can do.
Regarding Iceberg's comments, if the Trasko plugged even though it was installed after the rinse phase, it appears that a Trasko and Auto-RX might be a dangerous mix. Maybe you could mount the Trasko using a sandwich adapter and a remote filter mount. Then if it plugs, the sandwich adapter would bypass it.
Regarding Iceberg's comments, if the Trasko plugged even though it was installed after the rinse phase, it appears that a Trasko and Auto-RX might be a dangerous mix. Maybe you could mount the Trasko using a sandwich adapter and a remote filter mount. Then if it plugs, the sandwich adapter would bypass it.
I bought a new Rambler American in 1963, a new 71 Datsun pickup in 1971 and a new Subaru in 1984. Normally I buy cars with over 100,000 miles on them.
I don't normally drain oil. I depend on TP filters to keep the oil clean and the clean oil to clean the engine. I'm not too much into mechanics in a can. I have always figured the best thing to flush an engine or transmission is clean oil. It has worked well for me. Modern engines don't normally have a sludge problem unless they are badly neglected.
Back in the 60s when I bought a used car I would remove the valve covers and wash the sludge down into the oil pan. Then I would remove the oil pan and clean it. The clean oil will clean wherever it splashes and keep more sludge from forming where it can't splash.
On a modern engine I install a TP filter and change it often enough to keep the oil clean and get enough new oil added to keep the additive package up. If I changed the oil I could go farther between filter changes. I gather from these posts that with the little filter elements you can go farther between filter changes because you are happy with allowing the oil to get dirty and need changing. My Camry has no full flow filter. I spend about one minute every 4,000 miles or so changing the TP and adding a quart of new oil.
Ralph
I don't normally drain oil. I depend on TP filters to keep the oil clean and the clean oil to clean the engine. I'm not too much into mechanics in a can. I have always figured the best thing to flush an engine or transmission is clean oil. It has worked well for me. Modern engines don't normally have a sludge problem unless they are badly neglected.
Back in the 60s when I bought a used car I would remove the valve covers and wash the sludge down into the oil pan. Then I would remove the oil pan and clean it. The clean oil will clean wherever it splashes and keep more sludge from forming where it can't splash.
On a modern engine I install a TP filter and change it often enough to keep the oil clean and get enough new oil added to keep the additive package up. If I changed the oil I could go farther between filter changes. I gather from these posts that with the little filter elements you can go farther between filter changes because you are happy with allowing the oil to get dirty and need changing. My Camry has no full flow filter. I spend about one minute every 4,000 miles or so changing the TP and adding a quart of new oil.
Ralph
You got me thinking on that one. No doub the best thing you can do before adding a bypass filter is treat the engine with Auto-RX first. ARX has proven itself in it's ability to clean the rings and remove sludge. Now the by-pass can do it's job of maintaining clean.quote:
Originally posted by RalphPWood:
Continuously clean oil doesn't foul the engine. There is a lot of money being made flushing transmissions and engines that they wouldn't be making if the equipment had a filter that could remove the sludge before it attached to the engine parts. Ralph
Hot oil does a good job in cleaning an engine, but there are many dow sides to it.
- You have to drive long distances with a warm engine.
- You have to drive many miles as the cleaning process is slow.
- Hot oil does not clean all the carbon out of the ring grooves.
- Cold starts are still adding carbon to the rings.
We have seen engines go a million miles with a bypass, which supports the theory that clean oil keeps an engine clean and the rings free from carbon buildup, but to accomplish that many miles there are some long engine run commutes involved. We have not seen any evidence to show that a bypass/clean oil will maintain a clean engine, especially the rings, in a short trip, typical use vehicle.
Blowby has to pass the rings to enter the oil before it can be removed by the bypass filter. You can't keep carbon and soot out of the rings simply by having clean oil all the time.
As for an engine that has been run withoug a bypass, and already has carbon and soot buildup on the rings, hot oil will cean out the soot, but will it disolve carbon?
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