Torque Sticks... Pros & Cons ??

Mode of hammering is different than pneumatic impacts. The results are very inconsistent when used with cordless impacts.

They are "OK" when used with pneumatic impacts as long as they are paired with the appropriate pneumatic impact and inlet line pressure.

Honestly, they're not worth the investment in most cases. Run the nuts on lightly with your impact and finish with torque wrench. Of course, this is assuming that you have good trigger control....not everyone does.
 
Mode of hammering is different than pneumatic impacts. The results are very inconsistent when used with cordless impacts.

They are "OK" when used with pneumatic impacts as long as they are paired with the appropriate pneumatic impact and inlet line pressure.

Honestly, they're not worth the investment in most cases. Run the nuts on lightly with your impact and finish with torque wrench. Of course, this is assuming that you have good trigger control....not everyone does.
It may be different but they are still accurate in my use with my M18 on the second setting.
 
I've thought about buying them before, but at the end of the day for me I don't see a ton of use. I think I have a decent feel for the impact getting them snug but not actually torqued.

I did watch a video on Youtube several years ago where someone had gone through and tested them, including both the Harbor Freight ones and some more expensive ones. He tested them using high speed cameras to see the torque limit. IIRC, his "check" was to see how high he had to set a clicker wrench to get them to tighten further. I wasn't able to locate the video in a quick look, but here's what I remember

1. You must use them with a relatively high torque, fast gun. The common Ingersoll-Rand model(don't know the model number) that use to be super popular, and the Harbor Freight clone of can deliver 500-600 ft-lbs with proper air pressure, and this is fine. Using a 200-300ft-lb, which is in the range of a lot of the more affordable battery impact guns. He found that using too low of a torque gun(or too slow) could actually over-torque

2. Extensions are a no-go. Use nothing but the torque stick between the gun and socket.

3. He got more consistent results using shallow well sockets than with deep well. I don't remember the reason, but it's something to keep in mind, especially since all of my impact sockets are deep.

Used within those paramaters, I seem to remember him getting +/-5% of the rated torque. Deviating from any of this could overtorque anywhere from a little to a lot.

If I were to use them, I'd probably use one 20ft-lbs or so below my target torque and then finish with a wrench. As I said, I can usually get close enough to that if I set my impact to the lowest setting and stop as soon as it starts hammering(rather than spinning).
 
think of these as a torsion bar. They twist preventing over tightening of the lug nut.

Years ago worked at a garage that never put a wheel back on without using a torque stick. I don't have any for home, but wouldn't hesitate to use them in a garage setting especially...

Just my $0.02
 
I tried them and sold them shortly after. The biggest problem is you don't get any feedback like a wrench. I just snug them up with my torque adjustable IR cordless impact, and finish with a torque wrench. I always come back to the first one and if it moves, I go around again.
 
I've thought about buying them before, but at the end of the day for me I don't see a ton of use. I think I have a decent feel for the impact getting them snug but not actually torqued.

I did watch a video on Youtube several years ago where someone had gone through and tested them, including both the Harbor Freight ones and some more expensive ones. He tested them using high speed cameras to see the torque limit. IIRC, his "check" was to see how high he had to set a clicker wrench to get them to tighten further. I wasn't able to locate the video in a quick look, but here's what I remember

1. You must use them with a relatively high torque, fast gun. The common Ingersoll-Rand model(don't know the model number) that use to be super popular, and the Harbor Freight clone of can deliver 500-600 ft-lbs with proper air pressure, and this is fine. Using a 200-300ft-lb, which is in the range of a lot of the more affordable battery impact guns. He found that using too low of a torque gun(or too slow) could actually over-torque

2. Extensions are a no-go. Use nothing but the torque stick between the gun and socket.

3. He got more consistent results using shallow well sockets than with deep well. I don't remember the reason, but it's something to keep in mind, especially since all of my impact sockets are deep.

Used within those paramaters, I seem to remember him getting +/-5% of the rated torque. Deviating from any of this could overtorque anywhere from a little to a lot.

If I were to use them, I'd probably use one 20ft-lbs or so below my target torque and then finish with a wrench. As I said, I can usually get close enough to that if I set my impact to the lowest setting and stop as soon as it starts hammering(rather than spinning).

The old IR 231 works well with these but almost any air impact will be okay if someone really want to use one. I just run them up with the Makita mid size and finish with the split beam.
 
I use them all the time with my Milwaukee 1/2" cordless. I Remove and replace summer/winter sets twice a year on multiple vehicles. I usually run the next size over the desired torque. 90 LB for a 85 LB spec. I used to randomly check with my torque wrench. I stopped doing that a decade ago. Never lost a wheel, never had a lug overtightened. I use a 3 bag air jack and can replace all 4 wheels in about 30-40 minutes. Time saver.
 
I use the 80#/ft and finish with the ol' Bonny torque wrench. But I usually forget and just use the torque wrench.
Probably my favorite tool.
 
I can't imagine why anyone would want one of these for home use.
Own a set that I had never used.

Replacing the timing belt on a 2008 Accent (interference engine) the crankshaft bolt needed 135 ft. lbs.
The harmonic balancer pulley would keep slipping no matter how tightly we clamped it. It was clear to me that the face of the pulley was going to be scarred by the chain clamp. Hence destroying the timing belt early and the engine.
I was using an old leather belt between the clamp and pulley. (it got too small for me):)

Tadaa! I remembered my never used torque bars. Used my smallest electric impact rated at 150 ft. lbs. on an extension cord (deliberately) with a 120 ft. lb. torque bar. 3 to 5 hits and done.
5 years later runs like a top.
 
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