Thompson's water seal ... how to thin?

dnewton3

dnewton3

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https://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/...d-sealer#accordion-f13fffd0ac-item-066fb74446

In the past, I have been able to successfully use Thompson's WaterSeal in a traditional 1-gal pump sprayer. For years I've been doing this to seal the wood on my deck after a good cleaning. But, it seems that they've had a product change, as the WaterSeal no longer distributes well via the sprayer. Back in the day, it was very thin; nearly water-like. Now, it's obviously more viscous. In fact, it is a bit too viscous now; it won't spray in a mist and instead just sort of dribbles out of the sprayer nozzle. It's not a problem with the sprayer; I've tried a few different ones. It's not a singular product defect; I've seen a friend have the same issue from a gallon he bought recently from a different source.

The SDS indicates various paraffin oils and waxes, along with some various hydrocarbons.
https://paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=THOM&lang=2&cntry=US&doctype=SDS&prodno=032053918056


The product instructions say "Do not thin", so that would indicate a limitation. But I think perhaps thinning by maybe only 10-20% would be enough to get it to flow well through the sprayer nozzle. The same sheet indicates the product is a "mineral oil" (generic description) in the CAUTIONS section. Despite the "Do not thin" note, wouldn't something of similar construct added to the product suffice to thin it out a tad? I'm not looking to cut it in half, concentration wise. Just enough to get it to flow well enough to get to a mist. I realize that thinning the product will likely also alter its effect; a risk I'm willing to experiment with.

So, what would be recommended for a thinning agent as a trial? I can do some off-line spray tests on extra wood I have laying about. But I'd like to know what to use to try to thin the product.


Thoughts from those who know chemistry? (that's not my thing)
 
What options on pressure and sprayer nozzles do you have to vary first?

If they say do not thin, there’s a reason. Could be because they have the oils and waxes dispersed a certain way, and thinning could dissolve them and change their application, or perhaps it’s the right amount to actually get a one coat treatment that actually seals the surfaces.

Mineral spirits would be the first choice to me, but naphtha is the other that I’d think about. Both should be similar to the aliphatic hydrocarbon content (vs aromatics like benzene and toluene), naphtha probably somewhat lighter and more volatile.

I’ve not been that impressed with the product. I applied it a year after I built a big playhouse for my kids. I think the weathered look was more consistent. The Thompson treated areas discolored over time more inconsistently. Have you found that it really has staying power or needs a lot of re-application to have consistent coloration?
 
Would a pressurized backpack sprayer be able to overcome the change in formula challenges?

Supplementally, Milwaukee sells a battery operated sprayer.
 
The fifth MSDS listing of 64742-48-7 looks to be naptha as an ingredient, so I'm thinking you could use naptha, or coleman white gas, since it's already in the formula.
Would be some flammability risk I suppose.
 
How about trying to apply it in a different way?

I have a dedicated string mop and squeeze bucket to apply diesel/oil mix to my various trailers, makes the task go very quick.

1758284641601.webp


or something like this
1758284483728.webp
 
I've tried different sprayers, and the one I've been only moderately successful with has the widest nozzle, so other I think I've hit a dead end there.

As for other methods; yes - I'm aware. But the sprayer is easier to control for the various surfaces such as the hand rails, etc. Plus, I do use this same set-up for the vertical wood retaining walls I have. So horizontal applications are not my only challenge. This is where a sprayer makes it easier. It would be hard to "mop" on a vertical wall without a lot of product slowly running down the walls.

Again - I realize that playing with the chemistry may alter the product performance. I'm willing to experiment first with some trial wood samples to see what concentration may be the tradeoff between lower vis and product effectiveness.


Generally, I've had good success with the product in the past. I typically buy 5 gal at a time; so not purchasing every year. Somewhere in the last few years, they've changed the product, because it used to be very sprayer-friendly. As to the appearance (coloration changes), I'm indifferent ... doesn't matter to me. What I care about is water repellency and UV protection.
 
I would first try that gallon in a Hot as hot as you can get from the tap water bath in the sink I'm gonna bet it might come around.
I do this all the time with fruit tree spray.
 
Last edited:
dnewton3 said:
https://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/...d-sealer#accordion-f13fffd0ac-item-066fb74446

In the past, I have been able to successfully use Thompson's WaterSeal in a traditional 1-gal pump sprayer. For years I've been doing this to seal the wood on my deck after a good cleaning. But, it seems that they've had a product change, as the WaterSeal no longer distributes well via the sprayer. Back in the day, it was very thin; nearly water-like. Now, it's obviously more viscous. In fact, it is a bit too viscous now; it won't spray in a mist and instead just sort of dribbles out of the sprayer nozzle. It's not a problem with the sprayer; I've tried a few different ones. It's not a singular product defect; I've seen a friend have the same issue from a gallon he bought recently from a different source.

The SDS indicates various paraffin oils and waxes, along with some various hydrocarbons.
https://paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=THOM&lang=2&cntry=US&doctype=SDS&prodno=032053918056


The product instructions say "Do not thin", so that would indicate a limitation. But I think perhaps thinning by maybe only 10-20% would be enough to get it to flow well through the sprayer nozzle. The same sheet indicates the product is a "mineral oil" (generic description) in the CAUTIONS section. Despite the "Do not thin" note, wouldn't something of similar construct added to the product suffice to thin it out a tad? I'm not looking to cut it in half, concentration wise. Just enough to get it to flow well enough to get to a mist. I realize that thinning the product will likely also alter its effect; a risk I'm willing to experiment with.

So, what would be recommended for a thinning agent as a trial? I can do some off-line spray tests on extra wood I have laying about. But I'd like to know what to use to try to thin the product.


Thoughts from those who know chemistry? (that's not my thing)
Click to expand...
The biggest issue and complaints of Thompsons water seal was that it was too thin and didn't last.
 
No offense but that is one of the worst products you can use. Doesn't last at all. The best product I've found is TWP...Total Wood Preservative. It last longer than anything out there. It comes out of Michigan with free shipping on the 5gal. can. Just got some and it was around $200 for 5 gal. Guys are applying it right now.
 
It's 90F outside, where I keep the WaterSeal. I applied it yesterday in a test area. How much "hotter" do you think I can make it and still not be so hot as to scald me? Anything that would be "hot" enough to really truly thin it, would also probably be too hot for the sprayer parts and a danger to handle.
 
dnewton3 said:
It's 90F outside, where I keep the WaterSeal. I applied it yesterday in a test area. How much "hotter" do you think I can make it and still not be so hot as to scald me? Anything that would be "hot" enough to really truly thin it, would also probably be too hot for the sprayer parts and a danger to handle.
Click to expand...
Probably need hot tap 130F it’s not about using the material at that temp it’s bringing it back together. It’s possible it’s expired material or just off spec
If I was to cut it in that case you could destroy the film properties of the product but I would use odorless mineral spirits or solvent 100 but you won’t find that anywhere in a public store.
 
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