Toyota ATF WS

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I guess that depends on what you mean as "better options?"

Cheaper, easier to get, etc.

My generic response is "No."

Genuine licensed Toyota WS can only be purchased from Toyota or Aisin. There are lots of ATF's that other companies claim will work fine
and according to many on this forum work like a charm. I have chosen to use only genuine Toyota WS and T-IV in my cars.

I may get rebuked. I may get chastised. I may get made fun of. But one thing I know, you cannot make a mistake using Toyota WS in a Toyota that calls for
Toyota WS.
 
Originally Posted by Gebo
I guess that depends on what you mean as "better options?"

Cheaper, easier to get, etc.

My generic response is "No."

Genuine licensed Toyota WS can only be purchased from Toyota or Aisin. There are lots of ATF's that other companies claim will work fine
and according to many on this forum work like a charm. I have chosen to use only genuine Toyota WS and T-IV in my cars.

I may get rebuked. I may get chastised. I may get made fun of. But one thing I know, you cannot make a mistake using Toyota WS in a Toyota that calls for
Toyota WS.


I agree. Some people sneer at the Toyota WS and I've read some people who think it's a poor quality product. To those people I say, "Well...it must not be a pretty good product if it's used in a $90K+ Lexus".

Ed
 
WS is good; my understanding is it is non-synthetic.
I have used Maxlife in numerous Toyotas; I will use the Idemitsu WS equivalent in our Lexus GS350.
I have never bought or used genuine WS.

As others have stated, there is nothing wrong with the Toyota WS fluid.
 
Depending on what you mean by BETTER.

The transmission is calibrated to WS, so unless it is identical the friction behavior is going to be different.

Are there good enough options that last longer? Maybe
Are there good enough options that are cheaper? Maybe
Will the good enough options make the transmission last longer than you care (i.e. 300K miles), be good enough for you (I hate or can't tell the difference on how it shift)? Maybe

I'm personally using Maxlife on my Prius V instead of WS, so far I cannot notice a lot of difference.
 
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Eneos Import ATF 5 Specs from Toyotas to Hondas and Kias.

I don't trust Maxlife claims of suitability to 30+ specs, when you have just 5 here with enough variability to make one think that a specific fluid is appropriate. Of course, folks who switch vehicles early could use maple syrup and claim excellent results on an Internet forum.

And Eneos claims synthetic base stocks FWIW. WS is a mysterious beast, it's thermal and electric properties are quite different from the fluids of traditional composition.
 
2006 Lexus IS350 144,000 on Toyota WS. Had it flushed and filled with Toyota WS at Lexus Dealer. 167,000 miles and it's still going. I see no reason to use anything else.
 
My son has my old 2009 Corolla, it has 262,500 miles (420,000kms) on it and it shifts like day 1 having only used Toyota WS-ATF.(..and I know because it bought it new)

Why would I mess with the unbelievable longevity or performance its provided to date? ...plus its so cheap already why quibble about a couple of dollars difference considering its cost relative to the expense of fuel for even a single year.
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Stick with OEM fluid - remember there is no price for peace of mind.
Used RL D6 on my Lexus and the transmission didn't like it - switched back to WS and all good.
 
Whether WS is or is not synthetic is moot IMO. What's the price difference to Toyota between synthetic & non-synthetic probably insignificant, so I don't buy into the fact that it's an inferior product, there must be other reasons for Toyota to use it, maybe it is synthetic.
Now Toyota says Lifetime and Aisin says to change every 50K Km, the latter to keep the transmission healthy and the former to give the impression that no maintenance is required and thereby selling more. Most people will never have problems as they'll sell /trade the vehicle before any transmission problems begin, it's the 2nd or 3rd owner that will have the headaches. BTW as far as I know Aisin own fluid is synthetic.
 
Kendall VersaTrans LV. Used it for three transmission line full flushes on a 2005 4-runner, which I traded in on a new 2016 at 285,000 miles. Just did a transmission line flush on the 2016 at 70,000 miles and used the Kendall product, which is a full synthetic. When you are going through 14 qts, for a full exchange , the cost is a factor. I believe, and have proven to myself, that I am using a better product, and saving myself $5.00 per quart
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
IMO Maxlife and Dex6 are a better choice than the ws fluid.


How so and based on what do you claim such a bold stmt
 
Originally Posted by MaximaGuy
Originally Posted by Chris142
IMO Maxlife and Dex6 are a better choice than the ws fluid.


How so and based on what do you claim such a bold stmt


Dunno about Dex6, but Maxlife is a synthetic.
In my opinion, synthetics are better than conventional oils.
I use it in my '01 Tundra and have used it in Nissans, Toyotas and Hondas.

This is not to say WS is not of sufficient quality.
Just my 2 cents.
 
WS works fine, it just doesn't last terribly long.

If you are doing maintenance and draining/filling the pan on modest intervals, it'll work fine. The complaints arise as it is promised to last 100k initial fill, and it simply does not, as many, many owners and operators can attest.

I really don't like using multi-use fluids; I use T-IV in a Lexus spec'd for it, DexIII in my SUV, DW-1 in a Honda. But for WS, I do use Maxlife now. I would use WS if it were cheaper or better.
 
WS works fine for me in 2 Toyotas. There may be other stuff that works too, or works better.

I used Maxlife for a short while after an engine washing mishap got water in the transmission. Cycled it back out again with regular drain and fills of WS. I noticed it shifted firmer with the ML in there. That was about 80K miles ago now at 185K, so no harm done from the water, or the short use of Maxlife.
 
WS isn't that expensive. I do drain/fills on my 2012 Highlander with it and it shifts great. Of course, I only have about 110K miles on it, so it would probably shift fine regardless. The first couple of drain/fills were at 30K and 60K. They didn't look bad at all, so I did the last one at 100K. It looks good, so I'm moving to a 50K mile interval from here on out.
 
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