To hone or not to hone

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Engine Cylinder walls of a 1zz-fe in question.

The guy who wrote the DIY oil consumption fix suggests it should be done to seat the new rings. He has rebuilt many engines that I know of, both of my celicas for a matter of fact, I'm rebuilding a 1zz-fed head and a 1zz-fe complete short block for fun and to one day install in my Celica Gt as even after the original engine rebuild (we are assuming worn cylinder walls from being run low on oil enough to have a spun connecting rod bearing) it burns about 1 quart of oil in 3500-4000 miles, which I hate! Funny thing is, city driving doesn't burn any oil where as highway driving is where it burns oil.

Toyota tech with 25+ years of experience suggest that Toyota recommends against honing the cylinder walls anymore and the piston rings are "low tension rings" I have no idea what that means. He has rebuilt plenty of engines without honing and says he doesn't get the oil consumption issue to come back. Tech also claimed that Toyota doesn't mean use break-in oil anymore, I am not sure how true that is.

New OEM piston rings & connecting rod bearings will be used but all the gaskets will be Fel-Pro, as well as the head bolts & washer

My 2zz-GE has MMC coating on the cylinder walls? and if honed can lead to oil burning issue(Celica forums suggested that). We didn't hone the cylinder walls in that car, it doesn't burn any oil at all now after the rebuilt and goes through the full RPM range that is allowed.

What do you guys think? and why please? I would prefer to understand both side of the arguments if possible and please logic only, I don't care for your "I have done this forever and its the best way there is and no other better route" stuff.
 
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I always liked the hardened chrome ring kits with the wavy expander ring that goes behind the chrome ring. This pushes the chrome ring out against the cylinder wall for a better seal. No need to hone because they cut their own path through the cylinder wall. When you hone a cylinder, you're removing cylinder wall thickness which decreases ring tension - you don't want that. As long as the cylinder is within the wear limits, usually .003'' - you can install a standard size chrome ring kit. I did this to an oil burning Briggs & Stratton one time and the the results were dramatic. Not only did it not burn oil anymore, the compression went way up.
 
Makes sense, I think I agree with you, I'm inclined to believe the toyota tech only because he specifically works on toyota engines from what he told me, plus my 2zzge without being honed the piston rings seating perfectly and not burning any oil regardless of the 7-8k redlining I do every time I drive it (once every other week LOL)
 
If you have low tension rings, it means that when the piston ring expands in the bore, it doesn't push very hard against the cylinder wall. This is great for reducing frictional loss and cylinder bore wear, but unless the conditions are right, the rings will not hold a good seal.
 
Depends. Was there a noticeable ridge at the top of the cylinders? Was the factory crosshatching still visible? I haven't rebuilt an engine since my bug days and they are a whole 'nother thing. Just head work. and stuff. a wiped out block from oil loss may require a bore and over sized pistons. The loss of a qt in 4k miles is fine. Well within my shade tree hack limits.
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Well...dont compare a coated cylinder for one.

If you hone a coated cylinder, you are actually supposed to bore to the next size...

As for JUST honing on a motor wiped out by no oil...oversized pistons, rings, and bore is my choice.

Why?

Why half [censored] it and be back in the motor within 50k?
 
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
Well...dont compare a coated cylinder for one.

If you hone a coated cylinder, you are actually supposed to bore to the next size...

As for JUST honing on a motor wiped out by no oil...oversized pistons, rings, and bore is my choice.

Why?

Why half [censored] it and be back in the motor within 50k?


Ding dang good question!

Why would anyone do all that when they know it is a half (you know this word!) repair?

If I am into an engine that deep it's getting bored...
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm


That article states it's better to not hone a bore that is in good condition if you're using cast iron rings. I believe many manufacturers are using materials other than iron for the top ring now. I wonder how that would play out?

I know one of the rings on the GM 2.4 I rebuilt had a steel ring in there.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm


That article states it's better to not hone a bore that is in good condition if you're using cast iron rings. I believe many manufacturers are using materials other than iron for the top ring now. I wonder how that would play out?

I know one of the rings on the GM 2.4 I rebuilt had a steel ring in there.


Rings are cast iron with different coatings.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm


That article states it's better to not hone a bore that is in good condition if you're using cast iron rings. I believe many manufacturers are using materials other than iron for the top ring now. I wonder how that would play out?

I know one of the rings on the GM 2.4 I rebuilt had a steel ring in there.


Rings are cast iron with different coatings.


No, not aways.

As I mentioned- on my GM 2.4, one of the rings is a steel (of some alloy) ring. How do I know? Because not only did it look completely different from the other ring, but when I went to break one so I could sharpen an edge to clean the groves, it would not break. At all. I could twist that thing into a pretzel if I wanted. If it is an iron ring, then it's the most malleable iron I've ever seen.
 
That's interesting on the steel ring. Either way, I don't think it is relevant for the authors premise that honing is not always needed.
 
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Agreed. If you have a healthy bore and have plain faced iron rings, then it's likely the best bet.
 
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