Why?
I wonder how bad the fuel economy on a 1994 Volvo something is?
I wonder how bad the fuel economy on a 1994 Volvo something is?
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Thinking of buying...1994 Volvo wagon as a DD
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Sam_Julier
$50 Site Donor 2024
They are simple cars. I've owned many of them. Change all fluids and filters.. Replace the engine mounts, utility bushings and belts. Change out the fuel pump relay and OD relay if needed. Lube the hood hinges. Clean the throttle body. Check fuel pressure regulator. Simple stuff that's fun to do. You could be driving this for a long, long time.
Sam
Sam
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I had a 940 turbo wagon.
The AC controls died but the AC was still capable. I hotwired it to the power antenna switch. That had been broken off so I stuffed an old boom-box antenna in its hole and manually raised and lowered it.
Came with a set of hankook i-pikes, studded, and summer tires too.
230k miles.
Turbo. 15-18 MPG. Liked premium fuel better.
Locking rear diff (as it was a turbo). When it let go on black ice, holy moley! Instant sideways-ness. Pucker up! A non-locking diff would have broken only one wheel lose.
The trans still shifted very nicely. Lost overdrive but it was the solenoid-- hogged it out with a dremel and was then unable to manually drop to 3rd, no loss.
Fuel injection relay died, but I soldered it back together. Just fatigue on the solder traces. Carry a spare. I got it running with a matchbook holding the contacts together.
We would still like to hear if it's a non turbo, turbo, or early FWD 850.
The AC controls died but the AC was still capable. I hotwired it to the power antenna switch. That had been broken off so I stuffed an old boom-box antenna in its hole and manually raised and lowered it.
Came with a set of hankook i-pikes, studded, and summer tires too.
230k miles.
Turbo. 15-18 MPG. Liked premium fuel better.
Locking rear diff (as it was a turbo). When it let go on black ice, holy moley! Instant sideways-ness. Pucker up! A non-locking diff would have broken only one wheel lose.
The trans still shifted very nicely. Lost overdrive but it was the solenoid-- hogged it out with a dremel and was then unable to manually drop to 3rd, no loss.
Fuel injection relay died, but I soldered it back together. Just fatigue on the solder traces. Carry a spare. I got it running with a matchbook holding the contacts together.
We would still like to hear if it's a non turbo, turbo, or early FWD 850.
Perfect LS swap recipient.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Nice price but it won't hold up in an accident against a vehicle with 25 years' more technology, even if it is a Volvo. People frequently don't consider crashworthiness
I don't plan to crash ... I'd take a '54 Chevy over most of what's on offer today. Tonnage matters
You can plan as much as you want. The teenager right behind you is planning to text and drive. The guy coming across the intersection is planning to make it home without a DUI. If you encounter either of those people in a '54 Chevy, you're dead or at least severely crippled. Same goes for a Focus with rotted-out rockers (as was suggested earlier in the thread).
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Nice price but it won't hold up in an accident against a vehicle with 25 years' more technology, even if it is a Volvo. People frequently don't consider crashworthiness
I don't plan to crash ... I'd take a '54 Chevy over most of what's on offer today. Tonnage matters
You can plan as much as you want. The teenager right behind you is planning to text and drive. The guy coming across the intersection is planning to make it home without a DUI. If you encounter either of those people in a '54 Chevy, you're dead or at least severely crippled. Same goes for a Focus with rotted-out rockers (as was suggested earlier in the thread).
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
^ No kidding. Volvo's rep for safety all those years wasn't fake news. DD a '54 Chevy? Can't imagine being that hard up.
Awesome. Thanks guys!!!
JHZR2
Staff member
$800?!?
You could scrap it for $300.
IRS says driving is what? 53c/mile or something?
Do the calculations given mpgs and insurance on how many miles this thing has to take you to to break even on purchase price. I suspect not many.
Id give it a shot if test driving indicates no issues, given the price. Especially if you could cut a hundred or two off the price.
You could scrap it for $300.
IRS says driving is what? 53c/mile or something?
Do the calculations given mpgs and insurance on how many miles this thing has to take you to to break even on purchase price. I suspect not many.
Id give it a shot if test driving indicates no issues, given the price. Especially if you could cut a hundred or two off the price.
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Although if you can find a Mazda for $800 jump on it.
Especially a rust free one like the Volvo being discussed here.
Although if you can find a Mazda for $800 jump on it.
Especially a rust free one like the Volvo being discussed here.
I paid $500 for my '96 850 T5 wagon a couple of years ago, and spent 3 times that on it now. Things like tyres, batteries and brakes need to done on almost any car you buy at some stage - I fitted a battery when I got it, tyres a few months ago and haven't done any brake work yet. I got it needing a radiator, and did a few other things to get it road worthy.
Pros - comfort, power, economy and load space.
Cons - it has a factory sports suspension package, I find the ride harsh and a bit low, but comes into it's own when pushed hard. Cheap and nasty hard plastic, noisy, breaks easily and just cheapens the quality. Some things are easy to work on, others not so, and the turbo doesn't help there, not much space around the engine.
I'm pretty pleased with it compared to what I would've got with the same money on another more popular brand. People are scared of Euro cars when something goes wrong, and the prices plummet. I wouldn't want a 21st Century Euro car, but 20th Century they were solid, reliable and very soundly engineered.
Pros - comfort, power, economy and load space.
Cons - it has a factory sports suspension package, I find the ride harsh and a bit low, but comes into it's own when pushed hard. Cheap and nasty hard plastic, noisy, breaks easily and just cheapens the quality. Some things are easy to work on, others not so, and the turbo doesn't help there, not much space around the engine.
I'm pretty pleased with it compared to what I would've got with the same money on another more popular brand. People are scared of Euro cars when something goes wrong, and the prices plummet. I wouldn't want a 21st Century Euro car, but 20th Century they were solid, reliable and very soundly engineered.
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