Thank you for the correction !I havn't kept up to date with the latest Toyota CVT's but I don't think using Toyota WS in a CVT is smart... but correct me if I am wrong.
Genuine Toyota eCVT Fluid it is !
Thank you for the correction !I havn't kept up to date with the latest Toyota CVT's but I don't think using Toyota WS in a CVT is smart... but correct me if I am wrong.
This is only accurate if you change the transmission fluid on a 300k beater that has never had a service in it's life. I would argue that most people on this board change their ATF frequently, as do I, and have never had these problems. The automatic transmission in my 2002 Xterra shifts like the day it was purchased 20 years ago. Never add that snakeoil **** to your ATF.Over the long term, when there clutch is worn enough, it will start shuddering on a "clean" fluid if you overdo the ATF as suggested above. Then you have to start adding stuff like Lubegard additives as a band-aid to replacing the torque converter, so lubegard makes some money on this.
Care Care Nut is substantiated by many, many comments from followers, and by his utter substance.Who is Legendary Care Care Nut? I'm curious, as you seem to put a lot of weight in his/her opinion, but I've never heard the "name" before.
Apologies to all. I do not want to dispense inaccurate information.Except you missed the caveats. real CVT's use Toyota Genuine CVTF FE
Hybrid transmissions "eCVT" uses WS
Utter.Care Care Nut is substantiated by many, many comments from followers, and by his utter substance.
I personally still follow all procedures, however if there is no transmission leaks then I personally do not see a problem putting the same amount back in of which came out.I owned a 2015 Corolla with nearly the same CVT for about a year. I bought it with 103k and sold it around 110k. The transmission was never serviced at all best I could tell and performed just fine before and after. My OCD still had me do a basic drain/fill with about 4-5 quarts of Aisin CVT which is cheap and readily available at Rockauto. However, I didnt bother with the procedure of using a paperclip or whatever to get it to a certain temperature and see how much it pees out of the "overfill" hole. I simply replaced what drained. My brain still cant wrap my head around bothering with this temperature procedure.
here is the correct fluid https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/aisin,ATFTFE,transmission+fluid,11387
I respectfully disagree with your logic. I do not believe fluids can be too clean.With that extreme, it can hurt a thing, too clean of ATF is a bad thing. Some residual friction material floaties in the fluid is a good thing, for proper operation of the lock up clutch in a Torque Converter. Otherwise, you would need to add a friction modifier to the ATF for the lock up clutch to operate properly.
Are you serious? Have you ever been into an automatic before?You forget something. A brand new lock up torque converter has the clutches operating optimal from the factory. But as soon as you start using it, the clutch material starts to wear, wear particles from the clutch which gets suspended in the ATF.
Over the long term, when there clutch is worn enough, it will start shuddering on a "clean" fluid if you overdo the ATF as suggested above. Then you have to start adding stuff like Lubegard additives as a band-aid to replacing the torque converter, so lubegard makes some money on this.
The Car Care Nut Youtube channel.
Care Care Nut is substantiated by many, many comments from followers, and by his utter substance.
A Toyota master technician on Youtube, fairly well educated on Toyota's specifically, but he is very strict in regards to OEM parts only even down to the simplest of things.
Good channel however for Toyota owners who are looking to get their hands dirty a bit.
I pull 3 quarts from the transmission every oil change (6k OCI) on my Chrysler Hemi with a NAG gearbox. Gearbox has 163k miles on it and operates perfectly. The shift logic loves partial EMCC and it’s smooth as butter.You forget something. A brand new lock up torque converter has the clutches operating optimal from the factory. But as soon as you start using it, the clutch material starts to wear, wear particles from the clutch which gets suspended in the ATF.
Over the long term, when there clutch is worn enough, it will start shuddering on a "clean" fluid if you overdo the ATF as suggested above. Then you have to start adding stuff like Lubegard additives as a band-aid to replacing the torque converter, so lubegard makes some money on this.
Scotty is a good person to go to for 1994 Toyota Celica's that been sitting at 240,000 miles for the past 5+ years.Ah, yes. I am familiar with him. There was a discussion here on BITOG, that was all about his strong opinion on OCI on Toyota engines. Or at least certain Toyota engines. Yea, I wasn't all that impressed with the "legendary" Car Care Nut.
He definitely spews out a lot of self confidence in his opinions. But then, so does Scotty Kilmer.
Carcarenut has credibility by way of factory level certifications.Ah, yes. I am familiar with him. There was a discussion here on BITOG, that was all about his strong opinion on OCI on Toyota engines. Or at least certain Toyota engines. Yea, I wasn't all that impressed with the "legendary" Car Care Nut.
He definitely spews out a lot of self confidence in his opinions. But then, so does Scotty Kilmer.
Seems a little unnecessary and expensive for nothing. I can understand drain and fill every once in a while but every 6k? That's just nuts.I pull 3 quarts from the transmission every oil change (6k OCI) on my Chrysler Hemi
3 quarts of +4 is a lot cheaper than a torque converter and clutches.Seems a little unnecessary and expensive for nothing. I can understand drain and fill every once in a while but every 6k? That's just nuts.
I like the idea of changing out the break in early. 20k or so seems about right for a first time.I bought at 2019 Toyota Corolla Sedan LE 1.8L A/T L4 - 2ZR-FE, CVT, 2WD directly from Toyota dealer with 15,000 miles on it in Sept 2022. It now has 22,000 miles. I would like to dump and add new transmision fluid. It would allow a chance to see: 1) how clean it is and 2) if the fluid is low. I miss the old days with a stick but now I am blind to what is going on in the sealed transmission. Internet search on this topic reveals a general agreement to not change it until 60,000 miles. If changed earlier it will cause transmission problems. Should I wait until 60,000 or start now? Thank you
Yes,yes, the old "cheap insurance" theory. Good for a laugh. It's overkill.3 quarts of +4 is a lot cheaper than a torque converter and clutches.
Do some research on Mercedes NAG transmissions, they need clean fluid. It’s not nuts it’s common sense thank you. A case of six quarts costs me 54 dollars from the dealer.