Toyota 1 year 10k change intervals

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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
The assumption that Toyota or Honda "makes" their oil is interesting. I am sure we can figure out from whom they buy it.


Mobil makes the Toyota oil. It's different then any Mobil oil on the market. ConocoPhillips makes the Honda oil. It use to be made by Mobil also.
 
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: JMHC
We have a 2009 RAV4, and when I saw the synthetic list from Toyota it did not have it listed at all. It has the same 2.5L as the Camry. I wonder why the RAV4 still needs to stick to the 5000 mile schedule?


Probably because Rav4 is heavier and can tow stuff, so severe schedule is applied. Similar schedule is applied in Canada. Toyota Canada requires you to change every 5k miles, even with their 0w20 synthetic oil.


I think the reason that the 4-cylinder RAV4 is specified for 5k/6month OCI is simply because thats what the 6-cylinder RAV4 is specified for. The V6 is factory filled and specified for 5w30, obviously a non-synthetic. However the 4-cylinder RAV4 is factory filled and specified for 0w-20, a synthetic. NOW, the V6 and the 4-cylinder share the same Toyota Maintenance Guide. So I can conclude that the 5k/6month interval is based off the V6 model.

Therefore, i would think you could go 7500miles/9months on the synthetic 0w-20 in your RAV4 4-cylinder. You could prob go longer if you verified with a UOA, but 7500miles/9months is safe for now.

I would also like to add that the 4-cylinder RAV4 weights 3360lbs, just 53lbs more than a 4-cylinder automatic Camry.


Our 4WD limited weighs 3576 actually, so that's about 269 pounds more than the Camry. The Camry also has a 6 speed auto and the RAV is a 4 speed. I wonder if that's enough of a difference to make he 2.5L work harder and need more frequent changes in the RAV. I'm using 5W-20 conventional every 5K and it sounds like I have to stick to it.
 
Originally Posted By: jkhawaii
I recall Seeing a VOA for the Toyota 0w20 and it looked like a plain low end group 3 synthetic with a TBN around 6.8.


The tgmo has a sky high viscosity index,high in moly,its a great oil. Nothing plain about it.
 
Originally Posted By: jkhawaii
I recall Seeing a VOA for the Toyota 0w20 and it looked like a plain low end group 3 synthetic with a TBN around 6.8.


How exactly UOA shows group 3? Please educate me.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: mongo161
The only downside with a UOA is....it won't tell you if you have sludge, varnish or crud in your engine.

A UOA should give you a good idea of how your engine is wearing and a rough estimate of how many miles you can use on the oil.

That is taking into consideration where you live, driving habits and excessive idling.....among other factors.

A UOA will not tell you if the engine has sludge in the sump.


If the TBN in a UOA stays above one third of the VOA original figure then you won't get sludge form, also the insolubles figure will rise if the oil is dirty enough to start forming sludge.
Sludge is mostly caused by exceeding the limits of the oil in detergent and dispersant additive terms, or a coolant leak as anti freeze is real bad news in sludge formation terms.


TBN has nothing to do with sludge. Oxidation and oil thickening has.
 
Toyota just speced the 3.5L V6 for 0w20 with a 10k OCI....I will NEVER do a 10k OCI. Plus since I have had 2 of those engines run like a top on 5w30 synthetic I will not do the 0w20 either. I would be real interested to see what they spec in Australia, South America and Europe for that engine.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JMHC
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: JMHC
We have a 2009 RAV4, and when I saw the synthetic list from Toyota it did not have it listed at all. It has the same 2.5L as the Camry. I wonder why the RAV4 still needs to stick to the 5000 mile schedule?


Probably because Rav4 is heavier and can tow stuff, so severe schedule is applied. Similar schedule is applied in Canada. Toyota Canada requires you to change every 5k miles, even with their 0w20 synthetic oil.


I think the reason that the 4-cylinder RAV4 is specified for 5k/6month OCI is simply because thats what the 6-cylinder RAV4 is specified for. The V6 is factory filled and specified for 5w30, obviously a non-synthetic. However the 4-cylinder RAV4 is factory filled and specified for 0w-20, a synthetic. NOW, the V6 and the 4-cylinder share the same Toyota Maintenance Guide. So I can conclude that the 5k/6month interval is based off the V6 model.

Therefore, i would think you could go 7500miles/9months on the synthetic 0w-20 in your RAV4 4-cylinder. You could prob go longer if you verified with a UOA, but 7500miles/9months is safe for now.

I would also like to add that the 4-cylinder RAV4 weights 3360lbs, just 53lbs more than a 4-cylinder automatic Camry.


Our 4WD limited weighs 3576 actually, so that's about 269 pounds more than the Camry. The Camry also has a 6 speed auto and the RAV is a 4 speed. I wonder if that's enough of a difference to make he 2.5L work harder and need more frequent changes in the RAV. I'm using 5W-20 conventional every 5K and it sounds like I have to stick to it.


That engine likes QSUD or PP 5w20
 
Not trying to highjack...but tag-a-long on this thread. My '13 Tacoma 2.7L calls for 0w-20 syn only. Because it's a truck it falls under the "severe duty" OCI even with the syn.

I know this is a 50/50 question...with answers coming from both sides. But would it help/hurt changing the oil early at...lets say 2K?
 
I don't see how it would hurt, most would just say you're wasting your money. I would probably do every 3,000 and no less with a quality oil. If you put on miles slowly, do every few months?
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: mongo161
The only downside with a UOA is....it won't tell you if you have sludge, varnish or crud in your engine.

A UOA should give you a good idea of how your engine is wearing and a rough estimate of how many miles you can use on the oil.

That is taking into consideration where you live, driving habits and excessive idling.....among other factors.

A UOA will not tell you if the engine has sludge in the sump.


If the TBN in a UOA stays above one third of the VOA original figure then you won't get sludge form, also the insolubles figure will rise if the oil is dirty enough to start forming sludge.
Sludge is mostly caused by exceeding the limits of the oil in detergent and dispersant additive terms, or a coolant leak as anti freeze is real bad news in sludge formation terms.


TBN has nothing to do with sludge. Oxidation and oil thickening has.


Huh?
Of course tbn and sludge are related. The tbn represents the amount of additives that are in the oil that combat oxidization.
Once tbn is depleted that now means the oil has neutralized as much as it can. Unless I'm way out to lunch.
Can someone correct me. This is how I understand this aspect of oil. If I'm wrong can someone help me. In words I can understand please.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy

Huh?
Of course tbn and sludge are related. The tbn represents the amount of additives that are in the oil that combat oxidization.
Once tbn is depleted that now means the oil has neutralized as much as it can. Unless I'm way out to lunch.
Can someone correct me.


Why do you correct people if you are clueless yourself?
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: Clevy

Huh?
Of course tbn and sludge are related. The tbn represents the amount of additives that are in the oil that combat oxidization.
Once tbn is depleted that now means the oil has neutralized as much as it can. Unless I'm way out to lunch.
Can someone correct me.


Why do you correct people if you are clueless yourself?


I commented on how I understood it and asked that if my understanding of it was incorrect I would like to be informed.
Is that alright with you. Constructive
 
Originally Posted By: Cujobob
I don't see how it would hurt, most would just say you're wasting your money. I would probably do every 3,000 and no less with a quality oil. If you put on miles slowly, do every few months?

I was referring to the factory fill only. Any real benefit to changing it before 5K?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: FamilyBuggy

I was referring to the factory fill only. Any real benefit to changing it before 5K?


None that you can measure (excluding psychological).
 
I think you guys are getting too upset over something as unimpressive as a 10k OCI. For the record 1 year or 10000km (6200m) OCI's where the norm with Toyota in the early 90's. Since the mid 90's it has been 15000km (9300m) and I can assure you, the roadsides are not littered with engine-damaged Toyotas. This was with any namebrand synthetic, mostly 0w-40, 5w-40 and 5w-50. Engines and oils have improved much so why linger in the past with OCI's?
 
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Originally Posted By: JMHC
I'm using 5W-20 conventional every 5K and it sounds like I have to stick to it.


Good plan


+1 If you are going to change your oil every 5K or six months a good quality API approved Conventional/Dino oil is the way to go.....
 
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