Hey guys...I'm a newbie on the site, and I've been digging around the site for the past few days but haven't seen an exact topic on what I'm looking for, so here goes. I just bought a '94 Honda Civic 5speed with 151k miles on it to use a commuter car. I drive 100 miles round trip daily (mostly interstate) and I was wondering if I should change the car over from dino oil to synthetic? I've heard leave it alone, you might cause leaks on the seals, and I've heard you can switch up with no problems. The previous owner looked like he was putting 10w40 in it when it should be 5w30. I changed it when I got it (400 miles ago) back to HM Castrol 5w30. Also, the manual trans calls for 10w30 or 10w40, and my guess is it's never been changed. Should I switch it to syn, or go with a HM 10w30 0r 10w40? Sorry for the long post...Just wanted to cover it all at once......Thanks for any info....
To change or not to change...94 Civic w/151K
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Does the car leak oil? Burn oil?
I've never been a fan of HM oils...I think it's simply marketing IMHO although others have had positive experiences with it.
How far do you want to take the OCI?
People have said the whole synthetic thing leaking is a myth, some swear it made their car leak etc. I'm not going to get into myth vs fact but if it were MY car, I'd use a dino 10w30 to help with the rings or an oil burning issue. If the car used no oil I'd use the 5w30 dino. For an OCI, I'd change every 5 to 6,000 miles. That Honda + highway miles will be easy on any oil.
If you want, you can certainly try a synthetic if you want to drag the OCIs out a little bit. Just make sure you're engine is in good shape before pushing an OCI beyond 5,000 miles (i.e. make sure you're not losing coolant).
For the transmission; go for it. Can't really hurt. However, if it has never been changed expect lots of sludge. May need to flush it out.
Good luck.
Oh yea, and
I've never been a fan of HM oils...I think it's simply marketing IMHO although others have had positive experiences with it.
How far do you want to take the OCI?
People have said the whole synthetic thing leaking is a myth, some swear it made their car leak etc. I'm not going to get into myth vs fact but if it were MY car, I'd use a dino 10w30 to help with the rings or an oil burning issue. If the car used no oil I'd use the 5w30 dino. For an OCI, I'd change every 5 to 6,000 miles. That Honda + highway miles will be easy on any oil.
If you want, you can certainly try a synthetic if you want to drag the OCIs out a little bit. Just make sure you're engine is in good shape before pushing an OCI beyond 5,000 miles (i.e. make sure you're not losing coolant).
For the transmission; go for it. Can't really hurt. However, if it has never been changed expect lots of sludge. May need to flush it out.
Good luck.
Oh yea, and
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I'm still in the 'feeling it out' stage of the car so far. I've only put maybe 700 miles on the car, and I just changed the oil in it this past weekend. I don't think it uses any oil, and I didn't see any leaks. I still have to flush out the coolant and new up with the thermostat, flush out the brake fluid with some new, as well as the PS and the clutch. I bought the car from a friend of mine who was the original owner, so the car wasn't dogged out any, but he isn't the 'under the hood' guy by any means....And Thanks for the welcome GMFan!
Oh yea...I forgot about the OCI's....I've always done mine at 3k...even with my highway miles. I figure oil is cheap insurance. I just recently started putting M1 5w30 in my Toyota Tacoma at the 135k mark (it's at 151k now) and also my Toyota Sienna that has a factory replacement 'Sludge' motor in it w/ 50k on the motor and 181k on the body. I started at 42k with NAPA SYN 5w30 then last oil change went with Valvoline SYN 5w30 ($13/5qt jug @ Wally World). Any harm in changing around between SYN brands each time? I plan on doing 7500 OCI's in the cars with SYN in them....
I put gtx 5w30 in my d16y7 at 7500 mile OCIs until I sold my Civic last month at 180k miles. Didn't leak and when I did my valve clearance at the beginning of 09, the cam and valves were as clean as could be. If you're doing 3k OCIs synthetic in a d16 is a waste. If you want to do 12k OCIs, cheap syn (synpower, PP, M1) would be as expensive as I'd go.
I'd worry more about changing the transmission fluid. You wouldn't run the engine oil for 150k! Buy Honda's MTF; it's ~7$ a qt. at the stealership, and you'll need about 2 bottles. (Just a guess!) Assuming the car is currently running OEM fill or an engine oil, you'll be blown away by the improved shifting. AFAIK, straight syn doesn't always work well in the transmission. If you must run motor oil, use a dino mix.
Before choosing an oil type (syn or dino), check under the valve cover. If there's a fair amount of deposits on the rocker hardware, you might want to run one or two shortened-OCI (3K miles, maybe?) batches of syn through the engine.
After that you can run either style of oil. With a clean engine, a solid syn oil can go 10K without much worry. Since you're driving so much, the reduced maintenance interval will probably be welcome. Pick a good filter if you decide to go with the long-duration oil. (Cruise the Filter forum section, it can be even more entertaining than this place!)
-Greg
Before choosing an oil type (syn or dino), check under the valve cover. If there's a fair amount of deposits on the rocker hardware, you might want to run one or two shortened-OCI (3K miles, maybe?) batches of syn through the engine.
After that you can run either style of oil. With a clean engine, a solid syn oil can go 10K without much worry. Since you're driving so much, the reduced maintenance interval will probably be welcome. Pick a good filter if you decide to go with the long-duration oil. (Cruise the Filter forum section, it can be even more entertaining than this place!)
-Greg
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Oil filters are my next 'subject' to study on. I've been usinf Fram for years, and when I started digging around on here, I found out everyone is against the big Orange one. I have started using NAPA gold recently which I think are made by WIX as well as Oreilly's filters. Thanks for all of the info on the oil. I think I'll change the oil in the transmission this weekend (or next week as I'm off work!). The main thing I'm after in this little car is MPG's, and I figure the good synthetics might help with that as well. My first tank of gas I ran through it was 93oct Ethanol free with a bottle of Chevron Techron and I got 39.86 MPG's with a terrible set of tires on it. The next tank was 87oct w/ 'up to 10% enriched' Ethanol and no Techron and got 35.46 MPG's. I put a new set of Michelins on it Monday and have been running 87oct w/ ethanol all week and I'll see what that will do. My next tank will be 87oct w/o ethanol to have something else to compare to. It's kinda fun playing with my new 'toy'......Bud
Redline MTL for the transmission. Much better shifting than even Honda MTL (white cap). You need 1.9qts. Dump the full 2 qts in and let it drip out the fill hole till it stops.
As easy as d16s are on oil, the filter isn't incredibly important until you start looking at 15k OCIs. I ran my civic on orange Frams from 20k to 100k and then PL14610 from 100k to 180k when I got rid of it.....again the engine ran perfectly, valvetrain was clean as could be, and no leaks anywhere.
I know I may be being the devil's advocate, but just trying to let people know of real world experience about how little effort and money you have to put into maintaining 5G and 6G d16 civics and they run forever.
As easy as d16s are on oil, the filter isn't incredibly important until you start looking at 15k OCIs. I ran my civic on orange Frams from 20k to 100k and then PL14610 from 100k to 180k when I got rid of it.....again the engine ran perfectly, valvetrain was clean as could be, and no leaks anywhere.
I know I may be being the devil's advocate, but just trying to let people know of real world experience about how little effort and money you have to put into maintaining 5G and 6G d16 civics and they run forever.
It's a high-mileage Honda 'beater car'....keep it cheap.
Any 5w30/10W-30 oil you find on sale, with whatever filter you can also find on sale at 7500-mile OCI's will keep that engine going forever.
Nothing wrong with Fram filters, either, by the way - it's just 'stylish' to hate them on this site. It's not actually based on fact - they work fine!
Any 5w30/10W-30 oil you find on sale, with whatever filter you can also find on sale at 7500-mile OCI's will keep that engine going forever.
Nothing wrong with Fram filters, either, by the way - it's just 'stylish' to hate them on this site. It's not actually based on fact - they work fine!
Syn might allow a leak to occur due to better cleaning around seals. It is a hit and miss issue that HM Syn oils could help stop.
Fram is O.K filter but your Napa Gold is a much better choice for about the same money.
You might find a good Syn transmission oil will make shifting much smoother.
Mobil 1 HM or Full Syn Valvoline Maxlife might be good choices. I feel 6,000-7500 is a safe OCI.
Fram is O.K filter but your Napa Gold is a much better choice for about the same money.
You might find a good Syn transmission oil will make shifting much smoother.
Mobil 1 HM or Full Syn Valvoline Maxlife might be good choices. I feel 6,000-7500 is a safe OCI.
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Originally Posted By: ZZman
You might find a good Syn transmission oil will make shifting much smoother.
Yes, d and b series Honda 5spds love redline MTL (not MT90).
You might find a good Syn transmission oil will make shifting much smoother.
Yes, d and b series Honda 5spds love redline MTL (not MT90).
Originally Posted By: addyguy
It's a high-mileage Honda 'beater car'....keep it cheap.
Any 5w30/10W-30 oil you find on sale, with whatever filter you can also find on sale at 7500-mile OCI's will keep that engine going forever.
Nothing wrong with Fram filters, either, by the way - it's just 'stylish' to hate them on this site. It's not actually based on fact - they work fine!
Agree 100%
Bill
PS:
It's a high-mileage Honda 'beater car'....keep it cheap.
Any 5w30/10W-30 oil you find on sale, with whatever filter you can also find on sale at 7500-mile OCI's will keep that engine going forever.
Nothing wrong with Fram filters, either, by the way - it's just 'stylish' to hate them on this site. It's not actually based on fact - they work fine!
Agree 100%
Bill
PS:
Originally Posted By: budzig
Oil filters are my next 'subject' to study on.
Thanks for all of the info on the oil. I think I'll change the oil in the transmission this weekend (or next week as I'm off work!).
The main thing I'm after in this little car is MPG's...
IMO, the middle-high end Frams are 'OK,' but you can buy the same or better quality for less.
As suggested, Redline's MTF is good stuff. Penzoil's Synchromesh gets good Honda driver reviews too.
Highway mileage will respond most strongly to speed and tire pressure. Just slowing by 5MPH will probably get you another 2~3 MPG. Inflating the tires half a dozen (or so) PSI above the door jam values will net one more, with the bonus of slightly increase tire life and resistance to hydroplaning. IMO, there it no point in going much higher. As you exceed ~40PSI, ride quality continues to degrade, but rolling resistance tends to level off.
City MPG is all about anticipating lights and traffic. Ease off as soon as possible to avoid hard braking. Coasting with the car in N is effective, particularly if you've got a slight incline working for you.
Apart from the usual plugs and wires, a new O2 sensor may help too. As I understand it, aging O2 sensors slowly drive the computer toward prescribing a somewhat richer mixture for the engine.
Running a 0w30 oil is perfectly safe and might squeeze another MPG.
Oil filters are my next 'subject' to study on.
Thanks for all of the info on the oil. I think I'll change the oil in the transmission this weekend (or next week as I'm off work!).
The main thing I'm after in this little car is MPG's...
IMO, the middle-high end Frams are 'OK,' but you can buy the same or better quality for less.
As suggested, Redline's MTF is good stuff. Penzoil's Synchromesh gets good Honda driver reviews too.
Highway mileage will respond most strongly to speed and tire pressure. Just slowing by 5MPH will probably get you another 2~3 MPG. Inflating the tires half a dozen (or so) PSI above the door jam values will net one more, with the bonus of slightly increase tire life and resistance to hydroplaning. IMO, there it no point in going much higher. As you exceed ~40PSI, ride quality continues to degrade, but rolling resistance tends to level off.
City MPG is all about anticipating lights and traffic. Ease off as soon as possible to avoid hard braking. Coasting with the car in N is effective, particularly if you've got a slight incline working for you.
Apart from the usual plugs and wires, a new O2 sensor may help too. As I understand it, aging O2 sensors slowly drive the computer toward prescribing a somewhat richer mixture for the engine.
Running a 0w30 oil is perfectly safe and might squeeze another MPG.
I had 240K on my 94 Honda Civic EX with D16 vtec. Vtec didn't work though, seriously, head was rebuilt and for some reason it stopped working and I didn't care! lol!
5w30 valvoline Maxlife syn blend.
5 quart jugs from Walmart
didn't leak and didn't really burn much oil, maybe 1/2 quart every 4500 miles. I used whatever filters were easiest to get on and off lol!
I just changed the oil whenever I got time lol (b/t 4000 and 6000 miles)
75% highways miles were put on it when I had it and I got b/t 33-36mpg. But this is in the Windy state of Iowa and I drove accross an interstate with like 30mph winds every frickin day.
5w30 valvoline Maxlife syn blend.
5 quart jugs from Walmart
didn't leak and didn't really burn much oil, maybe 1/2 quart every 4500 miles. I used whatever filters were easiest to get on and off lol!
I just changed the oil whenever I got time lol (b/t 4000 and 6000 miles)
75% highways miles were put on it when I had it and I got b/t 33-36mpg. But this is in the Windy state of Iowa and I drove accross an interstate with like 30mph winds every frickin day.
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I just picked up some Honda MTF with the white cap (do they have different colors and caps?) to give that a try this weekend and see if the trans shifts any smoother. I'm also thinking of doing the Auto-Rx routine on the motor in the future to see if that makes a difference. Since I changed the oil in it last weekend, I've put around 500 miles on it, and already the oil is turning black. In my Toyota's with the Syn in them, the oil stays golden till around 3k miles, so I thought the Auto-Rx might help with the cleansing, although looking at the valves through the oil fil hole in the valve cover, they didn't look too bad. I might also run some RX through the trans in around 3k more miles as well....that looks like some pretty good stuff without clogging up your oil screen in the pan. I also bumped up the air pressure in the tires to 36 (from the 26 the clowns at Wally World sent me out of the door with when they mounted my new Michelin X Radials) which is more than the 32 recommended in the manual but still not the 44 max on the sidewall.....
I ran 36psi as well.
not sure what you mean by adding RX? I would NOT ADD any ADDITIVE into your engine oil or transmission oil.
If you grind, either fix it or get GM synchromesh or a thicker oil like BG synchroshift II. D series transmissions are a dime a dozen and they are great learner transmissions for drivers and for rebuilding your first transmission. Go buy a couple for $200, seriously lol!
If you are looking to FLush your transmission and want to stick with Honda MTF, just buy more Honda MTF and change it out after a few hundred miles.
not sure what you mean by adding RX? I would NOT ADD any ADDITIVE into your engine oil or transmission oil.
If you grind, either fix it or get GM synchromesh or a thicker oil like BG synchroshift II. D series transmissions are a dime a dozen and they are great learner transmissions for drivers and for rebuilding your first transmission. Go buy a couple for $200, seriously lol!
If you are looking to FLush your transmission and want to stick with Honda MTF, just buy more Honda MTF and change it out after a few hundred miles.
I wouldn't put RX in the transmission. I've drained 100k MTF and it is golden as the day it went in.
If you want to do a short MTF interval, I'd finish off with Redline MTL....seriously.
However, the manual transmission lubes that have the term 'synchro' in it are bandaids....If the transmission is grinding, the synchros are on their way out. These 'synchro' oils will cover it up for a while (multiple years sometimes), but they will also cause the synchros to wear faster as well.
If the transmission is shifting fine, then do not add them. Honda white cap or redline MTL.
If you want to do a short MTF interval, I'd finish off with Redline MTL....seriously.
However, the manual transmission lubes that have the term 'synchro' in it are bandaids....If the transmission is grinding, the synchros are on their way out. These 'synchro' oils will cover it up for a while (multiple years sometimes), but they will also cause the synchros to wear faster as well.
If the transmission is shifting fine, then do not add them. Honda white cap or redline MTL.
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I couldn't wait until tomorrow to change the trans fluid, so I went on and did it tonight.....really dark.....It wouldn't hold both quarts; only 1qt 18ozs worth rather than the 2 the book says. I'm sure it wouldn't all come out the way the car was sitting inclined on the ramps. I'll run that for a while and change it out again, and I should be good to go for another 100k. The trans is shifting fine and working well (no synchro noise at all), I was just changing it out because I can bet it's never been done. The RX I was talking about is the Auto-Rx that I've seen folks talking about on here. I checked out their website and it looks like pretty good stuff. Do you have to order RedLine products or find a dealer like you do AmsOil? I had a guy wanting to sign me up to be a AmsOil dealer in my area one time, but I never went through with it though...Too many oars in the water as it is....
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