My brother did that same job to the letter on his 07 Tahoe. I'll be doing my 09 Suburban probably next spring.
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This week's project: 2009 Tahoe engine R&R
- Thread starter 14Accent
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Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
The engine comes with a 3yr/300k warranty valid at any GM dealer in NA. It's a pretty good deal.
And does that cover just the engine sans plugs/WP/accessories or the labor as well if something in the long block goes bad?
Even if it's a parts only warranty, it's still better than a Jasper engine.
I believe it only covers the engine, but it is parts and labor.
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
The engine comes with a 3yr/300k warranty valid at any GM dealer in NA. It's a pretty good deal.
And does that cover just the engine sans plugs/WP/accessories or the labor as well if something in the long block goes bad?
Even if it's a parts only warranty, it's still better than a Jasper engine.
I believe it only covers the engine, but it is parts and labor.
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
The engine comes with a 3yr/300k warranty valid at any GM dealer in NA. It's a pretty good deal.
And does that cover just the engine sans plugs/WP/accessories or the labor as well if something in the long block goes bad?
Even if it's a parts only warranty, it's still better than a Jasper engine.
I believe it only covers the engine, but it is parts and labor.
Anything is better than a Jasper...
For sure the GM engine is the way to go if you're not up for getting a j/y engine and hoping its good. Ford Reman longblocks have a nice warranty too.
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
The engine comes with a 3yr/300k warranty valid at any GM dealer in NA. It's a pretty good deal.
And does that cover just the engine sans plugs/WP/accessories or the labor as well if something in the long block goes bad?
Even if it's a parts only warranty, it's still better than a Jasper engine.
I believe it only covers the engine, but it is parts and labor.
Anything is better than a Jasper...
For sure the GM engine is the way to go if you're not up for getting a j/y engine and hoping its good. Ford Reman longblocks have a nice warranty too.
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
The engine comes with a 3yr/300k warranty valid at any GM dealer in NA. It's a pretty good deal.
And does that cover just the engine sans plugs/WP/accessories or the labor as well if something in the long block goes bad?
Even if it's a parts only warranty, it's still better than a Jasper engine.
I believe it only covers the engine, but it is parts and labor.
Anything is better than a Jasper...
For sure the GM engine is the way to go if you're not up for getting a j/y engine and hoping its good. Ford Reman longblocks have a nice warranty too.
If you're the type to not swap a mill on your own, you would probably prefer the peace of mind of the warranty.
I wonder how it is compared to a new vehicle warranty. If you come in 10k miles later how hard will they grill you? UOA for a top end issue? What if you disable the AFM? Will they try to blame the 9 year old accoutrements or transmission?
If I were springing for a brand new mill I would want some mild mods and a tune to make it worthwhile. Who cares about the warranty, you have a virgin block, baby!
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
The engine comes with a 3yr/300k warranty valid at any GM dealer in NA. It's a pretty good deal.
And does that cover just the engine sans plugs/WP/accessories or the labor as well if something in the long block goes bad?
Even if it's a parts only warranty, it's still better than a Jasper engine.
I believe it only covers the engine, but it is parts and labor.
Anything is better than a Jasper...
For sure the GM engine is the way to go if you're not up for getting a j/y engine and hoping its good. Ford Reman longblocks have a nice warranty too.
If you're the type to not swap a mill on your own, you would probably prefer the peace of mind of the warranty.
I wonder how it is compared to a new vehicle warranty. If you come in 10k miles later how hard will they grill you? UOA for a top end issue? What if you disable the AFM? Will they try to blame the 9 year old accoutrements or transmission?
If I were springing for a brand new mill I would want some mild mods and a tune to make it worthwhile. Who cares about the warranty, you have a virgin block, baby!
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
If you're the type to not swap a mill on your own, you would probably prefer the peace of mind of the warranty.
I wonder how it is compared to a new vehicle warranty. If you come in 10k miles later how hard will they grill you? UOA for a top end issue? What if you disable the AFM? Will they try to blame the 9 year old accoutrements or transmission?
If I were springing for a brand new mill I would want some mild mods and a tune to make it worthwhile. Who cares about the warranty, you have a virgin block, baby!
Absolutely. If it was my truck it would have gotten a 6.2 with NO AFM and a tune to correct for the fueling needs of the 6.2.
If you're the type to not swap a mill on your own, you would probably prefer the peace of mind of the warranty.
I wonder how it is compared to a new vehicle warranty. If you come in 10k miles later how hard will they grill you? UOA for a top end issue? What if you disable the AFM? Will they try to blame the 9 year old accoutrements or transmission?
If I were springing for a brand new mill I would want some mild mods and a tune to make it worthwhile. Who cares about the warranty, you have a virgin block, baby!
Absolutely. If it was my truck it would have gotten a 6.2 with NO AFM and a tune to correct for the fueling needs of the 6.2.
She's a runner! I did have one minor hiccup... The harness for the AFM solenoids got pinched between the bell housing and engine on install. I didn't notice until it was too late. Ugh. A few minutes with a soldering iron and she was good as new. Sealed with marine heat shrink, I'm not too worried about it.
Everything else went smooth. The motor dropped in without a hitch and lined up right away. I did run into a couple issues with the crate motor:
The oil pan was provisioned for an oil level sensor, which this truck doesn't have. The documents that came with the engine mention this, and tell you to swap oil pans. Nuts to that! I'm not breaking open a brand new engine. Luckily, it's just an M20x1.5 thread which happens to be the same as a Subaru drain plug. Grabbed one from stock and slapped some thread sealant on it. Good enough.
The valve covers on the crate motor were wrong. The PCV hoses we're designed to be push-on, versus the quick connects that this truck had. Easy to swap, 4 bolts each.
All in all, about 12 hours of work from pulling in to driving out. Book is 18ish, so not bad.
Everything else went smooth. The motor dropped in without a hitch and lined up right away. I did run into a couple issues with the crate motor:
The oil pan was provisioned for an oil level sensor, which this truck doesn't have. The documents that came with the engine mention this, and tell you to swap oil pans. Nuts to that! I'm not breaking open a brand new engine. Luckily, it's just an M20x1.5 thread which happens to be the same as a Subaru drain plug. Grabbed one from stock and slapped some thread sealant on it. Good enough.
The valve covers on the crate motor were wrong. The PCV hoses we're designed to be push-on, versus the quick connects that this truck had. Easy to swap, 4 bolts each.
All in all, about 12 hours of work from pulling in to driving out. Book is 18ish, so not bad.
Yep. My brother and I swapped his oil pan and valve covers. I tried to talk him into eliminating the AFM but he didn't want to remove the heads. He runs that plug in AFM disabler thing but he's still susceptible to a lifter failure.
I'll be doing a straight up V8 in mine.
I'll be doing a straight up V8 in mine.
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
She's a runner! I did have one minor hiccup... The harness for the AFM solenoids got pinched between the bell housing and engine on install. I didn't notice until it was too late. Ugh. A few minutes with a soldering iron and she was good as new. Sealed with marine heat shrink, I'm not too worried about it.
Everything else went smooth. The motor dropped in without a hitch and lined up right away. I did run into a couple issues with the crate motor:
The oil pan was provisioned for an oil level sensor, which this truck doesn't have. The documents that came with the engine mention this, and tell you to swap oil pans. Nuts to that! I'm not breaking open a brand new engine. Luckily, it's just an M20x1.5 thread which happens to be the same as a Subaru drain plug. Grabbed one from stock and slapped some thread sealant on it. Good enough.
The valve covers on the crate motor were wrong. The PCV hoses we're designed to be push-on, versus the quick connects that this truck had. Easy to swap, 4 bolts each.
All in all, about 12 hours of work from pulling in to driving out. Book is 18ish, so not bad.
when i had some work vans one of the engines went belly up. brought it to the GMC dealer. they called around midnight and said it needed a new engine. told them ok . i called them at 8 am in the morning asking about it and they said it was done. iirc they charged about 2k for the labor to R&R it . this was about 15 years ago. guess if your quick you can make so bucks
She's a runner! I did have one minor hiccup... The harness for the AFM solenoids got pinched between the bell housing and engine on install. I didn't notice until it was too late. Ugh. A few minutes with a soldering iron and she was good as new. Sealed with marine heat shrink, I'm not too worried about it.
Everything else went smooth. The motor dropped in without a hitch and lined up right away. I did run into a couple issues with the crate motor:
The oil pan was provisioned for an oil level sensor, which this truck doesn't have. The documents that came with the engine mention this, and tell you to swap oil pans. Nuts to that! I'm not breaking open a brand new engine. Luckily, it's just an M20x1.5 thread which happens to be the same as a Subaru drain plug. Grabbed one from stock and slapped some thread sealant on it. Good enough.
The valve covers on the crate motor were wrong. The PCV hoses we're designed to be push-on, versus the quick connects that this truck had. Easy to swap, 4 bolts each.
All in all, about 12 hours of work from pulling in to driving out. Book is 18ish, so not bad.
when i had some work vans one of the engines went belly up. brought it to the GMC dealer. they called around midnight and said it needed a new engine. told them ok . i called them at 8 am in the morning asking about it and they said it was done. iirc they charged about 2k for the labor to R&R it . this was about 15 years ago. guess if your quick you can make so bucks
Originally Posted By: WhyMe
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
She's a runner! I did have one minor hiccup... The harness for the AFM solenoids got pinched between the bell housing and engine on install. I didn't notice until it was too late. Ugh. A few minutes with a soldering iron and she was good as new. Sealed with marine heat shrink, I'm not too worried about it.
Everything else went smooth. The motor dropped in without a hitch and lined up right away. I did run into a couple issues with the crate motor:
The oil pan was provisioned for an oil level sensor, which this truck doesn't have. The documents that came with the engine mention this, and tell you to swap oil pans. Nuts to that! I'm not breaking open a brand new engine. Luckily, it's just an M20x1.5 thread which happens to be the same as a Subaru drain plug. Grabbed one from stock and slapped some thread sealant on it. Good enough.
The valve covers on the crate motor were wrong. The PCV hoses we're designed to be push-on, versus the quick connects that this truck had. Easy to swap, 4 bolts each.
All in all, about 12 hours of work from pulling in to driving out. Book is 18ish, so not bad.
when i had some work vans one of the engines went belly up. brought it to the GMC dealer. they called around midnight and said it needed a new engine. told them ok . i called them at 8 am in the morning asking about it and they said it was done. iirc they charged about 2k for the labor to R&R it . this was about 15 years ago. guess if your quick you can make so bucks
I would assume it is a fairly straightforward money maker job. Labour intensive, and a decent markup on the engine.
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
She's a runner! I did have one minor hiccup... The harness for the AFM solenoids got pinched between the bell housing and engine on install. I didn't notice until it was too late. Ugh. A few minutes with a soldering iron and she was good as new. Sealed with marine heat shrink, I'm not too worried about it.
Everything else went smooth. The motor dropped in without a hitch and lined up right away. I did run into a couple issues with the crate motor:
The oil pan was provisioned for an oil level sensor, which this truck doesn't have. The documents that came with the engine mention this, and tell you to swap oil pans. Nuts to that! I'm not breaking open a brand new engine. Luckily, it's just an M20x1.5 thread which happens to be the same as a Subaru drain plug. Grabbed one from stock and slapped some thread sealant on it. Good enough.
The valve covers on the crate motor were wrong. The PCV hoses we're designed to be push-on, versus the quick connects that this truck had. Easy to swap, 4 bolts each.
All in all, about 12 hours of work from pulling in to driving out. Book is 18ish, so not bad.
when i had some work vans one of the engines went belly up. brought it to the GMC dealer. they called around midnight and said it needed a new engine. told them ok . i called them at 8 am in the morning asking about it and they said it was done. iirc they charged about 2k for the labor to R&R it . this was about 15 years ago. guess if your quick you can make so bucks
I would assume it is a fairly straightforward money maker job. Labour intensive, and a decent markup on the engine.
OP, not sure if you took care of this on the previous engine but earlier than 2010 engines should get the updated driver side valve cover with the increased baffling. If you still have the 09 cover, you may want to get the revised one.
Originally Posted By: NYEngineer
OP, not sure if you took care of this on the previous engine but earlier than 2010 engines should get the updated driver side valve cover with the increased baffling. If you still have the 09 cover, you may want to get the revised one.
I didn't replace the cover, I'm not sure if it had the update or not. Since GM took care of most of them it never even crossed my mind.
OP, not sure if you took care of this on the previous engine but earlier than 2010 engines should get the updated driver side valve cover with the increased baffling. If you still have the 09 cover, you may want to get the revised one.
I didn't replace the cover, I'm not sure if it had the update or not. Since GM took care of most of them it never even crossed my mind.
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